Mount Blackburn — Alaska - Global Summit Guide

Global Summit Guide · Parent Page

Ultimate Mount Blackburn Expedition Guide: Northwest Ridge, Access & Logistics

Mount Blackburn is the king of the Wrangell Mountains and one of the most remote and seldom-climbed major peaks in the United States. At 16,390 feet, it is the fifth-highest peak in the country, the second-highest volcano (behind only Mount Bona), and the highest point of the vast Wrangell Mountains — a range so massive that each of its principal peaks contains more ice and rock than entire mountain ranges elsewhere in North America.

Fewer than 50 parties have reached the summit in the past 30 years. The mountain’s proximity to the Gulf of Alaska gives it some of the worst weather conditions on the continent. Its glaciers — heavily crevassed, serac-laden, and ever-changing with climate — guard every approach. And yet for climbers prepared to commit to a 16-day Alaskan expedition, the Northwest Ridge offers a remarkable journey: bush plane access through the McCarthy & Kennicott corridor, a technically demanding knife-edged ridge at altitude, and 360-degree summit views across the largest national park in the United States.

This page covers the mountain’s extraordinary history, all climbing routes, McCarthy & Chitina access logistics, the unique bush-pilot approach, a 16-day expedition timeline, gear, guide services, and live summit weather.

At a Glance

Mount Blackburn Quick Facts

Category	Details
Elevation (West Peak)	16,390 ft / 4,996 m — true summit
East Peak (Kennedy Peak)	16,286 ft / 4,963 m — first peak climbed (1912)
Location	Wrangell Mountains, Wrangell–St. Elias National Park, ~20 miles ESE of McCarthy, Alaska
Ahtna Name	K’ats’i Tl’aadi
Mountain Type	Eroded shield volcano — oldest and most heavily eroded in the Wrangell Volcanic Field
USA Rank	5th highest peak in the United States
Volcano Rank	2nd highest volcano in the USA (behind Mount Bona)
Standard Route	Northwest (Japanese) Ridge via Nabesna Glacier — Alaska Grade 2+
Access	Bush plane to Nabesna Glacier LZ (~7,000–7,200 ft) via McCarthy / Chitina
Typical Expedition Length	16 days (guided); 14–18 days (independent)
Summit Parties (30 yrs)	Fewer than 50 — one of the least-visited major US peaks
Biggest Risks	Severe Gulf of Alaska weather, heavily crevassed glaciers, icefall serac exposure, knife-edged exposed ridge climbing at altitude, remote rescue
First Ascent (East Peak)	July 1912 — Dora Keen and George Handy — first Alaska peak summited by a woman
First Ascent (West Peak)	1958 — Keith Hart, William Hicks, Al Miller, Barry Morse
Administration	Wrangell–St. Elias National Park & Preserve (NPS) — no climbing permit required

Mountaineering History

Mount Blackburn — A History of Extraordinary Ascents

1912: Dora Keen & the First Ascent — A Legendary Story

The story of Mount Blackburn’s first ascent is one of the great tales in American mountaineering. In 1912, socialite and adventurer Dora Keen mounted an expedition to climb what was then believed to be the highest peak in the Wrangell Mountains. She recruited miners from the Kennecott Copper Mines as her climbing partners — men with no formal mountaineering training but extraordinary toughness — and organized a dog sled journey 30 miles up the Kennicott Glacier from the copper mine.

The team spent 30 days on the mountain, fighting brutal storms and navigating the heavily crevassed East Face icefall in what was then one of the most remote corners of Alaska. When they reached the summit of the East Peak (now called Kennedy Peak) at 16,286 ft, Keen became the first woman to summit an Alaskan peak — an achievement she wrote about in a famous article for the Saturday Evening Post titled “First up Mount Blackburn.”

“First up Mount Blackburn” — Dora Keen’s 1912 article in the Saturday Evening Post described one of the greatest mountaineering accomplishments of its era: a 30-day siege of the Kennicott Glacier icefall by a party of Kennecott copper miners led by a Boston socialite. At the time, the true summit elevation was unknown — Keen believed she had climbed the highest point in the Wrangells.

