Last updated July 13, 2026

🏔️ Colorado 14er · Sangre de Cristo Range · Class 3 · 2026

Crestone Peak: The Red Gully Route, Class 3 Difficulty & 2026 Guide

Colorado’s 7th-highest summit and one of its most demanding “non-technical” fourteeners – a 2,000-foot sustained Class 3 scramble up the famous Crestone Conglomerate. Here’s how to climb it, and who’s ready for it.

By Walker Ludlow · Trail & Route Research · Safety review: Dawson Ludlow

Updated July 12, 2026 · Last verified: July 12, 2026 · Reading time 11 minutes

Editorial approach: RESEARCH-BASED, cross-referenced with Colorado 14er field knowledge. Elevations, distances, and route detail are compiled from USGS data, 14ers.com, the Colorado Fourteeners Initiative, and Forest Service sources. Trailhead access, snow, and RMFI stewardship status change each season – verify current conditions before you go.

⚡ The short version

Crestone Peak is a Class 3 fourteener that climbs harder than its grade. The moves are Class 3, but the 2,000-foot Red Gully delivers more sustained scrambling than almost any other Class 3 14er, on top of a 12-to-14-mile day with a loss-and-regain over Broken Hand Pass. It feels closer to alpine climbing than a typical 14er hike.

The saving grace is the rock. The Crestone Conglomerate – embedded stones sticking out like natural holds – is famously grippy, which is exactly why sustained Class 3 is even possible here. Come with real Class 3 experience, backpacking legs for the South Colony Lakes approach, and a pre-dawn start to beat the storms.

14,294 ft

Summit (4,357 m) · 7th in CO

Class 3

Sustained · Red Gully

~5,200 ft

Gain · 12–14 mi round trip

1916

First ascent · Ellingwood & Davis

On this page

1. At a glance
2. Why it stands apart
3. Map & live weather
4. Who should climb it
5. Where it fits in the progression
6. The routes
7. Summit day, hour by hour
8. When to climb
9. 2026 costs
10. Gear checklist
11. FAQ

Crestone Peak at a glance

The essential reference facts. Detail follows below.

Why Crestone Peak stands apart

Great rock, a wild setting, and a route longer than almost any other standard 14er.

Crestone Peak holds a precise place in Colorado climbing. It ranks below Colorado’s tallest 14er, Mount Elbert, and below Blanca Peak, the high point of its own range. What it owns is a reputation: among climbers who have done many fourteeners, Crestone Peak is simply “The Peak,” a byword for a long, sustained, beautiful Class 3 day on some of the best rock in the state. It was also one of the last major Colorado 14ers to be climbed, holding out until 1916, because early visitors thought its conglomerate walls had no reasonable route.

The Crestone Conglomerate

The Crestones owe their climbable reputation to their rock. Crestone Conglomerate is a hardened sedimentary rock studded with rounded stones roughly 2 to 6 inches across, embedded halfway out of the matrix. Those knobs act as positive hand and foot holds, so sustained Class 3 and 4 climbing works on walls that would be far more committing on smooth granite. Climbers routinely describe the rock as grippy and confidence-inspiring, and the effect is real enough that visiting climbers travel a long way to feel it. On 3,000-foot conglomerate walls, that grip is what makes the difference between a scramble and a serious technical climb.

The Red Gully

The route’s centerpiece is the Red Gully (also called the Red Couloir), a roughly 2,000-foot sustained Class 3 scramble that climbs the south face directly to a notch just below the summit. Unlike most Class 3 fourteeners, where the scrambling is brief and punctuated by walking, the Red Gully is continuous, steepening in two bands on the way to the notch. That sustained character – hundreds of feet of hands-on movement at over 13,000 ft – is what makes Crestone Peak climb harder than its Class 3 grade suggests, and why it’s such good training for the Class 4 peaks that follow.

Map & live weather

Crestone Peak sits deep in the Sangre de Cristo Wilderness above South Colony Lakes.

Summit: 14,294 ftBroken Hand Pass: ~12,900 ftHigh camp: South Colony Lakes (~11,700 ft)Trailhead: ~9,000 ft (2WD lot)

South Colony Lakes (~11,700 ft) – live forecast

Loading live data…

Fetching the latest forecast…

Live forecast unavailable right now. Check a Crestone Peak / South Colony Lakes mountain forecast before you go.

Basin weather, not summit weather. This forecast is for the South Colony Lakes basin (~11,700 ft). The summit at 14,294 ft is colder and windier, and Colorado’s summer monsoon builds afternoon thunderstorms most days – a pre-dawn start is the standard safety margin.

Who should climb it

More than most Class 3 14ers demand – be honest about scrambling endurance and exposure.

Crestone Peak sits above most Class 3 fourteeners but below true Class 4. Honest self-assessment matters here, especially about sustained scrambling stamina and comfort on prolonged exposure. It’s a strong fit if you:

Where it fits in your Colorado 14er progression

The standard step between the easy Class 3 peaks and the Class 4 hardest.

The natural next step is Crestone Peak’s twin, Crestone Needle (Class 4) – many climbers do both from the same South Colony Lakes camp, either back-to-back or via the traverse. From there the Elk Range Class 4 peaks (Capitol, the Maroons, Pyramid) are the endgame; the sustained scrambling and long days you build on Crestone Peak transfer directly.

The routes

One standard line handles the vast majority – plus a snow route and a famous traverse.

Route 1 — South Face via the Red Gully (standard)

The standard line climbs the south face via Broken Hand Pass and the Red Gully. Most parties break it into a 5-to-6-mile approach day to South Colony Lakes camp and a summit day of 8 to 12 hours; strong, fit climbers occasionally do the whole thing car-to-car in a single 14-to-18-hour push. The distinctive feature is the loss-and-regain: you climb to Broken Hand Pass, then lose 500 to 600 ft into Cottonwood Lake basin before the real climbing begins — elevation you have to earn back on the way home.

~9,000 ft

South Colony Lakes Trailhead
2WD lot off Custer County Road 119 (a rough 4WD road continues higher). Limited parking — arrive early on weekends.

