Global Summit Guide · Sangre de Cristo Range · Colorado, USA
Crestone Peak — Colorado
Complete guide: South Face Red Gully standard route, Peak-to-Needle Traverse, Ellingwood Arête & all routes — the last 14er climbed in Colorado, the remote Sangre de Cristos, and the expedition of 1916 that may have produced the first belayed rock climbs in American history.
Global Summit Guide · Parent Page
Ultimate Crestone Peak Guide: Red Gully Route, Traverse & Full Expedition Logistics
Crestone Peak is the highest summit of the Crestones — a cluster of jagged, remote fourteeners in the Sangre de Cristo Range of south-central Colorado — and the 7th highest summit in the Rocky Mountains at 14,297 ft (4,358 m). It rises 7,000 feet above the San Luis Valley to the west, dominating a skyline that has inspired and humbled climbers since the earliest exploration of Colorado’s high country.
The Crestones were the last group of Colorado fourteeners to be climbed. On July 24, 1916, Albert Ellingwood and Eleanor Davis stood on the summit of Crestone Peak via the North Arête — and then continued across the connecting ridge to make the first ascent of Crestone Needle the same afternoon, completing the conquest of every 14,000-foot peak in Colorado. Climbing historian Chris Jones later described Ellingwood’s 1916 work in the Crestones as “probably the first rock climbs in the United States where a conscious effort was made to belay.” Nine years later, Ellingwood and Davis returned to establish the Ellingwood Arête on Crestone Needle (III, 5.7) — now a 50 Classic Climbs of North America route.
Today, the standard South Face route via the Red Gully is one of the finest Class 3 summit routes in Colorado: 1,700 feet of scrambling on remarkably solid conglomerate rock that is unusual for a Sangre de Cristo peak. The Peak-to-Needle Traverse is one of Colorado’s four classic 14er traverses — a committing Class 4 ridge linking two great summits above the South Colony Lakes. The Crestones remain one of the most remote and logistically serious 14er groups in the state, requiring a long road approach from Westcliffe and a committed multi-day effort.
At a Glance
Crestone Peak Quick Facts
| Category | Details |
|---|---|
| Elevation | 14,297 ft / 4,358 m |
| Location | Sangre de Cristo Wilderness, Rio Grande NF, Saguache County, CO — 5 miles east of the town of Crestone |
| Range | Sangre de Cristo Range — highest summits |
| Rocky Mountain Rank | 7th highest summit in the Rocky Mountains |
| San Luis Valley Relief | Rises 7,000 ft above the San Luis Valley to the west |
| Historical Distinction | Part of the last group of Colorado 14ers climbed (1916) — Crestones were the last frontier of Colorado 14er exploration |
| The Crestones Group | Crestone Peak, Crestone Needle, Kit Carson Peak, Challenger Point, Humboldt Peak, Columbia Point |
| Standard Route | South Face / Red Gully (Class 3) via South Colony Lakes → Broken Hand Pass → Cottonwood Lake |
| The Red Gully | Definitive feature of the standard route — remarkably solid conglomerate rock — 1,700 ft of Class 3 scrambling |
| Access | South Colony Lakes TH (9,900 ft gate, 2009) from Westcliffe, CO via CO-69 & South Colony Road (FS-120) |
| Overnight | 2-day strongly recommended — camp at South Colony Lakes or Cottonwood Lake |
| Permit | No permit required (Sangre de Cristo Wilderness — self-issue, free) |
| First Ascent | July 24, 1916 — Albert Ellingwood, Eleanor Davis & Bee Rogers via North Arête |
| Ellingwood Arête (on Needle) | August 1925 — Ellingwood & Davis — III, 5.7 — 50 Classic Climbs of North America |
| Peak-to-Needle Traverse | One of Colorado’s four classic 14er traverses — Class 4 lower, technical upper |
History & First Ascent
The Last 14er — Ellingwood, Davis & the 1916 Expedition
The Name: A Rooster’s Crest
The name “Crestone” derives from the Spanish creston — the crested neck of a rooster — applied to the jagged, pinnacled ridge profile of the massif as seen from the San Luis Valley. The crags, towers, and sharp ridgelines of the Crestones do indeed resemble a rooster’s comb: serrated, dramatic, and unlike the smoother profiles of the Sawatch or Elk Mountains peaks. The town of Crestone, Colorado, on the western flank of the range, takes its name from the same source.