Dora Keen, Saturday Evening Post, 1912 — First ascent of an Alaskan peak by a woman

It was only later established that Keen had reached the East Peak (Kennedy Peak) — a few hundred feet lower than the true West Peak summit. The true summit (West Peak) was not climbed until 1958, when Keith Hart, William Hicks, Al Miller, and Barry Morse reached it via the Northwest Ridge — the same route used today.

1977: Gerry Roach & the First Massif Traverse

In 1977, Gerry Roach made the second ascent of the East Peak (Kennedy Peak) via the Southeast Ridge, and then traversed across to the West Peak — completing the first full traverse of the Blackburn massif. This traverse remains a serious undertaking rarely repeated.

Climate Change & the Lost Routes

The historic Kennicott Glacier routes used by Dora Keen in 1912 are no longer viable due to climate change. As global temperatures have increased, the Kennicott Glacier has retreated and thinned dramatically, causing the formerly negotiable icefalls on the south and east sides to become dangerously broken and impassable. The northwest approach via the Nabesna Glacier is now the only practical route for the standard climb.

Getting There

McCarthy, Chitina & Bush Plane Access

Mount Blackburn sits approximately 20 miles east-southeast of McCarthy, Alaska — a remote historic town at the end of a 60-mile unpaved road. The mountain is accessible exclusively by bush plane to the Nabesna Glacier on the north side. The McCarthy corridor provides the most dramatic and scenic staging approach of any Wrangells peak.

✈ Bush Plane & McCarthy Access — What to Know

Standard LZ: Nabesna Glacier at approximately 7,000–7,200 ft. Some parties fly to a higher LZ at ~9,500 ft (described by pilots as “cheating” as it skips the lower glacier approach). The standard program uses the 7,000 ft landing zone.
Primary air access hub: McCarthy / Kennicott area. Wrangell Mountain Air operates twice-daily scheduled service from Chitina to McCarthy (mid-May to mid-September). Charter bush planes (Wrangell Mountain Air, Tok Air Service) fly directly from McCarthy onto the Nabesna Glacier.
Secondary hub: Chitina or Gulkana Airport (Glennallen area) for parties approaching from the north side via alternate carriers.
McCarthy Road warning: The McCarthy Road is a 60-mile unpaved road from Chitina with sharp rocks, railroad grade crossings, and rough surface. It takes 2–3 hours each way. Do not drive a low-clearance vehicle. A spare tire is mandatory. The road is open year-round but can be extremely challenging in poor weather.
Kennicott River crossing: McCarthy is accessed by footbridge across the Kennicott River. Vehicles cannot drive directly to McCarthy. Park at the footbridge lot and walk or take the shuttle van.
Weather delays: Plan for 2–4+ day weather delays on both fly-in and fly-out. The Gulf of Alaska proximity means storms are frequent and unpredictable. Do not book tight return flights from Anchorage.

Driving from Anchorage to McCarthy

Take AK-1 (Glenn Highway) east from Anchorage to Glennallen (~189 miles, 4 hours).
At Glennallen, turn south onto AK-4 (Richardson Highway) toward Chitina.
At Chitina (~33 miles south), turn onto the McCarthy Road (AK-10). Note: the final bridge into Chitina has a low clearance — check your vehicle height.
Drive the McCarthy Road 60 miles to the Kennicott River footbridge parking lot (~2–3 hours). Park here. Walk across the footbridge into McCarthy.
Total Anchorage to McCarthy: approximately 7–8 hours driving.

The Kennecott Mines Historic Site

The staging town of McCarthy sits adjacent to the Kennecott National Historic Landmark — the remarkably preserved copper mining complex that powered Dora Keen’s 1912 expedition. The bright red mill buildings of Kennecott are visible from the footbridge and from much of the approach. For mountaineers with an interest in history, a visit to the Kennecott mines before or after your expedition adds a remarkable dimension — the same glacier that Keen’s party sledded up in 1912 is visible from the main mill building.

Route Breakdown

Mount Blackburn Climbing Routes

All current viable routes approach from the north via the Nabesna Glacier. Historic south-side routes via the Kennicott Glacier are no longer viable due to climate change. The Northwest Ridge is the overwhelmingly standard choice for all expedition parties.

