Everest: South Col vs North Ridge Route Comparison
The complete comparison of Everest’s two viable commercial routes — Nepal’s South Col (Southeast Ridge) and Tibet’s North Ridge (Northeast Ridge). Terrain, weather, camps, operators, costs, and the current 2026 situation with China’s restricted access. Written for climbers deciding which side to climb.
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on South Col
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use South Col
For most of Everest’s climbing history, the route debate was genuine — North Ridge climbers and South Col climbers defended their sides with real conviction. In 2026, the debate has been complicated by politics: China has restricted spring access to the Tibet side for the second consecutive year, concentrating almost all commercial traffic on Nepal’s South Col. This guide covers both routes honestly, for climbers planning current-year attempts and for those planning future years when access may reopen.
Route data reflects the Himalayan Database summit and fatality statistics through December 2025, Alan Arnette’s Everest 2026 coverage, operator publications from both sides, and pre-trip briefings from Alpine Ascents, IMG, Madison Mountaineering, and Chinese-permitted operators (Asian Trekking, Himalayan Experience, Seven Summit Treks) who have historically run Tibet-side expeditions. Weather data draws on Everest Base Camp meteorological records from both sides, and accident statistics come from the AAC’s Accidents in North American Climbing and international climbing publications. Fact-check date: April 19, 2026.
01 · The Two Routes at a Glance
Both routes are technically moderate by elite alpine standards. Both require the same altitude tolerance, the same gear, and the same overall commitment. What differs is the character of the climb — the specific hazards, the infrastructure, the crowds, and the decision points along the way.
South Col / Southeast Ridge
Starts from Kathmandu with a flight to Lukla, then an 8–10 day trek through Namche Bazaar and the Khumbu Valley to Everest Base Camp at 5,364 m. The climb proper begins with the Khumbu Icefall — a dynamic, crevassed glacier requiring fixed ladders and continuous maintenance by the Icefall Doctors. Above the icefall, the Western Cwm leads to Camp 2 (6,500 m), the Lhotse Face ascends to Camp 3 (7,200 m), and the South Col at 7,950 m is the launching point for the summit ridge.
Character: More crowded, better supported, warmer, with the Khumbu Icefall as the defining hazard. The most documented route on the mountain. Rescue access is practical through helicopter evacuation from Camp 2 and below.
North Ridge / Northeast Ridge
Starts with overland travel from Kathmandu or Lhasa to North Base Camp at 5,150 m (slightly lower than South BC). A drivable road reaches base camp, eliminating the approach trek. The climb proper crosses the East Rongbuk Glacier to Advanced Base Camp (6,492 m), ascends to the North Col at 7,000 m, and progresses up the North Ridge through three rock steps (the famous “Three Steps” at approximately 8,500–8,700 m) to the summit.
Character: Less crowded, harder rock sections, historically colder and windier, with road access to base camp. Rescue is logistically more complicated — no helicopter operations above Advanced Base Camp.
02 · Side-by-Side Factor Comparison
The dimensions that actually matter for route selection. This is the honest comparison climbers need before committing to one side or the other.
| Factor | South Col (Nepal) | North Ridge (Tibet) |
|---|---|---|
| Base Camp elevation | 5,364 m | 5,150 m |
| Approach | 8–10 day trek from Lukla | Drivable road to base camp |
| Defining hazard | Khumbu Icefall (dynamic glacier) | Exposure / weather / wind |
| Technical character | Mostly glacier travel, Lhotse Face ice | Mixed terrain, Three Steps rock sections |
| Summit day temperature | −25 °C to −40 °C | −35 °C to −45 °C typical |
| Summit day wind | Moderate (Cwm shelter below) | Higher (exposed Tibetan plateau) |
| Commercial traffic | Very high (85%+ of climbers) | Historically moderate, currently restricted |
| Helicopter rescue | Available to Camp 2 and below | Not available above ABC |
| Permit fee (2026) | $15,000 (Nepal government) | ~$15,000–$20,000 (bundled) |
| Total fatalities (historical) | ~57% of all Everest deaths | ~20% of all Everest deaths |
| 2026 access status | Open (normal spring season) | Closed (China spring restrictions) |
| Operator selection | Wide — Nepali + Western operators | Limited — mostly Chinese + select Western |
| Summit window | May 15–23 typical | May 18–28 typical |
| Duration | 55–70 days | 55–65 days (no icefall rotations) |
03 · Camp Structure on Each Side
The camp structure determines your daily rhythm, the altitude of each sleep, and how you progressively acclimatize. Both routes use 4 camps above base camp, but the altitudes and terrain between them differ meaningfully.