The Last Frontier — 1916 and the Ellingwood Expedition
By 1916, every significant peak in Colorado above 14,000 feet had been climbed — except the Crestones. The jagged towers of Crestone Peak and Crestone Needle had resisted every attempt, and the Needle in particular was widely considered unclimbable. In July 1916, Albert Ellingwood organized an extraordinary expedition of eight people, six of whom were women, that walked most of the 150-mile distance from Colorado Springs to the town of Crestone before making its attempt. Among the party was Eleanor Davis, a faculty member at Colorado College who would become one of the most significant American female climbers of the 20th century.
Ellingwood was unlike any American climber of his era. He had studied at Oxford as a Rhodes Scholar from 1910 to 1913, and during those years had learned to climb in England’s Lake District — acquiring rope technique and belaying skills that essentially did not exist in the American climbing community. Back in Colorado as a professor of political science, he was, in his own assessment, the only climber in the region who could handle a rope. Climbing historian Chris Jones later wrote that Ellingwood’s 1916 ascents in the Crestones were “probably the first rock climbs in the United States where a conscious effort was made to belay.”
July 24, 1916 — The Last Summit
On July 24, 1916, Ellingwood, Davis, Bee Rogers, and Joseph Deutschbein left camp near Spanish Creek to attempt Crestone Peak’s North Arête. Deutschbein turned back due to knee pain partway up. The remaining three continued, with Ellingwood pulling out his rope where the terrain became technical. They reached the summit of Crestone Peak — and then, the same afternoon, continued across the connecting ridge to make the first ascent of Crestone Needle, completing the conquest of every 14,000-foot summit in Colorado. On the descent, as they looked back at the northeast face of the massif, Ellingwood noticed the dramatic buttress that would become the route’s great future objective.
The Ellingwood Arête, 1925 — “50 Classic Climbs”
Nine years later, in August 1925, Ellingwood and Davis returned to the Crestones with Stephen Hart and Marion Warner. Their target: the great northeast buttress of Crestone Needle that had caught Ellingwood’s eye in 1916. The resulting route — now known as the Ellingwood Arête (or Ellingwood Ledges) — is rated III, 5.7 and rises 1,500 feet to the summit. It was included in Steck & Roper’s Fifty Classic Climbs of North America (1979) and remains one of the finest alpine rock routes in the state. The second ascent was not made until 1937 — by Robert Ormes, who named the route in Ellingwood’s memory in Trail and Timberline magazine.
Albert Ellingwood and Eleanor Davis
Albert Ellingwood (1887–1934) went on from the 1916 Crestones expedition to become the finest mountaineer in America. In 1920 he made the first ascent of Lizard Head — still considered Colorado’s most technically difficult summit. In 1923 he and Davis made the first ascents of the South and Middle Tetons. He died prematurely at 46 during a medical procedure while serving as dean at Northwestern University. A Colorado fourteener — Ellingwood Point, near Blanca Peak — is named in his honor.
Eleanor Davis (1885–1993) lived to the age of 107. She climbed approximately 30 of Colorado’s fourteeners, made multiple first ascents alongside Ellingwood, and in 1923 became the first woman to summit the Grand Teton. Robert Ormes, who knew her well, described her as “a little wren of a type, very tough and strong and not disturbed by altitude and a damn good climber and nervy.” Davis retired from mountaineering after marrying in 1930 and lived in Colorado Springs until her death. She remains one of the most remarkable figures in American climbing history.
Getting There
South Colony Lakes — From Westcliffe via South Colony Road
The Crestones are one of the more remote 14er groups in Colorado. The nearest full-service town is Westcliffe in the Wet Mountain Valley — a scenic small town approximately 45 miles from Pueblo via CO-78 or from Salida via US-50 and CO-96. The trailhead approach via South Colony Road is long and rough, with the upper gate permanently closed since 2009.
🚌 South Colony Road Access — Step by Step
- From Westcliffe: Drive south on CO-69 approximately 4.5 miles. Turn right (west) onto Colfax Lane (CO-119) — Forest Service sign present. Drive 5.5 miles to the end of Colfax Lane.
- At the junction: Turn right (west) onto South Colony Road (Forest Service Road 120). Drive approximately 1 mile to the first parking area on the right (open flats). This is the lower 2WD trailhead at ~8,800 ft. Passenger vehicles park here.