1

Northwest (Japanese) Ridge — Standard Route

1958 First Ascent Line · Alaska Grade 2+ · Most Successful Commercial Route

Fly-in LZ

Nabesna Glacier (~7,000–7,200 ft)

Base Camp

Lower Nabesna (~7,000–8,000 ft)

Ridge Camp

NW Ridge (~9,800 ft)

High Camp

~13,500 ft

Summit Gain (from LZ)

~9,390 ft

Grade

Alaska Grade 2+

Expedition Length

14–16 days

Best Season

April – June

Fly-in and base camp: Bush plane lands at ~7,000–7,200 ft on the Nabesna Glacier. Establish base camp and begin organizing sleds and glacier equipment for carries. The Nabesna is the head of the longest interior valley glacier in North America — the scale and grandeur are immediately apparent from the landing zone.
Lower glacier and the icefall crux: The section between ~7,500 ft and 9,500 ft is the most dangerous part of the entire route. The icefall is laced with monster crevasses and is directly exposed to avalanche and serac fall from the 7,000 ft north face of Mount Blackburn above. This section must be moved through quickly and intelligently. Camp on the western edge of the basin at ~9,500 ft, away from the direct serac exposure line.
NW Ridge (9,800–13,000 ft) — the technical crux: Gain the NW Ridge at ~9,800 ft and establish Ridge Camp. The next 3,200 ft of climbing to 13,000 ft is the most technically demanding section. The ridge is knife-edged and heavily featured with steep snow, wind-loaded cornices, and exposed terrain requiring serious mountaineering judgment. This section contains a short passage of AI 2–3 (alpine ice grade 2–3) for a couple hundred feet. Fierce winds carve the ridge constantly. An intermediate camp is established in this zone.
High camp to summit (13,500–16,390 ft): Establish high camp at ~13,500 ft. The summit is still 3,000 ft and approximately 2 miles away — but the terrain above high camp is the easiest so far, with more gentle slopes leading to the broad summit. The summit push requires an excellent weather window and strong reserves of energy. The summit plateau provides spectacular 360-degree views across Wrangell–St. Elias, with views of the entire Wrangell volcanic field and, on exceptional days, the Gulf of Alaska and the Chugach Range.
Why this route: The Northwest Ridge is the route of the first ascent, the most successful commercial ascent line, and the only consistently practical approach in current glacier conditions. It is challenging enough to demand full Alaskan expedition preparation while offering a logical progression of camps and a memorable high-altitude ridge experience.

2

North Ridge Variant

From Same LZ · Heavier Snow / Wind Loading · Multiple Bergshrunds

Fly-in LZ

Nabesna Glacier (~7,000 ft)

Approach

Same as NW Ridge to ~7,500 ft

Character

Steep snow, wind-loaded, bergshrunds

Grade

Alaska Grade 2+ (harder variant)

Traffic

Less common than NW Ridge

Overview: The North Ridge is a variant from the same Nabesna Glacier landing zone. At approximately 7,500 ft the route diverges from the NW Ridge line and follows the North Ridge more directly toward the summit.
Harder terrain: The North Ridge is described as heavily wind-loaded with steep snow climbing and multiple bergshrunds and crevasses to navigate. It is generally considered a more committing and difficult variant than the NW Ridge without offering a significantly different summit experience.
Who chooses it: Parties with specific interest in the more direct north-facing terrain, or those who have already completed the NW Ridge and want a different experience. Most guided programs and first-time Blackburn expeditions use the NW Ridge.
Upper mountain: The two variants converge at approximately 12,500 ft and share the upper mountain to the summit. High camp at ~13,500 ft and summit logistics are identical to the NW Ridge route.