11,700 ft

South Colony Lakes camp
5–6 miles in, ~4–5 hours with a full pack. Free dispersed wilderness camping in a spectacular basin below the Crestones.

12,900 ft

Broken Hand Pass
~1,200 ft of climbing to the saddle between Broken Hand Peak and Crestone Needle. Early season may hold a snowfield needing an ice axe.

12,300 ft

Cottonwood Lake basin
Descend 500–600 ft into the basin below the peak — the elevation you’ll regain on the return.

12,700 ft

Red Gully base
Follow cairns to the foot of the couloir. Water, food, and a mental gear-up before the sustained climbing.

14,100 ft

The notch
~2,000 ft of sustained Class 3 up the Red Gully on grippy conglomerate to the notch at the top of the couloir.

14,294 ft

Western summit
From the notch, scramble left up conglomerate ledges — a short, semi-exposed finish that can feel harder than the gully. The eastern summit (~30 ft lower) is a quick optional add-on.

Route 2 — Northwest Couloir (snow route)

An early-season alternative from the Crestone village side, best in May and June when consolidated snow fills the couloir for classic Colorado snow climbing. It needs crampons, an ice axe, and rope-team capability, and it melts out into loose, unpleasant talus by late summer. Most parties on it are experienced Colorado alpinists; guides rarely operate here.

Route 3 — Crestone Peak to Crestone Needle Traverse (advanced)

One of Colorado’s most famous 14er linkups: a half-mile of Class 5 climbing between the twin summits, usually taking 3 to 5 hours, with many parties roping up for the exposed sections. Most climbers summit Crestone Peak first, traverse to the Needle, then descend the Needle’s standard route. It rewards real rock-climbing competence, and it isn’t a place to learn it.

Know the true grade before you commitSome famous Crestones “tours” cross into alpine terrain — the Peak-to-Needle traverse is Class 5, and the Northwest Couloir is a snow climb. Read each route’s real grade, not just its reputation, and bring a rope and the skills where the route calls for them.

Summit day, hour by hour

From South Colony Lakes camp — one of the longest 14er summit days in the state.

04:00

Wake at camp (11,700 ft)
Typically 30–40°F even in summer. Quick breakfast, gear check, helmet on, headlamp ready.

04:30–05:00

Depart camp
Head up toward Broken Hand Pass. The morning’s main work is the climb to the pass.

05:00–07:00

Climb to Broken Hand Pass (12,900 ft)
~1,200 ft of gain; often the day’s most arduous stretch in the early dark. Sunrise usually lands here.

07:00–08:00

Descend to Cottonwood basin (12,300 ft)
Give back 500–600 ft — psychologically tough, since you’ll regain it later.

08:30–10:30

Red Gully (to ~14,100 ft)
~2,000 ft of sustained Class 3 on conglomerate. Positive holds throughout; steady, focused movement at altitude.

11:00–11:30

Western summit (14,294 ft)
Views across the Sangres to the Great Sand Dunes. Add the eastern summit if you like, then start down — the clock is now the enemy.

11:30–15:30

Descend to camp
Down-climb the gully (nearly as slow as the ascent), regain Broken Hand Pass, then drop to camp. Watch the sky — afternoon storms build fast.

Afternoon lightning is the real hazardColorado’s summer monsoon (mid-July through August) fires thunderstorms most days between about 11am and 2pm, and the Red Gully and summit are exposed lightning targets. Crestone Peak’s length makes timing unforgiving: if you’re not summiting by ~10:30–11:00, you’re descending exposed terrain into the danger window. The pre-dawn start is the margin that keeps you safe here — treat it as mandatory.

When to climb

Late June to mid-October, with a clear sweet spot.

Late June–early July: the Red Gully still holds snow; bring an ice axe and crampons, enjoy the best wildflowers and thinner crowds. Mid-July–mid-August: peak season — the gully is melted out and clean, but the monsoon is at its most aggressive, so pre-dawn starts are essential. Mid-August–mid-September: the sweet spot most experienced climbers prefer — excellent conditions, easing afternoon weather, thinner crowds. Mid-September–mid-October: stable autumn weather, golden aspens on the approach, cold starts, and the first summit snow late in the window. Winter is a serious mountaineering objective with real avalanche exposure in the gully and a road that closes by late October.

2026 costs

One of Colorado’s best-value big days — free to climb independently.

Guided pricing runs higher per day than for drive-up 14ers because the backpacking approach, overnight high camp, and 12-to-14-mile length all add complexity, and few operators work the Sangres. If you want a guide, book 4–6 months ahead for summer dates.

Gear checklist

Backpacking kit for the camp plus scrambling kit for the gully.

Leave No Trace in the SangresThe Crestones get steady trail-stewardship work from the Rocky Mountain Field Institute (RMFI). Stay on established trails, camp on durable surfaces at least 200 ft from water, and pack out all waste — WAG bags above treeline — to protect a heavily-used basin and the indigenous heritage of this range.

Frequently asked questions

How tall is Crestone Peak and where is it?

14,294 ft (4,357 m) in the Sangre de Cristo Range of southern Colorado — the 7th-highest peak in the state and 2nd in the range after Blanca Peak (14,345 ft). It has twin summits, the western being the high point (~30 ft above the eastern), and anchors the Crestone group with Crestone Needle, Kit Carson Peak, and Challenger Point.

How difficult is it?

Class 3 by grade, but harder than most Class 3 14ers because of length and sustained scrambling: ~1,200 ft to Broken Hand Pass, a 500–600 ft drop into Cottonwood basin, then ~2,000 ft of continuous Class 3 up the Red Gully. Round trip is ~12–14 miles with ~5,200 ft of gain — one of the longest standard 14er days in Colorado.

What’s the standard route?

The South Face via Broken Hand Pass and the Red Gully. From the South Colony Lakes Trailhead, hike ~5–6 miles to camp, climb to Broken Hand Pass, descend into Cottonwood basin, then scramble ~2,000 ft of sustained Class 3 up the Red Gully to a notch, and finish up conglomerate ledges to the summit.

What is the Crestone Conglomerate?