04 · The Defining Hazards of Each Side
Every Everest climb has hazards. But each route has a distinctive primary hazard that drives its specific risk profile.
South Col: the Khumbu Icefall
The Khumbu Icefall is the defining feature of the South Col route. A constantly-moving glacier broken into seracs, crevasses, and unstable ice towers, it must be traversed by every climber typically 4–8 times during the expedition (2 rotations + summit push + rest-day movement). The Icefall Doctors — a specialized Sherpa team — fix the route each season with ladders and ropes. The icefall has killed more people than any other single section of Everest, including the 2014 serac collapse that killed 16 Sherpa. In 2026, drones are increasingly being used to ferry ropes and ladders, reducing Sherpa exposure time.
Climbers moving through the icefall rotate before dawn to reach it when ice movement is minimal. Even so, objective hazard — hazard from the terrain itself, not climber error — is substantial. This risk cannot be eliminated; it can only be reduced through timing, speed, and route-finding.
North Ridge: exposure and cold
The North Ridge’s defining hazard is environmental exposure rather than objective glacier hazard. The route sits on open terrain without the Western Cwm’s shelter from jet stream winds. Summit-day temperatures routinely reach −40 °C or colder with sustained wind chill. The approach to the Three Steps crosses slabby rock sections that become dangerous when wind-loaded with snow. Frostbite rates on the North Ridge historically exceed South Col rates, particularly on summit-ridge descents when climbers are exhausted and protective layering is less actively managed.
The North Col itself is avalanche-prone in certain conditions, particularly after heavy winter snowfall. The 1922 British expedition’s fatalities on the North Col were the first climbing deaths on the mountain. Modern operators monitor snow conditions carefully, but the hazard remains.
Non-standard routes (West Ridge, Kangshung Face, Southwest Face) have produced 21% of all Everest deaths despite representing only 2% of ascents. The last new route was completed in 2009 by a Korean team on the Southwest Face. Commercial operators concentrate on the standard routes because infrastructure, rescue access, and well-understood hazards make them safer. Non-standard routes are for elite alpinists operating in teams of 2–4 with no commercial support — not for commercial climbers regardless of experience level.
05 · Weather Patterns on Both Sides
Everest’s weather is notoriously bimodal — brutal most of the year, briefly climbable in narrow windows. Both routes share the same overall weather patterns but experience them differently.
The summit window
Both routes target the pre-monsoon period of mid-to-late May when the jet stream briefly lifts off the summit before monsoon arrival. Summits on the South Col typically occur May 15–23; on the North Ridge, slightly later at May 18–28, though this varies annually. The window is driven by the same global weather patterns — a brief pause between winter’s jet stream and the monsoon’s arrival from the Bay of Bengal.
How each side experiences it
The South Col benefits from the Western Cwm’s natural shelter — once above the icefall, climbers are in a valley bounded by Nuptse, Lhotse, and Everest’s West Ridge. Winds are moderated until the South Col itself (7,950 m), where exposure returns. The summit ridge above the South Col is exposed but relatively short (about 5 hours from C4 to summit for fit climbers).
The North Ridge has no equivalent shelter. The approach to Advanced Base Camp and above crosses open Tibetan plateau terrain. Wind exposure is continuous from about 7,000 m upward, and the summit ridge is significantly longer and more exposed (6–8 hours from C3 to summit). When the jet stream is even marginal, the North Ridge becomes unclimbable before the South Col does.
Forecasting quality
Both routes benefit from modern forecasting services — typically ECMWF ensemble data interpreted by expedition meteorologists like Michael Fagin of West Coast Weather and Chris Tomer. Operators subscribe to these services and brief teams daily during the summit window period. The North Ridge has slightly less weather station coverage due to its geographic location, but the difference is marginal at the summit-decision level.
For general mountain weather principles see our Mountain Weather guide.
06 · Operators Per Side
Operator selection differs dramatically between the two sides. The South Col has a mature commercial guiding ecosystem; the North Ridge has historically had fewer commercial operators and currently has even fewer due to 2026 access restrictions.