- 4WD vehicles: Continue approximately 2.6 miles further up the rough road to the upper gate at ~9,900 ft, where the South Colony Lakes road was permanently closed in 2009. This is now the official upper trailhead. 30 vehicles parking. The road is extremely rough and requires a full hour to drive even in 4WD. Genuine high-clearance 4WD is required — not optional.
- Private property warning: The section between the lower parking area and the National Forest boundary crosses private property. Do not camp on private land. Do not trespass on adjacent private property.
- From the upper gate (9,900 ft): Cross the footbridge and walk 2.5 miles up the old 4WD road (gentle grade) to the trail junction. Turn left, cross the log bridge, and reach what was formerly the 4WD upper trailhead at ~11,400 ft.
- Dogs: Not recommended for the long final couloir on the Red Gully route. Dogs are unable to negotiate the terrain in the upper sections.
Getting to Westcliffe
Westcliffe sits in the Wet Mountain Valley at the base of the Sangre de Cristo Range. From Pueblo: drive west on CO-96 through Wetmore approximately 45 miles to Westcliffe (~1 hour). From Colorado Springs: drive south on CO-115 to Florence then west on CO-96 approximately 75 miles (~1.5 hours). From Salida: drive east on US-50 and south on CO-69 approximately 55 miles (~1.25 hours). The Crestones are approximately 3.5–4 hours from Denver. The Pueblo Memorial Airport serves the region with connections from Denver (~1 hour flight); a car rental is necessary from Pueblo.
Complete Route Listing
All Trails & Routes on Crestone Peak
Crestone Peak’s standard route is among the best Class 3 summit routes on any Colorado fourteener — long, sustained, and on unusually solid rock. Technical routes on the north buttress and northwest couloir are serious alpine objectives for experienced parties. The Peak-to-Needle Traverse is a separate major objective deserving its own preparation and planning.
| # | Route Name | Grade | Character & Key Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | South Face / Red Gully (Standard) | Class 3 | Standard route. South Colony Lakes TH → Broken Hand Pass → Cottonwood Lake → Red Gully → notch (14,100 ft) → summit. 1,700 ft of Class 3 on solid conglomerate rock — finest standard 14er scramble rock in the Sangre de Cristos. Helmet mandatory. 2-day recommended (overnight at South Colony Lakes or Cottonwood Lake). ~11 miles RT from upper gate. |
| 2 | Northwest Couloir | Class 3 · loose · often icy | From the northwest side via “Bears’ Playground” / Pool Table area. Long gully with rockfall danger. Often loose and ice-filled. Helmet required. Involves ~6,000 ft of total gain from approach. Less popular than the Red Gully route due to rockfall hazard and loose terrain. |
| 3 | North Buttress | Class 4 · classic | Classic Class 4 route on the north side. More sustained technical climbing than the standard route. Requires prior 14er Class 3–4 experience and careful route-finding. Good rock by Sangre de Cristo standards. |
| 4 | North Arête | Class 4–5 · historic | The line of the 1916 first ascent by Ellingwood, Davis & Rogers. North arête of Crestone Peak leading to the summit. Ellingwood used a rope on the more technical sections — described as among the first belayed rock climbs in the US. Rarely repeated as a standalone route; upper portion part of the traverse approach. |
| 5 | Peak-to-Needle Traverse (Lower) | Class 4 · fatal exposure | One of Colorado’s four classic 14er traverses. Summit Crestone Peak via South Face, descend to ~13,650 ft, traverse the connecting ridge to Crestone Needle (14,203 ft). Class 4 lower option typically done without rope. The crux wall below the Needle’s summit is fatal-fall territory. Descent via Needle’s South Face. See dedicated traverse section. |
| 6 | Ellingwood Arête (on Crestone Needle) | Grade III · 5.7 | 50 Classic Climbs of North America. On Crestone Needle (not Peak). 1,500 ft route on the NE buttress. First climbed August 1925 by Ellingwood & Davis. Second ascent 1937; named the Ellingwood Ledges by Ormes. Site of multiple fatalities. Requires trad climbing skills and full rack. |
Note: The Ellingwood Arête is a route on Crestone Needle, not Crestone Peak. It is listed here because of its historical connection to the Peak’s first ascent and its role in the broader Crestones climbing story. Parties specifically seeking the Ellingwood Arête should research the Crestone Needle route separately.