3

Southeast Ridge & East Peak (Kennedy Peak) Traverse

East Peak 1912 First Ascent Line Variation · Rarely Repeated · Advanced

East Peak Elevation

Kennedy Peak, 16,286 ft

Second Ascent

1977, Gerry Roach via SE Ridge

First Traverse

1977, Roach team (East to West Peak)

Grade

Advanced — Rarely Repeated

Phantom Ridge

Difficult crossing, serac exposure

East Peak (Kennedy Peak): The eastern summit at 16,286 ft was Dora Keen’s 1912 summit — believed at the time to be the highest point of Blackburn. Kennedy Peak has only been climbed a handful of times. It is a distinct objective requiring technical approach terrain on the SE Ridge.
Phantom Ridge: A variation known as Phantom Ridge, part of the East Ridge approach, adds significant complexity due to a difficult crossing and direct serac fall exposure. This feature deterred early exploration of the east side and continues to make the East Peak approach more committing than the Northwest Ridge.
Full massif traverse: Gerry Roach’s 1977 team made the first complete traverse of the Blackburn massif — ascending the East Peak via the Southeast Ridge and then traversing across to the West Peak before descending the Northwest Ridge. This traverse ranks as one of the most significant mountaineering achievements in Wrangell-St. Elias history and has been rarely attempted or repeated since.
Who this is for: Experienced alpinists with a specific interest in Blackburn’s full history and massif. Research thoroughly with Alaska specialists (St. Elias Alpine Guides can advise) before planning an East Peak or traverse attempt.

⚠

Historic South/East Routes (Kennicott Glacier) — No Longer Viable

Climate Change Has Closed These Routes — Documented for Historical Reference Only

Historic Route

Kennicott Glacier / East Face (1912 Keen)

Status

Impassable — do not attempt

Cause

Glacier thinning and icefall breakdown

Why these routes are closed: As global temperatures have increased, the Kennicott Glacier has retreated and thinned dramatically. The decrease in ice thickness has caused the formerly negotiable icefalls on the south and east faces to become dangerously fragmented and technically impassable. Routes that were challenging but viable in 1912 are now objectively hazardous to the point of being considered unreasonable.
South & Southwest Ridges: Attempts have been made via the southwesterly ridges and glaciers, but none have been successfully completed as far as documented records show. Severe weather, crevasses, avalanches, difficult snow and rock conditions, and impossible route situations have blocked all parties.
Historical significance: Dora Keen’s 1912 ascent of the East Face remains one of the great mountaineering exploits in Alaskan history specifically because those conditions no longer exist — she succeeded on a route that can no longer be repeated under any practical circumstances. Her achievement stands in sharper relief for it.
Do not attempt these routes. The Northwest Ridge (Nabesna side) is the only current viable approach for summit expeditions.

Sample Itinerary

Typical 16-Day Expedition Timeline

The following reflects St. Elias Alpine Guides’ standard program structure, which represents the most successful commercial approach to Blackburn. Weather delays are built into every section — this mountain’s Gulf of Alaska exposure means the question is not whether you’ll wait out a storm but when.

Days 1–2 — Anchorage to McCarthy

~7–8 hr drive · Glenn Hwy → Richardson Hwy → Chitina → McCarthy Road

Drive from Anchorage via the Glenn and Richardson Highways to Chitina, then the 60-mile McCarthy Road to the Kennicott River footbridge. Cross by foot into McCarthy. Overnight in McCarthy. Conduct gear check with guides. File trip itinerary with Wrangell–St. Elias NPS. Visit the Kennecott mines historic site — the same base used by Dora Keen in 1912.

Day 3 — Fly onto the Nabesna Glacier

Bush plane to LZ (~7,000–7,200 ft) · ~30–45 min flight

Weather permitting, fly with your bush pilot from McCarthy to the Nabesna Glacier landing zone. Spectacular aerial views of the Kennicott Glacier, McCarthy valley, and the massive south face of Blackburn. Establish base camp. Begin acclimatization and glacier skills review.

Days 4–6 — Lower Glacier and Icefall

7,500–9,500 ft · Most dangerous section

Navigate the crevassed lower glacier and push through the icefall section. This is the crux of the lower mountain — monster crevasses and direct exposure to serac fall from the 7,000 ft north face above. Move efficiently and camp on the safe western edge of the basin at ~9,500 ft. Typically 2–3 carries and weather days in this zone.