South Col operator landscape
Essentially every major Everest operator offers South Col expeditions, spanning three tiers:
- Budget Nepali ($33K–$55K): 8K Expeditions, Elite Expeditions, Imagine Nepal, Pioneer, Seven Summit Treks, 14 Peaks, Asian Trekking
- Standard Western ($65K–$95K): Alpine Ascents International, International Mountain Guides (IMG), Madison Mountaineering, Mountain Professionals, Climbing the Seven Summits
- Premium signature ($130K–$230K): Furtenbach Adventures, specialized Western operators offering flash expeditions
North Ridge operator landscape
Historically, a smaller pool of operators have run North Ridge expeditions — notably Asian Trekking, Himalayan Experience (Himex, now sold), Summit Climb, and specialized Western outfits with Chinese operator partnerships. In 2026, with China’s restricted spring access, no commercial North Ridge expeditions are operating this spring season. Climbers who’ve paid deposits for 2026 Tibet-side trips have typically been offered transfers to the South Col or rollovers to future seasons.
When access reopens, historical North Ridge pricing tends to be slightly lower than equivalent South Col operators due to simpler logistics (no trek, no icefall infrastructure fees) but bundled Chinese permit costs often offset the savings. The operator diversity remains thinner than the South Col, limiting climber choice.
Alan Arnette’s 2026 analysis shows 23 of 26 Everest fatalities in 2023–2024 occurred on expeditions operating at or below the median price point. The safety-price correlation holds on both routes but is particularly pronounced on the South Col where the full budget-tier spectrum exists. On the North Ridge, operator selection is inherently more limited, which has both advantages (fewer under-resourced operators) and disadvantages (less competitive pricing, fewer options). See our cost breakdown for detailed operator comparison.
07 · The 2026 China Access Situation
Understanding the current Tibet-side closure is essential for anyone considering the North Ridge in 2026 or future years.
What happened
China has restricted climbing on Everest, Cho Oyu, and Shishapangma throughout spring 2026 — the second consecutive spring of significant restrictions. This builds on a pattern that began post-COVID in 2020 and has evolved through various access regimes since. The specific reasons cited by Chinese authorities have varied between seasons: pandemic-era health measures initially, then operational concerns, then regulatory review. The practical effect is the same: no commercial spring expeditions on the Tibet side.
What this means for 2026
Climbers who had planned Tibet-side 2026 climbs have mostly transferred to Nepal-side operators or rolled their deposits to future seasons. Operators with historical Tibet-side operations (Asian Trekking, select Western outfits) have redirected resources to other peaks or paused Tibet operations. The North Ridge traffic in 2026 is effectively zero for commercial climbers.
Future years
Access in autumn 2026 and spring 2027 remains uncertain. Historically, China has reopened access in seasons following restrictions, so the North Ridge option will likely return. But climbers planning future Tibet-side climbs should maintain flexibility — keep South Col as a backup, avoid making non-refundable commitments more than 6 months ahead, and monitor announcements from the Chinese Mountaineering Association.
For the current 2026 climbing season, the practical answer to “which side should I climb?rdquo; is the South Col, simply because it’s the only option operating. Future-year route selection becomes meaningful again when China reopens.
08 · The Decision Framework
For climbers evaluating routes in a year when both are accessible — which is likely again in future seasons — the decision comes down to what you value most.
The standard choice — fits most climbers
- First Everest attempt — more infrastructure, better rescue, more documented
- Want maximum operator choice — 15+ reputable operators at three price tiers
- Budget-sensitive — full price range from $33K to premium available
- Prioritize rescue access — helicopter evacuation to Camp 2
- Want the “classic” route — Hillary & Tenzing’s path, most documented in literature
- Value social aspects — team dynamics, base camp community, trek experience
The alternative — specific preferences required
- Prior Everest attempt from South — different experience of the same peak
- Dislike crowds — historically 15–20% of traffic vs. South Col
- Want to skip the icefall — road access to base camp, no objective glacier hazard
- Prefer rock technique — Three Steps rewards rock-climbing experience
- Tolerate higher cold exposure — summit-day conditions genuinely harsher
- Committed to Tibet-side experience — monasteries, Rongbuk Valley culture, overland approach
Critically, in 2026, the North Ridge option simply isn’t available. Climbers with preferences that align with the North Ridge should plan for future seasons, not force the choice when the option is closed. For current-season decisions, default to the South Col.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the difference between the South Col and North Ridge routes on Everest?