Primary Route Detail
South Face Red Gully — Full Step-by-Step Description
South Face / Red Gully — Standard Route
- Upper gate to South Colony Lakes (~2.5 miles): From the gate at 9,900 ft, cross the footbridge and follow the old 4WD road northwest for 2.5 miles to the trail junction near 11,400 ft. Turn left at the junction, cross the log bridge, and continue to the lower South Colony Lake — a beautiful high alpine lake at approximately 11,650 ft, ringed by the dramatic peaks of the Crestones. Camping here is the standard first-night objective. No camping within 300 ft of either lake. Do not camp at Cottonwood Lake (the basin remains pristine — please keep it that way).
- South Colony Lake to Broken Hand Pass (12,900 ft) — “the arduous part”: From lower South Colony Lake, the trail climbs via switchbacks to Broken Hand Pass at 12,900 ft — the saddle between Broken Hand Peak and Crestone Needle. This section is consistently described as the most physically demanding part of the approach: steep, loose scree, talus, and hardpacked dirt compacted by years of foot traffic. A narrow Class 3 section near the top of the pass has few options. Allow 1.5–2 hours from camp to the pass. A snowfield typically covers the couloir and talus field below the north side of the saddle until late July.
- Broken Hand Pass to Cottonwood Lake: On the west side of the pass, follow the trail down the steep slope — losing approximately 800 feet of hard-earned elevation — to the secluded Cottonwood Lake. This descent is psychologically difficult but necessary. The lake is beautiful and pristine; avoid camping here to preserve the basin. Continue past the lake, staying on the trail that curves right around the north side toward the Red Gully basin. After passing the end of Crestone Needle’s southwest ridge, the view of Crestone Peak opens up and the Red Gully becomes visible.
- Approaching the Red Gully: Follow the trail northeast as it climbs into the basin right of the gully base. Do not enter the base of the gully directly — bypass the steep rock at the base by following a small trail east to about 12,700 ft. Turn left and follow cairns up onto the easy rock just east of the gully. After a short traverse west, reach the Red Gully proper.
- The Red Gully (12,500–14,100 ft, Class 3): The Red Gully is the defining feature of Crestone Peak — a dramatic, iron-stained red rock couloir splitting the south face from 12,500 ft to the notch at 14,100 ft. The rock is remarkably solid by Colorado 14er standards — Crestone conglomerate that is stable and grippy. Climb directly up the gully, following red-stained rock. In summer, water often runs down the center of the lower half. The gully has steeper sections between 13,000–13,500 ft and again between 13,750 ft and the notch. A helmet is mandatory throughout — other parties above will dislodge rocks that funnel straight down the gully. Call “Rock!” for any dislodged material.
- The Notch (14,100 ft) and Summit: At 14,100 ft the gully ends at the notch. Turn left and scramble up conglomerate rock ledges — slightly more exposed than the gully but short. This final pitch to the summit is sometimes described as harder than the gully itself due to the increased exposure. Take time to find the best line. The summit of Crestone Peak is a rugged, pointed top at 14,297 ft. Views encompass the San Luis Valley to the west, South Colony Lakes and the Kit Carson–Challenger massif to the north, the Blanca group to the south, and on clear days the entire Sangre de Cristo Range. Turning right at the notch leads to East Crestone (a sub-summit without sufficient prominence to rank as a separate mountain).
- Descent: Reverse the exact ascent route. Descend carefully through the notch area, down the Red Gully (extra care dislodging rocks onto parties below), west to Cottonwood Lake, up to Broken Hand Pass, and back down to South Colony Lakes. Total summit day (from camp at South Colony Lakes): 8–12 hours.
Cottonwood Creek / Western Approach
- Overview: The Cottonwood Creek approach begins in the San Luis Valley and approaches the Crestones from the west, following Cottonwood Creek to Cottonwood Lake where it joins the standard route. This approach is preferred by some climbers for its dramatically different perspective on the peaks and significantly fewer people. SummitPost describes it as having “far less people and nicer scenery.”
- Private property: The Cottonwood Creek route crosses private land. Obtain permission before entry and remain on designated trails. Contact the adjacent landowners (Baca area) for current access status before planning this approach. This requirement is consistently noted in route guides and is not optional.
