Global Summit Guide · Canadian Rockies · Banff National Park, Alberta
Mount Temple — Alberta, Canada
Complete guide: SW Ridge scramble, East Ridge (50 Classic Climbs of North America), North Face, all routes, Moraine Lake shuttle access — the highest peak in the Lake Louise area and the first 11,000-footer ever climbed in the Canadian Rockies.
Global Summit Guide · Parent Page
Ultimate Mount Temple Guide: SW Ridge Scramble, East Ridge 50 Classic & All Routes
Mount Temple occupies a unique position in the Canadian Rockies: it is simultaneously one of the most popular mountain objectives in the entire range and one of the most respected technical alpine routes. At 3,544 m (11,627 ft), it is the highest peak in the Lake Louise area and the first 11,000-foot peak ever climbed in the Canadian Rockies (1894). Its hulking presence dominates the view above Moraine Lake — the turquoise glacial lake photographed by millions of Banff visitors — and the mountain is visible from the Trans-Canada Highway for much of the drive between Castle Junction and Lake Louise.
The range of experience Temple accommodates is exceptional. The Southwest Ridge scramble (Grade I) is the most popular non-glaciated 11,000er scramble in Canada, attracting experienced hikers and beginner alpinists alike. The East Ridge (Grade IV, 5.7, D) is featured in Steck & Roper’s Fifty Classic Climbs of North America and is described by locals as “perhaps the best and most famous alpine rock ridge in the entire Canadian Rockies” — a genuine multi-pitch technical alpine route with up to 20-hour car-to-car days. The North Face (Greenwood–Locke Route) earned Temple the nickname “Eiger of North America” when it was first climbed in 1966, paving the way for a decade of bold north-wall ascents across the range.
Access is through Moraine Lake — a National Geographic cover image multiple times over — reached entirely by Parks Canada shuttle (Moraine Lake Road is permanently closed to private vehicles). The Larch Valley approach trail, grizzly bear group-size restrictions, and the mandatory Banff National Park pass all define the logistics of a Temple day.
At a Glance
Mount Temple Quick Facts
| Category | Details |
|---|---|
| Elevation | 11,627 ft / 3,544 m |
| Location | Banff National Park, Alberta — Lake Louise area — above Moraine Lake |
| Range | Canadian Rockies — Bow Range |
| Rank | Highest peak in Lake Louise area; ~9th highest in the Canadian Rockies |
| Historical Distinction | First 11,000-foot peak ever climbed in the Canadian Rockies (1894) |
| Named By | George Mercer Dawson, 1884 — for Sir Richard Temple who visited the Rockies that year |
| Standard Route | SW Ridge scramble (Grade I) via Larch Valley → Sentinel Pass — non-technical in dry conditions |
| Classic Technical Route | East Ridge (Grade IV, 5.7 / D) — 50 Classic Climbs of North America — 1,000 m — 12–20 hrs car-to-car |
| North Face | Greenwood–Locke Route (1966) — earned Temple the nickname “Eiger of North America” |
| Access | Parks Canada shuttle only — Moraine Lake Road permanently closed to private vehicles |
| Bears | Grizzly habitat — Larch Valley requires groups of 4+ — check current restrictions |
| No Camping | Camping not permitted in Larch Valley or on the mountain |
| First Ascent | August 17, 1894 — Walter D. Wilcox, Samuel E.S. Allen & Lewis Frissell via SW Ridge |
| East Ridge First Ascent | August 17, 1931 — Hans Wittich & Otto Stegmaier |
| North Face First Ascent | 1966 — Brian Greenwood & Charlie Locke |
History & Landmarks
First Canadian Rockies 11,000er — 1894 to the Eiger Comparison
Named for Sir Richard Temple, 1884
Mount Temple was named by the surveyor George Mercer Dawson in 1884 — the same year Dawson named Mount Assiniboine — for Sir Richard Temple, a British administrator and writer who visited the Canadian Rockies that year as part of a British Association expedition. Temple had a distinguished career in the Indian Civil Service and was a prolific writer on economics and travel. The peak’s name is one of the most straightforward in the Rockies; it honors a visitor rather than an Indigenous tradition, a geographic feature, or a surveying first.