The South Col route (also called the Southeast Ridge) climbs Everest from Nepal, starting at Everest Base Camp (5,364 m) and passing through the Khumbu Icefall, Western Cwm, Lhotse Face, and South Col before reaching the summit via the Southeast Ridge. The North Ridge route (also called the Northeast Ridge) climbs from Tibet, starting at North Base Camp (5,150 m) and progressing through the North Col, North Ridge, and the Three Steps to the summit. The South Col is more crowded, features the dangerous Khumbu Icefall, but has better rescue infrastructure and warmer temperatures. The North Ridge has no icefall and fewer climbers, but is historically colder, windier, and has more technical rock sections above the North Col.
Which Everest route has more fatalities?
The South Col (Southeast Ridge) has more total fatalities in absolute numbers — it accounts for 57% of all Everest deaths despite being the standard commercial route. However, this reflects the much higher traffic on the South Col, not a higher per-climber fatality rate. The North Ridge historically produces fewer absolute deaths but a comparable per-attempt fatality rate, with different causes — more cold-related incidents and altitude illness above the Exit Cracks, fewer icefall deaths. Non-standard routes (West Ridge, Kangshung Face, Southwest Face) account for 21% of all Everest deaths despite representing only 2% of ascents, making them dramatically more dangerous per attempt.
Can you climb Everest from the China/Tibet side in 2026?
China has restricted climbing on Everest, Cho Oyu, and Shishapangma throughout spring 2026. As of April 2026, no commercial Tibet-side Everest expeditions are operating this season. This is the second consecutive spring of Chinese access restrictions, which began post-COVID and have expanded since 2022. Autumn 2026 access remains uncertain. Climbers committed to the North Ridge route should plan for future years when access reopens, or pivot to the South Col from Nepal. Chinese operators are still accepting deposits for future seasons but cannot guarantee permit issuance until the Chinese Mountaineering Association publishes its annual permit schedule.
Which Everest route is colder?
The North Ridge is generally colder than the South Col due to greater wind exposure and higher latitude. Summit-day temperatures on the North Ridge commonly reach -35°C to -45°C with significant wind chill, compared to -25°C to -40°C on the South Col. The Tibetan plateau’s open terrain allows jet stream winds to hit the North Ridge more directly, particularly above 7,500 m. Historically, the North Ridge has produced more frostbite casualties as a proportion of climbers. However, the South Col’s Khumbu Icefall and Western Cwm experience their own temperature extremes in early morning conditions, and the Lhotse Face can be brutally exposed. Both routes require full -40°C-rated expedition gear.
Which Everest route is more technical?
Both routes are technically moderate by elite alpine standards but have different technical characteristics. The South Col involves substantial glacier travel (Khumbu Icefall, Western Cwm crossings), steep ice climbing on the Lhotse Face (approximately 40-50 degree slopes with fixed ropes), and exposed ridge traversing from the South Col to the summit. The North Ridge has less glacier travel but more technical rock sections, particularly the Three Steps between 8,500-8,700 m where climbers navigate short rock bands with fixed ropes. Most climbers find the North Ridge’s rock sections slightly more technically demanding but find the South Col’s icefall more objectively hazardous. Neither route requires advanced technical climbing skills when fixed ropes are in place.
Which Everest route should I choose?
For 2026, choose the South Col (Nepal) unless you have specific reasons to prefer the North Ridge. China has restricted spring 2026 access to the Tibet side, making the South Col effectively the only commercial option this season. Even in years when both sides are accessible, the South Col is the standard choice for most climbers because: (1) more operators offer it with wider price ranges, (2) rescue infrastructure is more established, (3) weather forecasting is better documented, and (4) the Western guide community has more experience on the Nepal side. The North Ridge appeals to climbers who want fewer crowds, lower per-person permit costs (when accessible), and a genuinely different Everest experience — but this comes with tradeoffs in operator selection and rescue access.