- Trail quality: The trail starts well-defined through the lower creek drainage, but becomes faint and poorly maintained after passing a southeastern tributary at approximately 11,100 ft. Route-finding skills are required in the upper sections before the trail rejoins the standard route near Cottonwood Lake. This approach is recommended only for experienced parties comfortable with navigation in unmarked alpine terrain.
Ellingwood Arête (Crestone Needle) — 50 Classic Climbs
- Historical context: In August 1925, nine years after their 1916 first ascents of Crestone Peak and Needle, Ellingwood and Davis returned with Stephen Hart and Marion Warner to attempt the great northeast buttress of Crestone Needle that Ellingwood had noticed on the descent from the 1916 summits. By 1925, Ellingwood was described as “quite likely the finest mountaineer in the land” and Davis as “undoubtedly the most experienced American female climber.” Their ascent of the buttress — 1,500 feet of slabby ledges and arching rock rising to a dramatic 500-foot headwall — took four hours on the upper section. Ormes named it the Ellingwood Ledges on the second ascent in 1937 (the name “Ellingwood Arête” is technically a misnomer, as the ridge is not sharp, but both names are in common use today).
- The route: The arête rises 1,500 feet from lower South Colony Lake on the northeast side of Crestone Needle. The lower section is sliced by ledges and traverses. A prominent 500-foot headwall on the upper section contains the route’s most sustained and difficult climbing, including the crux pitches at 5.7. A full trad rack is required. The route is visible from South Colony Lake and is unmistakable on the approach.
- Safety note: The Ellingwood Arête is the site of multiple fatalities. Crestone Needle is described as the 4th deadliest Colorado fourteener. Parties must have genuine multi-pitch trad climbing experience, not just scrambling ability, before attempting this route. A guide is appropriate for parties whose trad skills are developing.
- Access note: The Ellingwood Arête is accessed from the same South Colony Lakes base as the standard Crestone Peak route. Many Crestones parties combine a standard Peak ascent with an Ellingwood Arête attempt on Needle in a 2–3 day program from South Colony Lakes.
The Classic Linkup
Peak-to-Needle Traverse — One of Colorado’s Four Classic 14er Traverses
△ Crestone Peak to Needle Traverse — Class 4 · Fatal-Fall Crux · One of Colorado’s Four Great 14er Traverses
The Peak-to-Needle Traverse connects the summits of Crestone Peak (14,297 ft) and Crestone Needle (14,203 ft) via the narrow connecting ridge — one of Colorado’s four classic 14er traverses alongside the Maroon Bells Traverse, the Longs Peak–Chiefs Head traverse, and the Torreys–Grays traverse. It is the most technically serious of these four. Most parties do it Peak-to-Needle (south face up to Peak, traverse to Needle, descend Needle’s south face) for route-finding and crux management reasons.
- Lower traverse (Class 4, usually done without rope): From the summit of Crestone Peak, descend the Red Gully to approximately 13,650 ft. Exit the gully east onto angled rocks with cairns and begin the traverse. The route follows a zigzag pattern across a series of gullies and ribs, staying mostly below the ridge crest. Cairns guide the route but route-finding is still challenging. The 14ers.com traverse description uses 34 numbered photographs to capture the complexity. Allow 2–4 hours for the traverse section alone.
- The crux — Crestone Needle summit headwall: The traverse ends with the infamous 100-foot Class 4 headwall below the Needle’s summit. 14ers.com is explicit: “WARNING: This route involves difficult, exposed Class 4 climbing, and a fall on the final pitch would almost certainly be fatal.” The wall has great holds when dry, but the exposure is significant and the consequences of a fall are clear. A rope and belay setup is appropriate for less experienced parties — a rappel station exists for those descending the crux rather than downclimbing it.
- Higher technical traverse option: A higher version of the traverse stays closer to the ridge crest and involves Class 5 terrain requiring full technical equipment. It is less commonly done but offers a more aesthetic experience for parties with the technical ability.
- Needle-to-Peak direction: The traverse can be done in reverse but most sources recommend Peak-to-Needle because (1) the crux headwall on the Needle is better climbed upward than rappelled on descent, (2) the Needle south face descent is shorter than the Peak Red Gully, and (3) route-finding is generally easier in the Peak-to-Needle direction.
- A light rack is recommended: Even for the Class 4 lower option, a light alpine rack (several slings, a few pieces, belay device) is appropriate given the fatal-fall consequences on the Needle crux. Most parties solo the traverse but roping for the crux headwall is sensible for less experienced parties.