Days 7–10 — Northwest Ridge Technical Section

9,800–13,000 ft · Most technically demanding

Gain the NW Ridge at ~9,800 ft. The next 3,200 ft is the most demanding climbing: knife-edged exposed ridge, steep snow, wind-loaded cornices, AI 2–3 section. Establish Ridge Camp and intermediate camp in this zone. Fierce winds are common — tent anchoring is critical. Multiple days are built in here for weather, rest, and acclimatization.

Days 11–12 — High Camp

~13,500 ft · Summit staging

Move to high camp at ~13,500 ft. Rest and wait for a summit weather window. The terrain above high camp is the easiest on the mountain — broad, open slopes — but the altitude and exposure make this camp demanding. Check weather forecasts via satellite phone and coordinate with base camp and your bush pilot.

Days 13–14 — Summit Attempt

16,390 ft · Pre-dawn start from high camp

Summit push on the first available weather window. The 3,000 ft and ~2 miles from high camp to the West Peak summit require the best remaining reserves. Summit conditions are exposed and often extremely windy — turn around if conditions deteriorate. On success: 360-degree views across the entire Wrangell–St. Elias National Park. Descend to high camp or lower.

Days 15–16 — Descent & Fly-out

Return to LZ · Bush plane to McCarthy

Descend through all camps to the Nabesna Glacier LZ. Await weather window for bush plane pickup. Return to McCarthy and the McCarthy Road drive back to Chitina. Build 2–4 buffer days into your return plan — fly-out weather delays of multiple days are routine on this mountain. Do not commit to a tight Anchorage departure flight.

Regulations & Fees

Permits & Park Regulations

No Climbing Permit Required

Like all peaks in Wrangell–St. Elias National Park, Mount Blackburn requires no climbing permit and no permit fee. There are no climbing quotas, no registration fees, and no required check-ins beyond the strongly recommended voluntary trip itinerary filing.

Trip Itinerary — Strongly Recommended

File your trip itinerary with NPS at park headquarters or the nearest ranger station (Slana, Gulkana, Chitina, Yakutat). Include your expected return date, party size, route, and emergency contact information.
This is the mechanism for initiating rescue if a party fails to return. In Wrangell–St. Elias’s extreme remoteness, this paperwork could save your life.
Park headquarters: (907) 822-5234 — Wrangell–St. Elias National Park, Copper Center, Alaska.

Waste Management

Pack out all human waste from the glacier. Wag bags or similar systems are required for all glacier camping.
No established waste management infrastructure exists on the mountain — full pack-out is expected of all parties.

Resource	What It Covers	Contact / Link
Wrangell–St. Elias NP (NPS)	Park regulations, climbing conditions, trip itinerary filing	nps.gov/wrst → · (907) 822-5234
Wrangell Mountain Air	Scheduled flights Chitina↔McCarthy + bush plane charters to Nabesna Glacier	wrangellmountainair.com →
Tok Air Service	Bush plane access and route beta for Nabesna Glacier LZ	tokairservice.com →
Kennecott Visitor Center (NPS)	Kennecott mines site information; McCarthy area park resources	Located in McCarthy/Kennecott area · (907) 554-1105

Seasonal Planning

Best Time to Climb Mount Blackburn

Mount Blackburn’s proximity to the Gulf of Alaska makes it one of the most weather-challenged peaks in the range. Climbers should arrive mentally prepared for extended weather holds and build generous contingency into their schedules. Spring offers the most consolidated snow on the ridge, but cold temperatures are extreme. Early summer brings longer days and moderating temperatures at the cost of softening snow.