Authoritative Sources & Further Reading
Route data reflects primary sources with the most current 2026 information:
- The Himalayan Database (HDB) — Summit, fatality, and route-specific statistics through December 2025
- Alan Arnette — Everest 2026 Coverage (alanarnette.com) — “Comparing the Routes of Everest: 2026 Edition” and current-season reporting
- Chinese Mountaineering Association (CMA) — Official source for Tibet-side permit issuance and access status
- Nepal Ministry of Culture, Tourism & Civil Aviation — South-side permit data and regulations
- American Alpine Club / American Alpine Journal — Historical route accident reporting
- Operator publications from both sides: Alpine Ascents International, International Mountain Guides, Madison Mountaineering, Climbing the Seven Summits, Furtenbach Adventures (South), Asian Trekking, Himalayan Experience, Summit Climb (historical North-side operators)
- Weather services: Michael Fagin (West Coast Weather) and Chris Tomer — commercial expedition forecasting
- Individual route documentation: Ed Viesturs, Reinhold Messner, Alex Honnold, Kenton Cool, Kami Rita Sherpa expedition reports
Related Guides Across the Hub
The most commonly referenced companion guides for Everest route planning — the anchor, cost deep-dive, and cross-cluster support guides.
Back to the Master Hub
This guide is one of 71 across 12 thematic clusters on Global Summit Guide. The master hub organizes every guide by experience tier, specific peak, skill area, and region.
The Two Standard Routes on Mount Everest
Mount Everest has two established commercial routes used for nearly all modern summit attempts. Both routes share the summit (8,849m) but approach from completely opposite sides of the mountain with fundamentally different logistics, costs, technical demands, and historical significance. Below is the comprehensive comparison.
| Feature | South Col Route (Nepal) | North Ridge Route (Tibet) |
|---|---|---|
| Country | Nepal | Tibet (China) |
| Also Known As | Southeast Ridge Route | North Col / Northeast Ridge Route |
| Climbing Permit | $11,000 (Nepal) | $9,500 (Tibet/China) |
| First Ascent | 29 May 1953 (Hillary & Tenzing) | 25 May 1960 (Wang Fu-Chou expedition) |
| Annual Summits (approximate) | ~500-660 (most years) | ~50-150 (most years) |
| Standard Commercial Cost (2026) | $45,000-$130,000 | $40,000-$100,000 |
| Expedition Duration | 50-65 days | 50-65 days |
| Base Camp Elevation | 5,364 m (South Side BC) | 5,150 m (North Side BC, Tibet) |
| Death Rate (historical) | ~1-1.5% | ~2-3% |
| Major Hazard | Khumbu Icefall (crevasse + serac falls) | North Ridge exposed climbing + 3 Steps |
| Climbing Season | Pre-monsoon April-May (primary) | Pre-monsoon April-May + Post-monsoon Sept-Oct |
| Helicopter Access | Available to Camp 2 (~6,400m) | Restricted; Chinese regulations limit |
| Base Camp Approach | Lukla flight + 7-10 day trek through Khumbu | Vehicle from Lhasa (~4-7 days driving) |
The South Col Route: Stage-by-Stage
The South Col Route is the most-climbed Everest route — approximately 70-80% of all Everest summits use this approach from Nepal. The route ascends through five established camps before the final summit push.
| Stage | Elevation | Distance / Key Feature |
|---|---|---|
| Lukla (start) | 2,860 m | Flight from Kathmandu; trekking start |
| Namche Bazaar | 3,440 m | 2-day trek; acclimatization stop |
| South Base Camp (BC) | 5,364 m | 7-10 day trek total; substantial base camp infrastructure |
| Khumbu Icefall | 5,500-5,900 m | The single most dangerous section; navigated multiple times during expedition |
| Camp 1 | 5,943 m | Above the Icefall; foot of Western Cwm |
| Western Cwm | 5,900-6,400 m | Glacier valley; substantial heat from sun reflection |
| Camp 2 (Advanced Base Camp) | 6,400 m | Major expedition hub; helicopter evacuation possible |
| Lhotse Face | 6,400-7,300 m | Steep snow/ice face climbed with fixed ropes |
| Camp 3 | 7,200 m | Tents pitched on Lhotse Face shelves |
| Geneva Spur | 7,800 m | Rock outcrop; traverse to South Col |
| Camp 4 (South Col) | 7,906 m | The “Death Zone” begins; summit push staging |
| The Balcony | 8,400 m | Summit-day rest point; oxygen change |
| South Summit | 8,749 m | False summit; the Hillary Step ahead |
| Hillary Step | 8,790 m | ~12m vertical rock step (since 2015 earthquake, less prominent) |
| SUMMIT | 8,849 m | The highest point on Earth |
The Khumbu Icefall — the South Col’s deadliest section. The Khumbu Icefall is the single most dangerous feature on the South Col Route — and arguably on Everest as a whole. The Icefall is a moving glacier traverse between South Base Camp (5,364m) and Camp 1 (5,943m) where the Khumbu Glacier descends from the Western Cwm. The section is characterized by: (1) Crevasses up to 200m deep that can open suddenly; (2) Seracs (unstable ice towers) up to 20m tall that can collapse without warning; (3) Constant glacier movement (the entire Icefall moves down approximately 1m per day); (4) Substantial exposure time — climbers must cross the Icefall multiple times during expedition (typically 6-10 crossings for acclimatization rotations); (5) Limited route options — the Icefall doctors fix a single route per season that changes as conditions evolve. The deadliest event in Everest history occurred here: the 18 April 2014 Khumbu Icefall avalanche killed 16 Sherpa climbers preparing the route for that year’s commercial season. Subsequent operations have moved expedition timing to start earlier in the season to minimize Icefall exposure, but the section remains the most dangerous on the route. Modern operators time Icefall crossings for early morning (1:00-5:00 AM) when ice is most stable. Many premium expeditions use helicopters to fly clients over the Icefall after the first acclimatization rotation — substantially reducing Icefall exposure.