Sample Itinerary
Recommended Two-Day Program
A two-day program with an overnight at South Colony Lakes is strongly recommended for Crestone Peak. The South Colony Lakes basin is one of the most spectacular high camps in Colorado — the investment of a full day’s approach is rewarded many times over.
Day 1 Afternoon — Drive South Colony Road to Upper Gate & Hike to South Colony Lakes
Day 2, 3:00–4:00 AM — Pre-Dawn Start from South Colony Lakes
5:00–6:30 AM — Broken Hand Pass to Cottonwood Lake to Red Gully
6:30–9:00 AM — Red Gully to Summit
9:00 AM–2:00 PM — Descent or Traverse to Needle
Regulations & Fees
Sangre de Cristo Wilderness — No Permit Fee
| Resource | Details | Contact |
|---|---|---|
| Wilderness Permit | No advance permit or fee required. Sangre de Cristo Wilderness is open access. Follow LNT principles. Self-register at trailhead kiosk if sign-in log present. | Rio Grande NF, Del Norte District: (719) 657-3321 |
| Camping Rules | No camping within 300 ft of either South Colony Lake. Designated sites in South Colony basin (Forest Service in process of developing these). Do not camp at Cottonwood Lake — basin is pristine and should remain so. | fs.usda.gov/riogrande → |
| South Colony Road | Road permanently gated at 9,900 ft (2009). Do not camp on the private property section between lower trailhead and National Forest boundary. | Sangre de Cristo Wilderness boundary ~1.2 miles from upper gate |
| Dogs | Not recommended for the long final couloir route (Red Gully). Dogs cannot negotiate the upper terrain. | — |
Seasonal Planning
Best Time to Climb Crestone Peak
The Sangre de Cristo Range receives significant precipitation and is known for violent afternoon lightning. The Crestones have a history of fatal lightning strikes. An early start and commitment to descent before noon on summit day is not optional.
| Season | Window | Pros | Watch-outs |
|---|---|---|---|
| Summer ★ Primary | Late June – September | Best weather windows; Red Gully typically snow-free mid-July onward; South Colony Lakes accessible; dramatic wildflowers in July | Daily afternoon lightning — get off exposed terrain by noon; Broken Hand Pass snowfield persists until late July; pre-dawn starts mandatory |
| Late September | Late Sept | Fewer crowds; stable weather possible; excellent fall colors in approach | Snow on upper route likely; Red Gully can be icy; South Colony Road may have early snow |
| Before mid-July | June – early July | Snowpack on Broken Hand Pass approach and Red Gully — ice axe and crampons needed; quieter | Snowfield on Broken Hand Pass north side until late July; Red Gully may be snowy ice; adds mountaineering requirement to what is otherwise a scramble |
| Winter | Oct – May | Winter ascents by specialists | High avalanche danger; extreme cold; South Colony Road snowed in; no services |
Equipment
Essential Gear for Crestone Peak
⛰ Summit & Technical
- Helmet — mandatory in Red Gully (rockfall)
- Mountaineering or sturdy approach boots
- Crampons (required before mid-July on Red Gully & Broken Hand Pass snowfield)
- Ice axe (required before mid-July)
- Trekking poles (long scree approach)
- Light rack (for Peak-to-Needle Traverse crux)
- 30–50 m rope (for traverse crux belay if needed)
🌄 Sangre de Cristo Weather
- Waterproof hardshell jacket + pants
- Down or insulating jacket
- Moisture-wicking base layers
- Warm gloves + liner gloves
- Warm hat + buff
- Sunscreen SPF 50+ (strong UV at 14,000 ft)
- Sunglasses
- Gaiters (scree and snow sections)
⛺ Two-Day Camp (South Colony Lakes)
- Backpacking tent (3–4 season)
- Sleeping bag rated for 20°F / −7°C
- Sleeping pads ×2
- Backpacking stove + fuel
- 2 days food + snacks
- Water filter (lakes and streams)
- 45–65 L backpack for overnight
- Human waste kit (LNT)
📡 Navigation & Safety
- Satellite communicator (InReach etc.)