Season	Window	Pros	Watch-outs
Spring ★ Primary	April – May	Consolidated snow on the NW Ridge; firm conditions; crevasses well-bridged on lower glacier; coldest temperatures reduce objective hazard on upper face	Extreme cold at high camp (well below −30°F possible); shorter weather windows; fewer daylight hours early in window; bush pilot access may be limited in early April
Early Summer ★ Primary	June	Longest daylight (nearly 24 hrs at solstice); more frequent weather windows; comfortable temperatures at base camp; guided programs typically run May–June	Snow beginning to soften on lower glacier; crevasses opening; summit ridge can be wind-blasted even in good overall conditions; peak season for any guided parties (still extremely few)
Late Summer	July – August	Best overall weather statistics; warm base camp conditions	Lower glacier significantly more open and crevassed; upper glacier conditions deteriorating; fewer guide services operating; increased objective hazard from ice melt
Off Season	Sept – March	Not applicable for recreational expeditions	Extreme cold; near-total darkness (winter); severe storms; McCarthy Road access may be challenging; no guide programs; bush pilot availability very limited

Equipment

Essential Gear for Mount Blackburn

Blackburn requires the same full Alaskan expedition kit as Sanford, with additional emphasis on technical ridge equipment for the NW Ridge crux. The knife-edged, wind-scoured ridge demands confident crampon technique on steep snow and ice, and the AI 2–3 section requires ice climbing tools and protection. All gear must function in extreme cold (−40°F conditions possible).

⛰ High-Altitude Cold Weather

Expedition down suit (rated −40°F or lower)
Expedition sleeping bag (−30°F to −40°F rated)
Insulating mid-layers ×2–3
Heavyweight base layers ×2–3 sets
Expedition overmitts + liner gloves + emergency spare mitts
Balaclava + neoprene face protection
Expedition boots (crampon-compatible, −40°F rated)
Vapor barrier socks (for extreme cold)
High-UV glacier goggles (double-lens)

🠗 Technical Glacier & Ridge

12-point step-in crampons (front-pointing capable)
Ice axe (technical mountaineering, 55–65 cm)
Second ice tool (for AI 2–3 ridge section)
Climbing harness + helmet
Dynamic rope 50–60 m per team
Prussik cords ×3 + pulley + ice screws ×3–4
Snow pickets ×3–4 per team (tent anchors + route)
Sleds for lower glacier carries
Skis + skins (optional; excellent descent terrain)

⛺ Shelter & Camp

4-season expedition tent (60+ mph wind rating)
Snow saw + probe (build wind walls at exposed camps)
Insulated sleeping pad ×2 (full R-value for glacier)
Liquid-fuel expedition stove (canister gas fails in extreme cold)
Fuel: 1.5–2 liters per person per day
Large-capacity pots for snow melting
14–18 days of food including buffer days
Wag bags for human waste (mandatory pack-out)

📡 Communications & Safety

Satellite phone — essential (no cell coverage)
PLB or EPIRB emergency beacon
GPS device with full route loaded
USGS topo map (Gulkana A-1 NE quadrangle area)
Compass
Headlamp ×2 + lithium batteries (cold-resilient)
Sunscreen SPF 50+ + lip balm (glacier UV is intense)
Comprehensive first aid + frostbite treatment kit

Risk & Preparedness

Difficulty & Safety Notes

What kind of climb is Mount Blackburn?

The Northwest Ridge is rated Alaska Grade 2+ — one step above Mount Sanford’s Grade 2. The “+” reflects the increased technicality of the knife-edged exposed ridge between 9,800–13,000 ft, including a short AI 2–3 section, wind-loaded cornices, and sustained steep snow at altitude. St. Elias Alpine Guides lists examples of appropriate preparation as: Mount Bona, Mount Bear, the Casaval Ridge route on Mount Shasta, the West Buttress on Denali, or the Ptarmigan Ridge on Mount Rainier. This is not an appropriate first Alaskan high-altitude objective — prior experience on a comparable Alaskan peak is expected.

Primary hazards

The icefall crux (7,500–9,500 ft): Arguably the most objective hazard on the entire route. The section directly below the 7,000 ft north face is exposed to constant serac fall and avalanche from above. Move through efficiently during stable conditions. Do not camp in the exposure zone. This section has injured and killed climbers on other peaks with similar characteristics.
NW Ridge exposure (9,800–13,000 ft): Knife-edged, heavily corniced, and brutally wind-exposed. Crampon technique must be confident and automatic. A fall from the upper ridge has severe consequences. Team communication and belaying at the technical sections are non-negotiable.
Gulf of Alaska weather: Blackburn sits close enough to the Gulf that Pacific storm systems can arrive without warning and pin parties for 3–5 days at altitude. Shelter, fuel, and food reserves for extended storm holds are not optional planning — they are survival planning.
Extreme cold at high camp: High camp at 13,500 ft combined with Blackburn’s latitude and frequent wind makes this one of the coldest camping environments achievable in a North American expedition. Sleeping bag and tent ratings must be taken seriously.
Remote rescue: Helicopter rescue is weather-dependent and may take 24–72 hours or more to arrive in deteriorating conditions. Self-rescue capability and a satellite phone for coordination with the bush pilot are the primary safety mechanisms.

