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Summit Success Rates by Peak — Global Summit Guide
Data-Driven Expedition Intelligence

Summit Success Rates
By Peak

Real statistics aggregated from park authority reports, guiding company disclosures, and mountaineering databases — so you can plan around facts, not folklore.

Peaks covered  24
Data sources  11
Last updated  Jan 2026
Years of data  1990–2025
Now viewing: Aconcagua — Highest peak in the Western Hemisphere. Data covers all permit-holding attempts 1990–2025. Source methodology is explained in each section below.
01 — Overview

Why Success Rates Matter

#overview

Most guidebooks quote a single number — “Aconcagua has a 40% success rate” — without context. That figure means very different things depending on when you go, which route you take, and whether you are guided. This page disaggregates the data so you can see what actually drives outcomes.

How to read these numbers: Success is defined as reaching the summit. Turnaround decisions include weather holds, illness, and voluntary retreats. Rescue incidents are tracked separately. All rates are computed from climbers who obtained a legal permit.

Overall success rate
39%
All routes, all months, all experience levels
Guided success rate
51%
Commercial guiding programs only
Rescue rate
1 in 68
Climbers requiring rescue per season
Annual permit holders
~3,400
Peak season (Nov–Feb)
Data sources
Aconcagua Provincial Park Authority American Alpine Club Annual Report Grajales Expeditions 2010–2025 Wilderness Medical Society

02 — Timing

Success Rate by Month

#timing

The summit window on Aconcagua is narrow. January sits at the statistical peak, but December offers comparable success with significantly fewer crowds.

Summit success rate by month · Aconcagua · 2015–2025 average

October and March are transition months with fewer than 80 recorded attempts.

The January–February window accounts for 68% of all summit attempts. Climbers starting their summit bid in the first two weeks of January show a 7-point higher success rate than those departing in the final two weeks.


03 — Route

Success Rate by Route

#routes

Route selection is the single biggest variable under a climber’s control. The Normal Route’s high rate reflects both its lower technical demands and the greater support infrastructure along it.

Normal Route (Northwest)47%
Non-technical. 3 established high camps. Most rescue infrastructure. 18–20 days typical.
Vacas Valley / Polish Direct38%
Less crowded than the Normal Route. Similar technical grade. Slightly longer approach.
Polish Glacier Traverse31%
Moderate technical. Combines Normal Route descent with glacier ascent. Higher objective risk.
South Face (Messner Route)18%
Highly technical. Expert only. Limited rescue access. Extreme weather exposure.

04 — Guide Status

Guided vs. Independent

#guided

Guided climbers summit at a meaningfully higher rate. Guides enforce acclimatization schedules, make conservative turnaround calls, and carry emergency equipment. Independent climbers who follow equivalent protocols show comparable outcomes.

higher rate
Guided
51%
Commercial guiding programs, all routes
  • Enforced rest days reduce AMS incidents ~30%
  • Real-time guide judgment on weather windows
  • Rescue coordination support included
  • Typical cost: $5,000–$11,000 all-in
Independent
29%
Permit holders with no guiding contract
  • Flexible itinerary — but often misused
  • Higher rate of premature summit bids
  • Typical cost: $2,500–$4,000 all-in
  • Evacuation costs not covered — insurance critical

05 — Experience Level

Success Rate by Experience Level

#experience

Experience level is self-reported on permit applications. Numbers below cover Normal Route attempts only to control for route selection bias.

First high-altitude attempt (no prior >5,000m)
24%
No prior data on personal acclimatization response. Altitude naivety is the primary factor.
Prior summit 5,000–5,999m (e.g. Kilimanjaro)
38%
A meaningful step up. Most show a known acclimatization profile, aiding scheduling decisions.
Prior summit 6,000–6,499m (e.g. Denali)
52%
Strong predictor of success. Highest discipline in acclimatization scheduling.
Repeated high-altitude climber (prior >6,500m)
61%
Well-established personal physiology baseline. Still not guaranteed.

06 — Turnarounds

Most Common Turnaround Reasons

#turnarounds

From park ranger incident logs and permit exit interviews, 2015–2025, Normal Route.

01
Altitude illness (AMS / HACE / HAPE)
Premature ascent schedule; inadequate rest days; failure to recognize early symptoms
38%
02
Weather — Viento Blanco & summit storms
Viento Blanco events force turnaround from Colera camp; early-season instability in November
27%
03
Exhaustion / insufficient fitness
Inability to maintain pace above 6,000m; inadequate pre-climb cardiovascular preparation
18%
04
Cold injury (frostbite, hypothermia)
Inadequate layering; windchill on the summit pyramid; equipment failure at extreme temperatures
9%
05
Voluntary / personal decision
Partner illness, permit expiry, personal assessment of unacceptable risk
8%

07 — Safety

Rescue Incident Frequency

#rescue

Aconcagua has a well-developed rescue infrastructure with helicopter access to 6,000m in favorable conditions. High-altitude rescue insurance is strongly advised.

1 in 68
Climbers requiring assisted rescue per season
1 in 312
Fatality rate among all permit holders
$8,500
Average helicopter evacuation cost without insurance

Rescue incidents are 2.4× higher among independent climbers than guided parties, and 3.1× higher among first-time high-altitude climbers.


08 — Climate & Trend

Historical Success Rate Trend (1995–2025)

#trend

A slow but measurable decline in overall success rates since 2010, correlating with shorter reliable weather windows, glacier recession on the Polish Glacier route, and increased permit holder volume.

Annual summit success rate · 2000–2025
60% 50% 40% 30% Peak: ~52% (2004) Decline begins (2010) 1995 2004 2014 2025

The 5-year rolling average has declined from 46% (2005–2009) to 38% (2020–2024). Climate modelling suggests continued glacier recession through 2035.


09 — Planning

What These Numbers Mean for Your Planning

#planning

The four decisions most correlated with success

📅
Go in January, not February. January summit bids show the highest success rates across all data years. February has more unstable afternoon weather and accumulated fatigue in high camps.
Secure at least one 6,000m summit before Aconcagua. Climbers with a prior 6,000m summit succeed at twice the rate of altitude novices on this mountain.
🗓
Budget at least 20 days — not 14. Guides who achieve the highest rates build mandatory rest days at Nido de Condores (5,570m) that budget itineraries skip.
🧭
If going independent, mirror a guide’s acclimatization schedule. The guided/independent gap narrows significantly among independent climbers who follow structured protocols.