The rock the Crestones are built from — a hardened conglomerate with rounded 2–6 inch stones embedded halfway out, acting as positive holds. It’s unusually solid and grippy, which is why sustained Class 3–4 climbing is possible on walls that would otherwise be far more committing.

When is the best time to climb?

Mid-July to mid-September, within a late-June to mid-October season. The gully holds snow into early July (ice axe and crampons then). Because of the summer monsoon, start pre-dawn to summit and descend before afternoon thunderstorms.

How much does it cost in 2026?

Free to climb independently — no permits or fees, free camping. Budget for fuel, food, and lodging in Westcliffe or Crestone ($80–$220/night). Guided programs run ~$1,000–$2,500 per person for 2–3 days.

Can I climb Crestone Peak and Crestone Needle together?

Yes — a classic Sangres objective. Do them on consecutive days from South Colony Lakes camp (3–4 days total), or link them with the Class 5 Peak-to-Needle traverse, one of Colorado’s most famous 14er linkups. The traverse needs real rock-climbing skill and a rope for most parties.

How does it compare to Capitol Peak or the Maroon Bells?

It sits just below them — Class 3 sustained versus their Class 4 — and it’s excellent preparation. Capitol adds the committing Knife Edge on solid rock; the Maroons and Pyramid add loose, dangerous rock. A common order is Crestone Peak → Crestone Needle → the Elk Range Class 4 peaks.

How this guide is built

Research-based, cross-referenced with Colorado 14er field knowledge. Elevations, distances, route detail, and history are compiled from USGS survey data, 14ers.com, the Colorado Fourteeners Initiative, the Rocky Mountain Field Institute, and Forest Service sources. Figures are approximate and can differ between sources; feet are primary here, with metric in parentheses, for a US fourteener.

Trailhead access, road condition, snow level, RMFI stewardship status, and weather change every season and can differ on your dates. Confirm current conditions with the Forest Service, recent trip reports, and a current mountain forecast before you climb.

Walker Ludlow

Climber & Trail/Gear Research, Global Summit Guide

Walker researches Global Summit Guide’s US mountain and 14er coverage, focusing on route logistics, gear, and honest difficulty framing. This guide is research-based and cross-referenced with Colorado 14er field knowledge; safety and route content is reviewed by Dawson Ludlow. Our aim is to help climbers judge whether Crestone Peak matches their experience — because its Class 3 grade undersells how big a day it really is.

Plan your Colorado 14er climb

Colorado 14ers complete guide · Best mountains to climb in Colorado · Mount Sneffels · Capitol Peak · Blanca Peak · Longs Peak

Explore the mountain database

Browse all mountains · Filter the full mountain list · Which mountain should you climb? · Fitness standards

One of Colorado’s finest Class 3 days

Great rock, a wild Sangres setting, and a sustained Red Gully that punches above its grade. Come with the scrambling miles, the backpacking legs, and an early alarm — Crestone Peak rewards the prepared.Colorado 14ers guide →Next step: Capitol Peak →

🏔️ Colorado 14er · Sangre de Cristo Range · Class 3 · 2026

Crestone Peak: The Red Gully Route, Class 3 Difficulty & 2026 Guide

Colorado’s 7th-highest summit and one of its most demanding “non-technical” fourteeners – a 2,000-foot sustained Class 3 scramble up the famous Crestone Conglomerate. Here’s how to climb it, and who’s ready for it.

By Walker Ludlow · Trail & Route Research · Safety review: Dawson Ludlow

Updated July 12, 2026 · Last verified: July 12, 2026 · Reading time 11 minutes

Editorial approach: RESEARCH-BASED, cross-referenced with Colorado 14er field knowledge. Elevations, distances, and route detail are compiled from USGS data, 14ers.com, the Colorado Fourteeners Initiative, and Forest Service sources. Trailhead access, snow, and RMFI stewardship status change each season – verify current conditions before you go.

⚡ The short version

Crestone Peak is a Class 3 fourteener that climbs harder than its grade. The moves are Class 3, but the 2,000-foot Red Gully delivers more sustained scrambling than almost any other Class 3 14er, on top of a 12-to-14-mile day with a loss-and-regain over Broken Hand Pass. It feels closer to alpine climbing than a typical 14er hike.

The saving grace is the rock. The Crestone Conglomerate – embedded stones sticking out like natural holds – is famously grippy, which is exactly why sustained Class 3 is even possible here. Come with real Class 3 experience, backpacking legs for the South Colony Lakes approach, and a pre-dawn start to beat the storms.

14,294 ft

Summit (4,357 m) · 7th in CO

Class 3

Sustained · Red Gully

~5,200 ft

Gain · 12–14 mi round trip

1916

First ascent · Ellingwood & Davis

On this page

1. At a glance
2. Why it stands apart
3. Map & live weather
4. Who should climb it
5. Where it fits in the progression
6. The routes
7. Summit day, hour by hour
8. When to climb
9. 2026 costs
10. Gear checklist
11. FAQ

Crestone Peak at a glance

The essential reference facts. Detail follows below.

Why Crestone Peak stands apart

Great rock, a wild setting, and a route longer than almost any other standard 14er.

Crestone Peak holds a precise place in Colorado climbing. It ranks below Colorado’s tallest 14er, Mount Elbert, and below Blanca Peak, the high point of its own range. What it owns is a reputation: among climbers who have done many fourteeners, Crestone Peak is simply “The Peak,” a byword for a long, sustained, beautiful Class 3 day on some of the best rock in the state. It was also one of the last major Colorado 14ers to be climbed, holding out until 1916, because early visitors thought its conglomerate walls had no reasonable route.

The Crestone Conglomerate

The Crestones owe their climbable reputation to their rock. Crestone Conglomerate is a hardened sedimentary rock studded with rounded stones roughly 2 to 6 inches across, embedded halfway out of the matrix. Those knobs act as positive hand and foot holds, so sustained Class 3 and 4 climbing works on walls that would be far more committing on smooth granite. Climbers routinely describe the rock as grippy and confidence-inspiring, and the effect is real enough that visiting climbers travel a long way to feel it. On 3,000-foot conglomerate walls, that grip is what makes the difference between a scramble and a serious technical climb.