Disclaimer: This guide is educational and is not a substitute for qualified guiding, formal Alaskan mountaineering training, or official NPS safety guidance. Mount Blackburn is a serious high-altitude expedition peak with fewer than 50 documented summit parties in 30 years. Always file a trip itinerary with the park, carry a satellite communicator, and build substantial weather-delay contingency into your expedition provisions.

Guided Expeditions

Mount Blackburn Guide Services

Blackburn’s Grade 2+ technical demands, severe weather, and complex logistics make a guided expedition the recommended choice for the vast majority of parties. St. Elias Alpine Guides has the most successful commercial ascent record on this peak by a significant margin.

St. Elias Alpine Guides

McCarthy, AK — King of the Wrangells since 1978

St. Elias Alpine Guides has the most successful commercial ascent record on Mount Blackburn in history. Operating since 1978 from McCarthy — the staging town for the Blackburn approach — SEAG brings unmatched local knowledge of the Nabesna Glacier conditions, the NW Ridge crux, and bush pilot coordination. Their 16-day Blackburn expedition is the gold standard for this peak.

Visit Website →

International Mountain Guides (IMG)

Ashford, WA — Wrangells expeditions

IMG has organized Wrangell range expeditions including Blackburn as part of their Alaskan high-altitude program. Their expedition structure includes thorough pre-trip gear review, crevasse rescue training, and the kind of weather-conscious decision-making that this mountain demands of every party.

Visit Website →

Alaska Mountaineering School (AMS)

Talkeetna, AK — Alaska expeditions

Alaska Mountaineering School runs guided expeditions on major Alaskan peaks and offers the preparatory courses — particularly glacier travel, crevasse rescue, and high-altitude cold-weather camping — that form the essential foundation for a Blackburn attempt.

Visit Website →

Common Questions

Frequently Asked Questions About Mount Blackburn

Both are major Wrangells peaks without a climbing permit requirement, accessed exclusively by bush plane. The key differences: Blackburn is 153 ft higher (16,390 vs 16,237 ft), rated Alaska Grade 2+ vs Sanford’s Grade 2, and requires significantly more technical skill on the exposed knife-edged NW Ridge. The icefall crux on Blackburn is more objectively hazardous than anything on the Sanford North Ramp. Sanford is widely described as “the perfect first Alaskan high-altitude summit” while Blackburn demands you already have that kind of experience. Blackburn is also accessed from the McCarthy corridor rather than Glennallen.

Dora Keen (1871–1963) was a Boston socialite and adventurer who led the first ascent of the East Peak (Kennedy Peak) of Mount Blackburn on July 1, 1912. She recruited miners from the Kennecott copper mines, organized a 30-day expedition that included a dog-sled journey 30 miles up the Kennicott Glacier, and made the summit in conditions that would be considered extreme even today. Her ascent made her the first woman to summit an Alaskan peak. She wrote about it in the Saturday Evening Post and became one of the most celebrated mountaineers in America at the time. The routes she used are no longer viable due to climate change, making her achievement even more remarkable in hindsight.

No. Wrangell–St. Elias National Park requires no climbing permit and charges no climbing fee for any peak in the park, including Mount Blackburn. Filing a voluntary trip itinerary with the park before departure is strongly encouraged — this is the mechanism for initiating rescue if your party does not return as planned. Contact the park at (907) 822-5234.

