Mount Hubbard — Alaska / Yukon

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Mount Hubbard East Ridge Expedition: Yakutat Access & Logistics

Mount Hubbard is one of the least-known 14,000-foot peaks in North America — a massive, glaciated summit on the Alaska/Yukon border in the heart of the Saint Elias Mountains, 8th highest in the United States, yet seldom climbed and rarely discussed outside specialist circles. Named in 1890 for Gardiner Greene Hubbard — the founder and first president of the National Geographic Society and father-in-law of Alexander Graham Bell — it sits within one of the most complex dual-park wilderness systems on the continent: Wrangell–St. Elias National Park on the American side and Kluane National Park and Reserve on the Canadian side.

The mountain is the highest point of a large massif including Mount Alverstone and Mount Kennedy — the former also first climbed in 1951 with Hubbard, the latter first climbed in 1965 by Robert F. Kennedy. The standard East Ridge route is described as relatively non-technical, accessed by charter flight from Yakutat, Alaska. Hubbard’s West Face rises a dramatic 7,500 feet above the Alverstone Glacier in less than 2 miles — one of the most impressive mountain walls in the Saint Elias Range.

At a Glance

Mount Hubbard Quick Facts

History & Name

Named for the National Geographic Society’s Founder

Gardiner Greene Hubbard — The Naming, 1890

Mount Hubbard was named in 1890 by Israel Cook Russell, a geologist conducting the first systematic USGS survey of the Saint Elias Mountains. Russell honored Gardiner Greene Hubbard (1822–1897), a Boston lawyer, entrepreneur, and visionary patron of science who served as the founder and first president of the National Geographic Society (established in 1888) and whose broader philanthropy helped co-sponsor Russell’s expedition. Hubbard was also the father-in-law of Alexander Graham Bell, inventor of the telephone, making him a pivotal figure in American scientific and technological history. The naming gave one of the most prominent and little-visited peaks in North America a connection to the institution whose magazine would later document the world’s most celebrated expeditions.

The Hubbard Glacier — Same Name, Different Feature

The famous Hubbard Glacier — the longest tidewater glacier in North America, stretching over 75 miles and actively advancing toward Disenchantment Bay near Yakutat — was named by the same expedition for the same person. Mount Hubbard and the Hubbard Glacier are geographically related: the glacier system flows in the vicinity of the mountain, though the peak feeds primarily the Lowell Glacier to the east and contributes ice toward the broader St. Elias glacial system. When visitors to Yakutat take a boat tour to the Hubbard Glacier, they are looking at a feature named in honor of the same man who gave the mountain its name.

First Ascent: July 26, 1951 — The Wood Expedition

The first ascent was accomplished on July 26, 1951 by Walter Wood, Peter Wood, Robert Bates, and Nicholas Clifford via the southeast side, using the eastern glacier route. Walter Wood was an American explorer and geographer associated with the Arctic Institute of North America who organized the expedition as part of broader glaciological and geophysical research in the Saint Elias Mountains. The same expedition also made the first ascent of Mount Alverstone — the massif’s second-highest summit — as part of a dual objective scientific and mountaineering campaign. Robert Bates was a veteran Himalayan climber who had participated in the legendary 1938 and 1953 American K2 expeditions alongside Charles Houston.

Mount Kennedy — Named for a President’s Brother

The third summit of the Hubbard massif, Mount Kennedy (13,943 ft), was first climbed in 1965 and has an unusual naming history: it was named posthumously for President John F. Kennedy after his 1963 assassination, and the first ascent team notably included Senator Robert F. Kennedy — making it one of the very few major mountain first ascents in North America led by a U.S. Senator.

Getting There

Yakutat, Alaska — Charter Flight Access

Mount Hubbard is accessed by charter flight from Yakutat, Alaska, a small coastal community approximately 58 miles southeast of the mountain. Yakutat is one of the most isolated communities in Alaska, accessible by jet service from Anchorage and Juneau via Alaska Airlines.

Complete Route Listing

All Trails & Routes on Mount Hubbard

Route Detail

East Ridge — Standard Route

Sample Itinerary

Typical 12-Day Expedition Timeline

Regulations & Fees

Dual-Park Permit Requirements

Mount Hubbard straddles two major protected areas with different permit requirements. This dual-park jurisdiction is one of the most distinctive planning considerations for any Hubbard expedition.

• Wrangell–St. Elias National Park (AK): No climbing permit fee required. File a trip itinerary with the park before departure. (907) 822-5234.
• Kluane National Park and Reserve (Yukon, Canada): If your route crosses the international border, a separate permit from Kluane NP is required. Contact: (867) 634-7250 or pc.gc.ca/kluane. Canadian border crossing documentation required.
• Trip itinerary filing with both parks is strongly recommended. No permanent SAR infrastructure exists on the mountain; itinerary filing is the primary mechanism for rescue coordination.

Seasonal Planning

Best Time to Climb Mount Hubbard

Equipment

Essential Gear for Mount Hubbard

Risk & Preparedness

Difficulty & Safety Notes

The East Ridge is rated Alaska Grade 2 — comparable to Mount Sanford, non-technical but serious. The primary challenges are the dual-park permit logistics, the remoteness of Yakutat access, Gulf of Alaska weather, and the two icefall sections on the lower glacier approach. The West Face is one of the most dramatic unclimbed (or very rarely attempted) major walls in the Saint Elias Range.

• Icefall navigation: Two icefall zones on the lower approach require careful route-finding. Conditions change year to year; contact the NPS for current beta before departure.
• Gulf of Alaska weather: The Yakutat area and Saint Elias coast receive severe maritime weather. Generous expedition scheduling and fly-out contingency are essential.
• Dual-park logistics: Research and confirm all permit requirements with both Wrangell–St. Elias NP and Kluane NP well in advance of travel.
• Remote rescue: No SAR infrastructure. Satellite phone and trip itinerary filing with both parks are the primary safety mechanisms.

Common Questions

Frequently Asked Questions About Mount Hubbard

Live Conditions

Map of Mount Hubbard & Live Weather

Summit location and live weather from Hubbard’s coordinates (60.320°N, 139.059°W). The map shows the summit and Yakutat, Alaska — the staging hub approximately 58 miles to the southeast. The Alaska/Yukon border runs through the massif.

Planning Summary

At-a-Glance Planning Snapshot

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