- Headlamp ×2 + batteries (pre-dawn start)
- GPS with downloaded route
- Paper topo map (Sangre de Cristo Wilderness)
- First aid kit
- Emergency bivy sack
- Ten Essentials
Risk & Preparedness
Difficulty & Safety Notes
Why the Crestones have claimed lives
The Crestones are consistently ranked among the most dangerous fourteener groups in Colorado. Crestone Needle is the 4th deadliest fourteener by historical accident data. Crestone Peak is described as “one of the more dangerous fourteener climbs in Colorado.” The primary hazard patterns:
- Lightning — the Sangre de Cristo pattern: Daily afternoon thunderstorms are a standard feature of the Sangre de Cristos in July and August. The exposed ridges of the Crestones offer no shelter. Pre-dawn starts and a hard turnaround by noon are essential. Multiple fatalities have been caused by lightning in the Crestones.
- Rockfall in the Red Gully: The gully concentrates rockfall from parties above onto parties below. A helmet is not optional. If there are parties above you when you arrive at the gully, either wait for them to clear the section you’re about to enter, or start earlier. Shout “Rock!” immediately for any dislodged material.
- Route-finding: The Broken Hand Pass approach, the basin below the Red Gully (where the bypass trail is critical), and the Peak-to-Needle Traverse all involve route-finding that is not immediately obvious. Study the 14ers.com photo guide before your trip. GPS tracking is strongly recommended.
- Commitment and remoteness: South Colony Lakes is a long way from any road. The round trip from the upper gate is approximately 11 miles. Rescue takes time. Self-sufficiency is essential. The Crestones are not appropriate for first-time scrambler 14er climbers.
- Peak-to-Needle crux: The traverse involves a fatal-fall headwall below the Needle’s summit that should be approached with the same respect as Capitol Peak’s Knife Edge. A rope for the crux is appropriate for less experienced parties.
Guided Programs
Crestone Peak Guide Services
Pikes Peak Alpine School (PPAS) offers guided Crestones programs including Crestone Peak (South Face), Crestone Needle, and the Peak-to-Needle Traverse, with AMGA-certified alpine guides. Based in Colorado Springs, close to the Westcliffe approach. They also guide the Ellingwood Arête. For big days, they prefer clients with prior guided experience.
Visit Website →Colorado Mountain School offers guided Crestones programs with AMGA-certified guides, including the Peak South Face and the Ellingwood Arête on the Needle. One of the most established guide services in Colorado with broad 14er and technical climbing offerings.
Visit Website →Common Questions
Frequently Asked Questions About Crestone Peak
Live Conditions
Map of Crestone Peak & Live Weather
Summit location and live weather from Crestone Peak’s coordinates (37.967°N, 105.585°W). The map shows the summit, the South Colony Lakes area (base camp), and Westcliffe — the nearest full-service town in the Wet Mountain Valley ~30 miles northeast.
Crestone Peak — Summit Conditions
14,297 ft / 4,358 m · Sangre de Cristo Range · Live from summit coordinates
Planning Summary
At-a-Glance Planning Snapshot
| Mountain | Crestone Peak — highest of the Crestones, last 14er group climbed in Colorado (1916) |
| Elevation | 14,297 ft / 4,358 m — 7th highest summit in the Rocky Mountains |
| Location | Sangre de Cristo Wilderness, Rio Grande NF, Saguache County, CO |
| Base Town | Westcliffe, CO — Wet Mountain Valley — ~30 miles northeast via CO-69 & South Colony Road |
| Trailhead | Upper gate (9,900 ft, gated 2009); lower 2WD lot at ~8,800 ft — via CO-69 south from Westcliffe |
| Standard Route | South Face / Red Gully (Class 3 — 1,700 ft solid conglomerate scrambling) |
| Route Waypoints | South Colony Lakes → Broken Hand Pass (12,900 ft) → Cottonwood Lake → Red Gully → notch (14,100 ft) → summit |
| Traverse | Peak-to-Needle (Class 4; fatal-fall crux on Needle headwall; one of Colorado’s four classic 14er traverses) |
| 50 Classics Route | Ellingwood Arête on Crestone Needle (III, 5.7; on the Needle, not the Peak) |
| Permit | No permit required; no fee; self-issue wilderness entry |
| Best Season | Late June – September; daily lightning — summit by noon |
| First Ascent | July 24, 1916 — Albert Ellingwood, Eleanor Davis & Bee Rogers — North Arête — first belayed rock climbs in the US |
| Eleanor Davis | Lived to 107 · first woman to summit Grand Teton (1923) · “a damn good climber and nervy” |