The Red Gully

The route’s centerpiece is the Red Gully (also called the Red Couloir), a roughly 2,000-foot sustained Class 3 scramble that climbs the south face directly to a notch just below the summit. Unlike most Class 3 fourteeners, where the scrambling is brief and punctuated by walking, the Red Gully is continuous, steepening in two bands on the way to the notch. That sustained character – hundreds of feet of hands-on movement at over 13,000 ft – is what makes Crestone Peak climb harder than its Class 3 grade suggests, and why it’s such good training for the Class 4 peaks that follow.

Map & live weather

Crestone Peak sits deep in the Sangre de Cristo Wilderness above South Colony Lakes.

Summit: 14,294 ftBroken Hand Pass: ~12,900 ftHigh camp: South Colony Lakes (~11,700 ft)Trailhead: ~9,000 ft (2WD lot)

South Colony Lakes (~11,700 ft) – live forecast

Loading live data…

Fetching the latest forecast…

Live forecast unavailable right now. Check a Crestone Peak / South Colony Lakes mountain forecast before you go.

Basin weather, not summit weather. This forecast is for the South Colony Lakes basin (~11,700 ft). The summit at 14,294 ft is colder and windier, and Colorado’s summer monsoon builds afternoon thunderstorms most days – a pre-dawn start is the standard safety margin.

Who should climb it

More than most Class 3 14ers demand – be honest about scrambling endurance and exposure.

Crestone Peak sits above most Class 3 fourteeners but below true Class 4. Honest self-assessment matters here, especially about sustained scrambling stamina and comfort on prolonged exposure. It’s a strong fit if you:

Where it fits in your Colorado 14er progression

The standard step between the easy Class 3 peaks and the Class 4 hardest.

The natural next step is Crestone Peak’s twin, Crestone Needle (Class 4) – many climbers do both from the same South Colony Lakes camp, either back-to-back or via the traverse. From there the Elk Range Class 4 peaks (Capitol, the Maroons, Pyramid) are the endgame; the sustained scrambling and long days you build on Crestone Peak transfer directly.

The routes

One standard line handles the vast majority – plus a snow route and a famous traverse.

Route 1 — South Face via the Red Gully (standard)

The standard line climbs the south face via Broken Hand Pass and the Red Gully. Most parties break it into a 5-to-6-mile approach day to South Colony Lakes camp and a summit day of 8 to 12 hours; strong, fit climbers occasionally do the whole thing car-to-car in a single 14-to-18-hour push. The distinctive feature is the loss-and-regain: you climb to Broken Hand Pass, then lose 500 to 600 ft into Cottonwood Lake basin before the real climbing begins — elevation you have to earn back on the way home.

~9,000 ft

South Colony Lakes Trailhead
2WD lot off Custer County Road 119 (a rough 4WD road continues higher). Limited parking — arrive early on weekends.

11,700 ft

South Colony Lakes camp
5–6 miles in, ~4–5 hours with a full pack. Free dispersed wilderness camping in a spectacular basin below the Crestones.

12,900 ft

Broken Hand Pass
~1,200 ft of climbing to the saddle between Broken Hand Peak and Crestone Needle. Early season may hold a snowfield needing an ice axe.

12,300 ft

Cottonwood Lake basin
Descend 500–600 ft into the basin below the peak — the elevation you’ll regain on the return.

12,700 ft

Red Gully base
Follow cairns to the foot of the couloir. Water, food, and a mental gear-up before the sustained climbing.

14,100 ft

The notch
~2,000 ft of sustained Class 3 up the Red Gully on grippy conglomerate to the notch at the top of the couloir.

14,294 ft

Western summit
From the notch, scramble left up conglomerate ledges — a short, semi-exposed finish that can feel harder than the gully. The eastern summit (~30 ft lower) is a quick optional add-on.

Route 2 — Northwest Couloir (snow route)

An early-season alternative from the Crestone village side, best in May and June when consolidated snow fills the couloir for classic Colorado snow climbing. It needs crampons, an ice axe, and rope-team capability, and it melts out into loose, unpleasant talus by late summer. Most parties on it are experienced Colorado alpinists; guides rarely operate here.

Route 3 — Crestone Peak to Crestone Needle Traverse (advanced)

One of Colorado’s most famous 14er linkups: a half-mile of Class 5 climbing between the twin summits, usually taking 3 to 5 hours, with many parties roping up for the exposed sections. Most climbers summit Crestone Peak first, traverse to the Needle, then descend the Needle’s standard route. It rewards real rock-climbing competence, and it isn’t a place to learn it.

Know the true grade before you commitSome famous Crestones “tours” cross into alpine terrain — the Peak-to-Needle traverse is Class 5, and the Northwest Couloir is a snow climb. Read each route’s real grade, not just its reputation, and bring a rope and the skills where the route calls for them.

Summit day, hour by hour

From South Colony Lakes camp — one of the longest 14er summit days in the state.

04:00

Wake at camp (11,700 ft)
Typically 30–40°F even in summer. Quick breakfast, gear check, helmet on, headlamp ready.

04:30–05:00

Depart camp
Head up toward Broken Hand Pass. The morning’s main work is the climb to the pass.

05:00–07:00

Climb to Broken Hand Pass (12,900 ft)
~1,200 ft of gain; often the day’s most arduous stretch in the early dark. Sunrise usually lands here.

07:00–08:00

Descend to Cottonwood basin (12,300 ft)
Give back 500–600 ft — psychologically tough, since you’ll regain it later.

08:30–10:30

Red Gully (to ~14,100 ft)
~2,000 ft of sustained Class 3 on conglomerate. Positive holds throughout; steady, focused movement at altitude.

11:00–11:30

Western summit (14,294 ft)
Views across the Sangres to the Great Sand Dunes. Add the eastern summit if you like, then start down — the clock is now the enemy.

11:30–15:30

Descend to camp
Down-climb the gully (nearly as slow as the ascent), regain Broken Hand Pass, then drop to camp. Watch the sky — afternoon storms build fast.