The North Ridge Route: Stage-by-Stage
The North Ridge Route from Tibet is the less-commercial alternative used by approximately 20-30% of Everest summits. The route was the original Everest reconnaissance route (1921-1938 British expeditions) before Nepal opened access in the 1950s, and it offers substantially different climbing characteristics.
| Stage | Elevation | Distance / Key Feature |
|---|---|---|
| Lhasa (Tibet) | 3,656 m | Initial acclimatization staging |
| Rongbuk Monastery | 5,000 m | Vehicle access; world’s highest monastery |
| North Base Camp (Chinese BC) | 5,150 m | Tibet-side base camp; vehicle access possible |
| Interim Camp / Camp 1 | 5,800 m | Moraine and glacier travel |
| Advanced Base Camp (ABC) | 6,400 m | Major expedition staging; ~22km from BC |
| North Col Wall | 6,500-7,007 m | Steep snow/ice climb with fixed ropes |
| Camp 4 (North Col) | 7,007 m | Critical staging camp on the col |
| North Ridge proper | 7,007-7,800 m | Exposed ridge climbing; substantial wind |
| Camp 5 | 7,800 m | Higher camp; substantial exposure |
| Camp 6 (High Camp) | 8,300 m | Final pre-summit camp; Death Zone |
| The First Step | 8,564 m | First rock cliff band |
| The Second Step | 8,610 m | The famous vertical rock pitch with Chinese ladder |
| The Third Step | 8,710 m | Third rock cliff band |
| Summit Pyramid / Summit Snow Slope | 8,710-8,849 m | Final snow slope to summit |
| SUMMIT | 8,849 m | The highest point on Earth |
The Second Step and the Chinese Ladder — the North Ridge’s defining feature. The Second Step is a substantially vertical rock cliff band at 8,610m on the North Ridge — the most technically demanding section of the standard North Ridge Route. The step is approximately 5 meters of near-vertical rock climbing at extreme altitude. In 1924, George Mallory and Andrew Irvine disappeared on the North Ridge during their summit attempt; whether they climbed the Second Step before disappearing remains one of mountaineering’s great mysteries (Mallory’s body was found in 1999, but his camera with potential summit photographs has never been recovered). In 1975, the Chinese expedition installed an aluminum ladder on the Second Step to facilitate climbing — substantially reducing the technical difficulty. The ladder was replaced multiple times over subsequent decades. Modern climbers ascend the Second Step using fixed ropes and the ladder. Without the ladder, the Second Step would represent climbing of approximately 5.7-5.9 difficulty at 8,610m altitude — extraordinarily demanding. Some climbers (notably Conrad Anker, who attempted a “free” climb during the Mallory expedition documentary) have climbed the Second Step without using the ladder, demonstrating it’s possible but elite-level. The Chinese ladder is the most prominent piece of permanent mountaineering equipment on Mount Everest after the fixed ropes.