Several factors: the extreme remoteness of the McCarthy / Wrangell region (a 7–8 hour drive from Anchorage followed by bush plane access), the severe Gulf of Alaska weather that frequently denies summit windows, the Alaska Grade 2+ technical demands that limit the eligible pool of climbers, a 16-day expedition commitment, and the relative lack of media attention compared to Denali. Unlike Denali’s heavily publicized and permit-structured system, Blackburn has no permit requirement and no established infrastructure — which actually reduces its visibility. For mountaineers who do seek it out, the solitude is profound.

It is possible but not recommended. The McCarthy Road is 60 miles of unpaved gravel and former railroad grade with sharp rocks, uneven surface, and no services. Low-clearance vehicles risk tire damage or worse. Most visitors use a high-clearance vehicle and carry a spare tire. The road takes 2–3 hours each way depending on conditions and is drivable in summer but can be rough after rain. Check road conditions with the park before driving. Many guided programs arrange shuttle transportation or advise on rental vehicles.

St. Elias Alpine Guides requires: several steep mountaineering climbs involving roped glacier travel, extended winter snow camping, and extensive crampon and ice axe use in exposed locations. Examples they cite include Mount Bona, Mount Bear, the Casaval Ridge on Mount Shasta, the West Buttress on Denali, or the Ptarmigan Ridge on Mount Rainier. Familiarity with climbing knots, rope handling, and basic belaying is required. The Grade 2+ NW Ridge crux with AI 2–3 sections means ice climbing skills are an asset, not a bonus. Blackburn should not be a first Alaskan expedition.

Yes — the Nabesna Glacier and the upper mountain provide substantial ski terrain for parties with the ability to carry skis through the expedition. The lower glacier approach and the North Ramp above the icefall are particularly suited to ski descent. However, the technical NW Ridge crux section is not ski terrain — boots, crampons, and ice tools are required through the 9,800–13,000 ft section. Ski mountaineers typically carry skis for use on the broader glacier sections and transition to boot travel for the ridge. Discuss with your guide service whether a ski-capable program fits your team’s skills.

Live Conditions

Map of Mount Blackburn & Live Weather

Summit location, staging hub, and live weather from Blackburn’s coordinates (61.732°N, 143.437°W). The map shows the summit and McCarthy, Alaska — the staging town for bush plane access to the Nabesna Glacier. The Kennicott mines are 5 miles from McCarthy; the mountain is approximately 20 miles ESE of both.

Mount Blackburn — Summit Conditions

16,390 ft / 4,996 m · Live from summit coordinates

Loading weather…

How to Use This Map

Blue pin = Mount Blackburn West Peak (16,390 ft, true summit). Green pin = McCarthy, Alaska, the staging hub for the Blackburn expedition approach. From McCarthy, bush planes (Wrangell Mountain Air) fly to the Nabesna Glacier LZ on the north side of the mountain at ~7,000–7,200 ft. No road, trail, or footpath connects McCarthy to the mountain — all access is by air.

Planning Summary

At-a-Glance Planning Snapshot

Mountain	Mount Blackburn (West Peak — true summit)
Elevation	16,390 ft / 4,996 m
Location	Wrangell Mountains, Wrangell–St. Elias NP, Alaska
Mountain Type	Eroded shield volcano — Wrangell Volcanic Field
USA Rank	5th highest peak (2nd highest volcano)
Access	Bush plane only from McCarthy/Chitina to Nabesna Glacier LZ (~7,000 ft)
Standard Route	Northwest (Japanese) Ridge (Alaska Grade 2+)
Expedition Length	16 days (guided); plan 14–18 days for weather contingency
Best Season	April – June
Required Skills	Glacier travel, crevasse rescue, steep snow, AI 2–3 ice climbing, knife-edge ridge, high-altitude cold-weather camping
Climbing Permit	None required — Wrangell–St. Elias NP is permit-free
Trip Itinerary	Strongly recommended — file with NPS (907) 822-5234
Guide Recommended	Yes — St. Elias Alpine Guides has the most successful Blackburn record
Historic Routes	Kennicott Glacier / east and south routes are no longer viable (climate change)
Primary Hazards	Icefall serac/avalanche exposure, knife-edged ridge, Gulf of Alaska storms, extreme cold, remote rescue

Continue Exploring