Afternoon lightning is the real hazardColorado’s summer monsoon (mid-July through August) fires thunderstorms most days between about 11am and 2pm, and the Red Gully and summit are exposed lightning targets. Crestone Peak’s length makes timing unforgiving: if you’re not summiting by ~10:30–11:00, you’re descending exposed terrain into the danger window. The pre-dawn start is the margin that keeps you safe here — treat it as mandatory.

When to climb

Late June to mid-October, with a clear sweet spot.

Late June–early July: the Red Gully still holds snow; bring an ice axe and crampons, enjoy the best wildflowers and thinner crowds. Mid-July–mid-August: peak season — the gully is melted out and clean, but the monsoon is at its most aggressive, so pre-dawn starts are essential. Mid-August–mid-September: the sweet spot most experienced climbers prefer — excellent conditions, easing afternoon weather, thinner crowds. Mid-September–mid-October: stable autumn weather, golden aspens on the approach, cold starts, and the first summit snow late in the window. Winter is a serious mountaineering objective with real avalanche exposure in the gully and a road that closes by late October.

2026 costs

One of Colorado’s best-value big days — free to climb independently.

Guided pricing runs higher per day than for drive-up 14ers because the backpacking approach, overnight high camp, and 12-to-14-mile length all add complexity, and few operators work the Sangres. If you want a guide, book 4–6 months ahead for summer dates.

Gear checklist

Backpacking kit for the camp plus scrambling kit for the gully.

Leave No Trace in the SangresThe Crestones get steady trail-stewardship work from the Rocky Mountain Field Institute (RMFI). Stay on established trails, camp on durable surfaces at least 200 ft from water, and pack out all waste — WAG bags above treeline — to protect a heavily-used basin and the indigenous heritage of this range.

Frequently asked questions

How tall is Crestone Peak and where is it?

14,294 ft (4,357 m) in the Sangre de Cristo Range of southern Colorado — the 7th-highest peak in the state and 2nd in the range after Blanca Peak (14,345 ft). It has twin summits, the western being the high point (~30 ft above the eastern), and anchors the Crestone group with Crestone Needle, Kit Carson Peak, and Challenger Point.

How difficult is it?

Class 3 by grade, but harder than most Class 3 14ers because of length and sustained scrambling: ~1,200 ft to Broken Hand Pass, a 500–600 ft drop into Cottonwood basin, then ~2,000 ft of continuous Class 3 up the Red Gully. Round trip is ~12–14 miles with ~5,200 ft of gain — one of the longest standard 14er days in Colorado.

What’s the standard route?

The South Face via Broken Hand Pass and the Red Gully. From the South Colony Lakes Trailhead, hike ~5–6 miles to camp, climb to Broken Hand Pass, descend into Cottonwood basin, then scramble ~2,000 ft of sustained Class 3 up the Red Gully to a notch, and finish up conglomerate ledges to the summit.

What is the Crestone Conglomerate?

The rock the Crestones are built from — a hardened conglomerate with rounded 2–6 inch stones embedded halfway out, acting as positive holds. It’s unusually solid and grippy, which is why sustained Class 3–4 climbing is possible on walls that would otherwise be far more committing.

When is the best time to climb?

Mid-July to mid-September, within a late-June to mid-October season. The gully holds snow into early July (ice axe and crampons then). Because of the summer monsoon, start pre-dawn to summit and descend before afternoon thunderstorms.

How much does it cost in 2026?

Free to climb independently — no permits or fees, free camping. Budget for fuel, food, and lodging in Westcliffe or Crestone ($80–$220/night). Guided programs run ~$1,000–$2,500 per person for 2–3 days.

Can I climb Crestone Peak and Crestone Needle together?

Yes — a classic Sangres objective. Do them on consecutive days from South Colony Lakes camp (3–4 days total), or link them with the Class 5 Peak-to-Needle traverse, one of Colorado’s most famous 14er linkups. The traverse needs real rock-climbing skill and a rope for most parties.

How does it compare to Capitol Peak or the Maroon Bells?

It sits just below them — Class 3 sustained versus their Class 4 — and it’s excellent preparation. Capitol adds the committing Knife Edge on solid rock; the Maroons and Pyramid add loose, dangerous rock. A common order is Crestone Peak → Crestone Needle → the Elk Range Class 4 peaks.

How this guide is built

Research-based, cross-referenced with Colorado 14er field knowledge. Elevations, distances, route detail, and history are compiled from USGS survey data, 14ers.com, the Colorado Fourteeners Initiative, the Rocky Mountain Field Institute, and Forest Service sources. Figures are approximate and can differ between sources; feet are primary here, with metric in parentheses, for a US fourteener.

Trailhead access, road condition, snow level, RMFI stewardship status, and weather change every season and can differ on your dates. Confirm current conditions with the Forest Service, recent trip reports, and a current mountain forecast before you climb.

Walker Ludlow

Climber & Trail/Gear Research, Global Summit Guide

Walker researches Global Summit Guide’s US mountain and 14er coverage, focusing on route logistics, gear, and honest difficulty framing. This guide is research-based and cross-referenced with Colorado 14er field knowledge; safety and route content is reviewed by Dawson Ludlow. Our aim is to help climbers judge whether Crestone Peak matches their experience — because its Class 3 grade undersells how big a day it really is.

Plan your Colorado 14er climb

Colorado 14ers complete guide · Best mountains to climb in Colorado · Mount Sneffels · Capitol Peak · Blanca Peak · Longs Peak

Explore the mountain database

Browse all mountains · Filter the full mountain list · Which mountain should you climb? · Fitness standards

One of Colorado’s finest Class 3 days

Great rock, a wild Sangres setting, and a sustained Red Gully that punches above its grade. Come with the scrambling miles, the backpacking legs, and an early alarm — Crestone Peak rewards the prepared.Colorado 14ers guide →Next step: Capitol Peak →

🏔️ Colorado 14er · Sangre de Cristo Range · Class 3 · 2026

Crestone Peak: The Red Gully Route, Class 3 Difficulty & 2026 Guide

Colorado’s 7th-highest summit and one of its most demanding “non-technical” fourteeners – a 2,000-foot sustained Class 3 scramble up the famous Crestone Conglomerate. Here’s how to climb it, and who’s ready for it.