Cost Comparison: South Col vs North Ridge 2026
| Cost Component | South Col (Nepal) | North Ridge (Tibet) |
|---|---|---|
| Climbing permit | $11,000 | $9,500 |
| Liaison officer fees | $2,500-$5,000 (Nepali) | $3,000-$5,000 (Chinese) |
| Sherpa labor (per climber) | $15,000-$25,000 | $12,000-$22,000 (smaller workforce) |
| Yak/porter logistics | $2,000-$5,000 (from Lukla) | $1,500-$4,000 (less distance; vehicle access) |
| Helicopter contingency | $3,000-$15,000 (substantial access) | $2,000-$8,000 (restricted access) |
| Supplemental oxygen | $3,500-$6,500 | $3,500-$6,500 |
| Fixed rope contribution | $1,000-$2,000 | $800-$1,500 |
| Base camp logistics | $3,000-$8,000 | $2,500-$7,000 |
| Premium operator total (Tier 3) | $70K-$130K | $55K-$100K |
| Budget operator total (Tier 1-2) | $45K-$70K | $40K-$60K |
| Personal costs (gear, insurance, flights) | $15K-$30K | $15K-$30K |
| Realistic total budget | $60K-$160K | $55K-$130K |
Historical Context: Both Routes’ Significance
| Year | Event | Route |
|---|---|---|
| 1921-1938 | British reconnaissance expeditions establish North Ridge approach | North Ridge |
| 8 June 1924 | Mallory and Irvine disappear during summit attempt | North Ridge |
| 1950-1953 | Nepal opens to Western climbing; South Col route reconnoitered | South Col |
| 29 May 1953 | Hillary and Tenzing first ascent | South Col |
| 25 May 1960 | First North Ridge ascent (Chinese expedition: Wang Fu-Chou, Konbu, Chu Yin-Hua) | North Ridge |
| 1 May 1963 | First American ascent (James Whittaker via South Col) | South Col |
| 1975 | Chinese ladder installed on Second Step | North Ridge |
| 16 May 1975 | First woman to summit Everest (Junko Tabei via South Col) | South Col |
| 20 August 1980 | First solo Everest ascent (Reinhold Messner without oxygen via North Ridge) | North Ridge |
| 1996 | South Col disaster (8 deaths) | South Col |
| 1999 | Mallory’s body discovered on North Face | North Ridge |
| April 2014 | Khumbu Icefall avalanche (16 Sherpa deaths) | South Col |
| April 2015 | Nepal earthquake destroys Base Camp (22+ deaths) | South Col |
The “lost cameras” of Mallory and Irvine. The most enduring mystery in Mount Everest history is whether George Mallory and Andrew Irvine reached the summit on 8 June 1924 — 29 years before Hillary and Tenzing’s confirmed ascent. The pair were last seen alive by expedition member Noel Odell at approximately 1:00 PM going strong for the summit at approximately 8,500m. Mallory’s body was found in 1999 by an expedition specifically searching for him — preserved by the high-altitude cold for 75 years. However, Mallory’s camera (a Kodak Vest Pocket camera) was NOT with the body — and that camera potentially contains the photographic evidence of whether Mallory summited. Irvine’s body has never been found. Multiple subsequent expeditions have searched for the camera; the most recent known search was in 2024. The questions remain unresolved: Did Mallory and Irvine climb the Second Step (then unaided by the Chinese ladder)? Did they reach the summit before falling? Or did they turn back before reaching the top? If they did summit, then the first Everest ascent occurred 29 years before Hillary and Tenzing. Modern mountaineering historians remain divided. Mallory’s last words to Odell were reportedly “Climbing fast” — a quote that captures the indeterminate state of the mystery.
Which Route Should You Choose? Decision Framework
| Climber Profile | Recommended Route | Rationale |
|---|---|---|
| First-time Everest climber with substantial commercial budget | South Col (Nepal) | Most commercial support; established infrastructure; helicopter rescue |
| Experienced 8,000m climber wanting less crowded summit days | North Ridge (Tibet) | Substantially less crowded; ~50-150 summits vs 500-660 on South Col |
| Budget-conscious climber | North Ridge (Tibet) | Marginally cheaper; less helicopter cost included |
| Climber seeking historical significance | South Col (Nepal) | Hillary and Tenzing’s 1953 route; the iconic ascent |
| Climber seeking technical climbing | North Ridge (Tibet) | More sustained technical climbing on Steps and ridge |
| Climber wanting to avoid the Khumbu Icefall | North Ridge (Tibet) | Avoids the South Col’s most dangerous section entirely |
| Climber wanting post-monsoon summit | North Ridge (Tibet) | Allows September-October climbing window |
| Climber needing emergency evacuation access | South Col (Nepal) | Helicopter access to Camp 2 (6,400m); substantially better rescue capability |
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the difference between the South Col and North Ridge routes on Everest?