By Walker Ludlow · Trail & Route Research · Safety review: Dawson Ludlow

Updated July 12, 2026 · Last verified: July 12, 2026 · Reading time 11 minutes

Editorial approach: RESEARCH-BASED, cross-referenced with Colorado 14er field knowledge. Elevations, distances, and route detail are compiled from USGS data, 14ers.com, the Colorado Fourteeners Initiative, and Forest Service sources. Trailhead access, snow, and RMFI stewardship status change each season – verify current conditions before you go.

⚡ The short version

Crestone Peak is a Class 3 fourteener that climbs harder than its grade. The moves are Class 3, but the 2,000-foot Red Gully delivers more sustained scrambling than almost any other Class 3 14er, on top of a 12-to-14-mile day with a loss-and-regain over Broken Hand Pass. It feels closer to alpine climbing than a typical 14er hike.

The saving grace is the rock. The Crestone Conglomerate – embedded stones sticking out like natural holds – is famously grippy, which is exactly why sustained Class 3 is even possible here. Come with real Class 3 experience, backpacking legs for the South Colony Lakes approach, and a pre-dawn start to beat the storms.

14,294 ft

Summit (4,357 m) · 7th in CO

Class 3

Sustained · Red Gully

~5,200 ft

Gain · 12–14 mi round trip

1916

First ascent · Ellingwood & Davis

On this page

1. At a glance
2. Why it stands apart
3. Map & live weather
4. Who should climb it
5. Where it fits in the progression
6. The routes
7. Summit day, hour by hour
8. When to climb
9. 2026 costs
10. Gear checklist
11. FAQ

Crestone Peak at a glance

The essential reference facts. Detail follows below.

Summit elevation	14,294 ft (4,357 m) – western summit; eastern summit ~30 ft lower
Location	Sangre de Cristo Range, southern Colorado (Saguache / Custer county line)
Coordinates	37.9668° N, 105.5853° W
Colorado rank	7th-highest peak in Colorado
Range rank	2nd in the Sangre de Cristo Range (after Blanca Peak, 14,345 ft)
Standard route	South Face via Broken Hand Pass & the Red Gully (Class 3, sustained)
Rock	Crestone Conglomerate – embedded-knob geology, unusually grippy
High camp	South Colony Lakes (~11,700 ft); ~5–6 miles from the trailhead
Round trip	~12–14 miles · ~5,200 ft total gain (includes the Broken Hand Pass loss-and-regain)
Summit day	8–12 hours from camp
Best season	Mid-July to mid-September (season runs late June to mid-October)
Permits / fees	None – free access, free wilderness camping
2026 guided cost	~$1,000–$2,500 per person (2–3 day program)
Wilderness	Sangre de Cristo Wilderness (designated 1993); RMFI trail stewardship

Why Crestone Peak stands apart

Great rock, a wild setting, and a route longer than almost any other standard 14er.

Crestone Peak holds a precise place in Colorado climbing. It ranks below Colorado’s tallest 14er, Mount Elbert, and below Blanca Peak, the high point of its own range. What it owns is a reputation: among climbers who have done many fourteeners, Crestone Peak is simply “The Peak,” a byword for a long, sustained, beautiful Class 3 day on some of the best rock in the state. It was also one of the last major Colorado 14ers to be climbed, holding out until 1916, because early visitors thought its conglomerate walls had no reasonable route.

The Crestone Conglomerate

The Crestones owe their climbable reputation to their rock. Crestone Conglomerate is a hardened sedimentary rock studded with rounded stones roughly 2 to 6 inches across, embedded halfway out of the matrix. Those knobs act as positive hand and foot holds, so sustained Class 3 and 4 climbing works on walls that would be far more committing on smooth granite. Climbers routinely describe the rock as grippy and confidence-inspiring, and the effect is real enough that visiting climbers travel a long way to feel it. On 3,000-foot conglomerate walls, that grip is what makes the difference between a scramble and a serious technical climb.

The Red Gully

The route’s centerpiece is the Red Gully (also called the Red Couloir), a roughly 2,000-foot sustained Class 3 scramble that climbs the south face directly to a notch just below the summit. Unlike most Class 3 fourteeners, where the scrambling is brief and punctuated by walking, the Red Gully is continuous, steepening in two bands on the way to the notch. That sustained character – hundreds of feet of hands-on movement at over 13,000 ft – is what makes Crestone Peak climb harder than its Class 3 grade suggests, and why it’s such good training for the Class 4 peaks that follow.

Map & live weather

Crestone Peak sits deep in the Sangre de Cristo Wilderness above South Colony Lakes.

Summit: 14,294 ft Broken Hand Pass: ~12,900 ft High camp: South Colony Lakes (~11,700 ft) Trailhead: ~9,000 ft (2WD lot)

South Colony Lakes (~11,700 ft) – live forecast

Loading live data…

Fetching the latest forecast…

Live forecast unavailable right now. Check a Crestone Peak / South Colony Lakes mountain forecast before you go.

Basin weather, not summit weather. This forecast is for the South Colony Lakes basin (~11,700 ft). The summit at 14,294 ft is colder and windier, and Colorado’s summer monsoon builds afternoon thunderstorms most days – a pre-dawn start is the standard safety margin.

Who should climb it

More than most Class 3 14ers demand – be honest about scrambling endurance and exposure.

Crestone Peak sits above most Class 3 fourteeners but below true Class 4. Honest self-assessment matters here, especially about sustained scrambling stamina and comfort on prolonged exposure. It’s a strong fit if you:

A good fit if you…	Not yet, if you…
Have two or three Class 3 14ers done (Sneffels, Wetterhorn, Longs)	Have no sustained Class 3 scrambling experience yet
Are building toward Class 4 peaks like Capitol Peak or the Maroon Bells	Want a drive-up trailhead – the 5–6 mile pack-in is non-negotiable
Are comfortable backpacking to an ~11,700 ft high camp	Are on a rigid schedule with no weather buffer
Want a sustained, aesthetic Sangres climb on superb rock	Struggle psychologically with prolonged exposure at altitude
Will commit to a pre-dawn start to beat the storms	Can’t commit to a 3–5am start during monsoon season

Where it fits in your Colorado 14er progression

The standard step between the easy Class 3 peaks and the Class 4 hardest.

Stage	Peak / experience	Difficulty
Foundation	Bierstadt, Sherman, Elbert	Class 1 walk-ups
Scrambles	Quandary, Massive, Grays	Class 2
First Class 3	Longs (Keyhole), Sneffels, Wetterhorn	Class 3, brief
The Crestone Peak step	Crestone Peak – South Face / Red Gully	Class 3 sustained
Class 4 fourteeners	Crestone Needle, Little Bear	Class 4
The Crestone Traverse	Peak-to-Needle linkup	Class 5 (rope common)
Hardest 14ers	Capitol, Maroon, Pyramid	Class 4–5

The natural next step is Crestone Peak’s twin, Crestone Needle (Class 4) – many climbers do both from the same South Colony Lakes camp, either back-to-back or via the traverse. From there the Elk Range Class 4 peaks (Capitol, the Maroons, Pyramid) are the endgame; the sustained scrambling and long days you build on Crestone Peak transfer directly.

The routes

One standard line handles the vast majority – plus a snow route and a famous traverse.

Route	Difficulty	Round trip	Who
South Face via Red Gully (standard)	Class 3 sustained	~12–14 mi	~90% of climbers
Northwest Couloir	Class 3–4 with snow	~10–12 mi	Early-season snow climbers
Peak → Needle Traverse	Class 5 climbing	~14–15 mi	Advanced only

Route 1 — South Face via the Red Gully (standard)

The standard line climbs the south face via Broken Hand Pass and the Red Gully. Most parties break it into a 5-to-6-mile approach day to South Colony Lakes camp and a summit day of 8 to 12 hours; strong, fit climbers occasionally do the whole thing car-to-car in a single 14-to-18-hour push. The distinctive feature is the loss-and-regain: you climb to Broken Hand Pass, then lose 500 to 600 ft into Cottonwood Lake basin before the real climbing begins — elevation you have to earn back on the way home.

~9,000 ft

South Colony Lakes Trailhead
2WD lot off Custer County Road 119 (a rough 4WD road continues higher). Limited parking — arrive early on weekends.

11,700 ft

South Colony Lakes camp
5–6 miles in, ~4–5 hours with a full pack. Free dispersed wilderness camping in a spectacular basin below the Crestones.

12,900 ft

Broken Hand Pass
~1,200 ft of climbing to the saddle between Broken Hand Peak and Crestone Needle. Early season may hold a snowfield needing an ice axe.

12,300 ft

Cottonwood Lake basin
Descend 500–600 ft into the basin below the peak — the elevation you’ll regain on the return.

12,700 ft

Red Gully base
Follow cairns to the foot of the couloir. Water, food, and a mental gear-up before the sustained climbing.

14,100 ft

The notch
~2,000 ft of sustained Class 3 up the Red Gully on grippy conglomerate to the notch at the top of the couloir.

14,294 ft

Western summit
From the notch, scramble left up conglomerate ledges — a short, semi-exposed finish that can feel harder than the gully. The eastern summit (~30 ft lower) is a quick optional add-on.

Route 2 — Northwest Couloir (snow route)

An early-season alternative from the Crestone village side, best in May and June when consolidated snow fills the couloir for classic Colorado snow climbing. It needs crampons, an ice axe, and rope-team capability, and it melts out into loose, unpleasant talus by late summer. Most parties on it are experienced Colorado alpinists; guides rarely operate here.

Route 3 — Crestone Peak to Crestone Needle Traverse (advanced)

One of Colorado’s most famous 14er linkups: a half-mile of Class 5 climbing between the twin summits, usually taking 3 to 5 hours, with many parties roping up for the exposed sections. Most climbers summit Crestone Peak first, traverse to the Needle, then descend the Needle’s standard route. It rewards real rock-climbing competence, and it isn’t a place to learn it.

Know the true grade before you commitSome famous Crestones “tours” cross into alpine terrain — the Peak-to-Needle traverse is Class 5, and the Northwest Couloir is a snow climb. Read each route’s real grade, not just its reputation, and bring a rope and the skills where the route calls for them.

Summit day, hour by hour

From South Colony Lakes camp — one of the longest 14er summit days in the state.

04:00

Wake at camp (11,700 ft)
Typically 30–40°F even in summer. Quick breakfast, gear check, helmet on, headlamp ready.

04:30–05:00

Depart camp
Head up toward Broken Hand Pass. The morning’s main work is the climb to the pass.

05:00–07:00

Climb to Broken Hand Pass (12,900 ft)
~1,200 ft of gain; often the day’s most arduous stretch in the early dark. Sunrise usually lands here.

07:00–08:00

Descend to Cottonwood basin (12,300 ft)
Give back 500–600 ft — psychologically tough, since you’ll regain it later.

08:30–10:30

Red Gully (to ~14,100 ft)
~2,000 ft of sustained Class 3 on conglomerate. Positive holds throughout; steady, focused movement at altitude.

11:00–11:30

Western summit (14,294 ft)
Views across the Sangres to the Great Sand Dunes. Add the eastern summit if you like, then start down — the clock is now the enemy.

11:30–15:30

Descend to camp
Down-climb the gully (nearly as slow as the ascent), regain Broken Hand Pass, then drop to camp. Watch the sky — afternoon storms build fast.

Afternoon lightning is the real hazardColorado’s summer monsoon (mid-July through August) fires thunderstorms most days between about 11am and 2pm, and the Red Gully and summit are exposed lightning targets. Crestone Peak’s length makes timing unforgiving: if you’re not summiting by ~10:30–11:00, you’re descending exposed terrain into the danger window. The pre-dawn start is the margin that keeps you safe here — treat it as mandatory.

When to climb

Late June to mid-October, with a clear sweet spot.