The two standard routes approach the summit from opposite sides. The South Col Route (Nepal) is climbed via the Khumbu Icefall, Western Cwm, Lhotse Face, and South Col before the southeast ridge — Hillary and Tenzing’s 1953 route. The North Ridge Route (Tibet) is climbed via the Rongbuk Glacier to the North Col (7,007m) then up the North Ridge, traversing the Northeast Ridge to the summit. Key differences: South Col uses the dangerous Khumbu Icefall but has substantial commercial support and helicopter rescue; North Ridge avoids the Icefall but has more exposed ridge climbing including the famous Three Steps. South Col is approximately $45K-$130K typical; North Ridge $40K-$100K.
Which is harder, the South Col or North Ridge route?
Both routes are extremely difficult. The North Ridge is generally considered slightly more technical with sustained climbing on exposed ridges and the three rock Steps (First Step 8,564m, Second Step 8,610m with the famous Chinese ladder, Third Step 8,710m). The South Col’s primary challenges are objective hazards (Khumbu Icefall crevasse and serac falls, Lhotse Face) rather than pure technical difficulty. Death rates: South Col approximately 1-1.5% historically; North Ridge approximately 2-3% historically (higher due to less commercial support and more exposed climbing). Both achievable for experienced commercial climbers with proper preparation.
Why do most climbers choose the South Col Route?
Approximately 70-80% of Everest summits use the South Col Route for practical reasons: (1) More commercial operators with substantial Nepal expedition industry; (2) Better helicopter rescue access (to Camp 2 at 6,400m); (3) Established infrastructure (Lukla airport, established teahouses, communications); (4) The “classic” route of Hillary and Tenzing’s 1953 first ascent; (5) Larger Sherpa workforce with substantial Khumbu region connections; (6) More reliable weather windows in the pre-monsoon season. The North Ridge Route advantages: avoids the Khumbu Icefall, slightly lower per-day cost, less crowded summit days, post-monsoon climbing window option.
What is the Second Step on Everest?
The Second Step is a substantially vertical rock cliff band at 8,610m on the North Ridge — the most technically demanding section of the standard North Ridge Route. Approximately 5 meters of near-vertical rock climbing at extreme altitude. In 1975, the Chinese expedition installed an aluminum ladder on the Second Step to facilitate climbing — substantially reducing the technical difficulty. Modern climbers ascend using fixed ropes and the ladder. Without the ladder, the Second Step would be approximately 5.7-5.9 difficulty at 8,610m altitude — extraordinarily demanding. The Second Step is the most prominent piece of permanent mountaineering equipment on Mount Everest after the fixed ropes, and central to the unresolved 1924 Mallory and Irvine mystery.
Can you climb Everest from both sides?
Yes — and a small number of climbers (approximately 15-20 total) have summited Everest from both routes during their mountaineering careers. The South Col Route from Nepal and the North Ridge Route from Tibet represent essentially separate expeditions — different countries, different permits, different logistics, different camps. Climbers wanting both ascents must commit to two separate Everest expeditions, typically separated by years. The “Everest Traverse” — going up one side and down the other in a single expedition — has been done only a handful of times (most notably the 1963 American expedition led by Norman Dyhrenfurth) and represents elite-level mountaineering achievement. Modern commercial expeditions on either route typically do not offer traverse options.
Is the North Ridge cheaper than the South Col?
Marginally — North Ridge expeditions typically cost $5K-$15K less than equivalent South Col expeditions. The Tibet permit ($9,500) is cheaper than the Nepal permit ($11,000); helicopter access is more restricted on the Tibet side reducing those costs; Sherpa labor is somewhat cheaper on the Tibet side due to smaller commercial workforce. However, the cost difference is smaller than many climbers expect because Tibet’s vehicle-access logistics add some costs that Nepal’s helicopter-access reduces. Tier-comparable totals: Tier 1 (budget) approximately $40K-$60K Tibet vs $45K-$70K Nepal; Tier 3 (premium) approximately $55K-$100K Tibet vs $70K-$130K Nepal. The savings are real but not dramatic enough alone to drive route selection — climbers should choose based on technical preference, support requirements, and timing rather than marginal cost differences.