Late June–early July: the Red Gully still holds snow; bring an ice axe and crampons, enjoy the best wildflowers and thinner crowds. Mid-July–mid-August: peak season — the gully is melted out and clean, but the monsoon is at its most aggressive, so pre-dawn starts are essential. Mid-August–mid-September: the sweet spot most experienced climbers prefer — excellent conditions, easing afternoon weather, thinner crowds. Mid-September–mid-October: stable autumn weather, golden aspens on the approach, cold starts, and the first summit snow late in the window. Winter is a serious mountaineering objective with real avalanche exposure in the gully and a road that closes by late October.

2026 costs

One of Colorado’s best-value big days — free to climb independently.

Cost	2026 (USD)	Notes
Forest / wilderness entry	$0	No permits, no fees
Trailhead parking	$0	Free; limited, arrive early
South Colony Lakes camping	$0	Free dispersed wilderness camping
Lodging (Westcliffe / Crestone)	$80–$220/night	Small towns, limited options
Fuel + food	$30–$80/day	~360 miles each way from Denver
Guided (2–3 day program)	$1,000–$2,500 pp	Peak-and-Needle programs at the top end

Guided pricing runs higher per day than for drive-up 14ers because the backpacking approach, overnight high camp, and 12-to-14-mile length all add complexity, and few operators work the Sangres. If you want a guide, book 4–6 months ahead for summer dates.

Gear checklist

Backpacking kit for the camp plus scrambling kit for the gully.

Category	Bring
Approach & camp	60–75L pack, 3-season tent, bag rated to ~20°F, insulated pad, stove/fuel, water filter, WAG bags, bear canister or bag
Summit day	25–35L daypack, helmet (required), sturdy boots, trekking poles for the loss-and-regain, gaiters for early-season snow
Clothing	Base layers, hiking pants, fleece/insulated mid-layer, warm insulated jacket, hardshell jacket + pants (storm protection is essential), hat, gloves
Safety & food	3–4L water capacity, snacks/meals, sun protection, headlamp + spare batteries, first-aid, emergency bivy, map/compass or GPS, offline maps
Early season (May–early July)	Crampons, ice axe, and stiffer boots for the snow-filled couloir

Leave No Trace in the SangresThe Crestones get steady trail-stewardship work from the Rocky Mountain Field Institute (RMFI). Stay on established trails, camp on durable surfaces at least 200 ft from water, and pack out all waste — WAG bags above treeline — to protect a heavily-used basin and the indigenous heritage of this range.

Frequently asked questions

How tall is Crestone Peak and where is it?

14,294 ft (4,357 m) in the Sangre de Cristo Range of southern Colorado — the 7th-highest peak in the state and 2nd in the range after Blanca Peak (14,345 ft). It has twin summits, the western being the high point (~30 ft above the eastern), and anchors the Crestone group with Crestone Needle, Kit Carson Peak, and Challenger Point.

How difficult is it?

Class 3 by grade, but harder than most Class 3 14ers because of length and sustained scrambling: ~1,200 ft to Broken Hand Pass, a 500–600 ft drop into Cottonwood basin, then ~2,000 ft of continuous Class 3 up the Red Gully. Round trip is ~12–14 miles with ~5,200 ft of gain — one of the longest standard 14er days in Colorado.

What’s the standard route?

The South Face via Broken Hand Pass and the Red Gully. From the South Colony Lakes Trailhead, hike ~5–6 miles to camp, climb to Broken Hand Pass, descend into Cottonwood basin, then scramble ~2,000 ft of sustained Class 3 up the Red Gully to a notch, and finish up conglomerate ledges to the summit.

What is the Crestone Conglomerate?

The rock the Crestones are built from — a hardened conglomerate with rounded 2–6 inch stones embedded halfway out, acting as positive holds. It’s unusually solid and grippy, which is why sustained Class 3–4 climbing is possible on walls that would otherwise be far more committing.

When is the best time to climb?

Mid-July to mid-September, within a late-June to mid-October season. The gully holds snow into early July (ice axe and crampons then). Because of the summer monsoon, start pre-dawn to summit and descend before afternoon thunderstorms.

How much does it cost in 2026?

Free to climb independently — no permits or fees, free camping. Budget for fuel, food, and lodging in Westcliffe or Crestone ($80–$220/night). Guided programs run ~$1,000–$2,500 per person for 2–3 days.

Can I climb Crestone Peak and Crestone Needle together?

Yes — a classic Sangres objective. Do them on consecutive days from South Colony Lakes camp (3–4 days total), or link them with the Class 5 Peak-to-Needle traverse, one of Colorado’s most famous 14er linkups. The traverse needs real rock-climbing skill and a rope for most parties.

How does it compare to Capitol Peak or the Maroon Bells?

It sits just below them — Class 3 sustained versus their Class 4 — and it’s excellent preparation. Capitol adds the committing Knife Edge on solid rock; the Maroons and Pyramid add loose, dangerous rock. A common order is Crestone Peak → Crestone Needle → the Elk Range Class 4 peaks.

How this guide is built

Research-based, cross-referenced with Colorado 14er field knowledge. Elevations, distances, route detail, and history are compiled from USGS survey data, 14ers.com, the Colorado Fourteeners Initiative, the Rocky Mountain Field Institute, and Forest Service sources. Figures are approximate and can differ between sources; feet are primary here, with metric in parentheses, for a US fourteener.

Trailhead access, road condition, snow level, RMFI stewardship status, and weather change every season and can differ on your dates. Confirm current conditions with the Forest Service, recent trip reports, and a current mountain forecast before you climb.

Walker Ludlow

Climber & Trail/Gear Research, Global Summit Guide

Walker researches Global Summit Guide’s US mountain and 14er coverage, focusing on route logistics, gear, and honest difficulty framing. This guide is research-based and cross-referenced with Colorado 14er field knowledge; safety and route content is reviewed by Dawson Ludlow. Our aim is to help climbers judge whether Crestone Peak matches their experience — because its Class 3 grade undersells how big a day it really is.

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One of Colorado’s finest Class 3 days

Great rock, a wild Sangres setting, and a sustained Red Gully that punches above its grade. Come with the scrambling miles, the backpacking legs, and an early alarm — Crestone Peak rewards the prepared.

Colorado 14ers guide → Next step: Capitol Peak →