First Ascent, August 17, 1894 — A Historic Milestone
On August 17, 1894, Walter D. Wilcox, Samuel E.S. Allen, and Lewis Frissell made the first ascent of Mount Temple via the Southwest Ridge — becoming the first party ever to climb an 11,000-foot peak in the Canadian Rockies. The ascent was achieved at a time when systematic exploration of the Rockies was still in its earliest stages. Wilcox and Allen were American Yale students who became two of the most important early explorers of the Bow Valley region; Allen created the first maps of the Lake Louise area and named the Valley of the Ten Peaks (originally giving the peaks Stoney/Nakoda numbers: Heejee, Nom, Yamnee, etc.). Their 1894 ascent of Temple set the benchmark for what was possible and inspired a generation of Rockies mountaineers.
The 1955 Tragedy — Seven Lives Lost
On July 11, 1955, one of Canada’s most tragic mountaineering accidents occurred on Mount Temple’s SW Ridge. Seven American male teenagers were killed when an avalanche swept their party during a descent. The factors were devastating in combination: a warm summer day had destabilized the snowpack; the entire party of ten climbers had only a single ice axe among them; they were not well prepared for the conditions; and critically, the party had gone up without either of their two group leaders. An avalanche swept ten members 200 m (656 ft) down the snowfield through a bottleneck of rocks. Seven did not survive. The event remains one of the most-referenced cautionary examples in Canadian Rockies safety education and is cited by Parks Canada in its scrambler’s guide to this day.
East Ridge First Ascent, 1931
The East Ridge was first climbed on August 17, 1931 by Hans Wittich and Otto Stegmaier — the same calendar date as the 1894 first ascent of the mountain, though 37 years later. The route’s inclusion in Steck & Roper’s 1979 Fifty Classic Climbs of North America brought it wide attention. Mountain Project notes it as “likely the best” of the Canadian Rockies selections in the 50 Classics: achieving “the ideal mix between difficulty and safety, the route offers a mellow approach, consistently excellent and sustained climbing, magnificent views, relatively bomber rock and a carefree descent.”
The North Face & the Eiger Comparison, 1966
Temple’s massive North Face — over a mile wide and nearly 5,000 feet high, visible from paved roads — attracted attention as Canada’s answer to the Eiger Nordwand from the early 1960s. Attempts began in 1962. In 1966, Brian Greenwood (a Yorkshire-born climber who emigrated to Canada in 1955 and rewrote the history of Rockies climbing) and Charlie Locke made the first ascent of the North Face, establishing what became the Greenwood–Locke Route. Mountain Project describes it as “an impressive step forward that paved the way for an unparalleled decade of daring ascents on north walls throughout the range.” Greenwood is one of the legendary figures of Canadian Rockies climbing, with a career including the first ascent of the North Face of Ha Ling, the Grand Sentinel, and dozens of other Rockies routes.
Getting There
Moraine Lake Shuttle — No Private Vehicles Permitted
Moraine Lake Road is permanently closed to private vehicles. All visitors to Moraine Lake — whether hikers, scramblers, or climbers — must use the Parks Canada shuttle system. This is a critical planning detail that catches many visitors off guard.
🚌 Moraine Lake Shuttle — What to Know
- Shuttle departure point: Park Shuttle main stop at Samson Mall (Lake Louise Village shopping centre), accessible from the Trans-Canada Hwy (AB-1) at the Lake Louise exit. Some shuttles also run from Banff and Canmore — check the Parks Canada website for current season options.
- Book in advance: Shuttle seats to Moraine Lake sell out days to weeks in advance in peak summer season. Book at pc.gc.ca →. The 4:30 AM shuttles are essential for early climbing starts — these fill first.
- For climbing programs: Guided services (Cloud Nine Guides, Yamnuska) typically coordinate shuttle access as part of their programs. Guides may escort clients from Canmore or the Lake Louise area to the shuttle departure point. Confirm logistics with your guide service when booking.
- East Ridge approach: The East Ridge approach departs from a pullout on the south side of Moraine Lake Road, approximately 1–2 km below the main Moraine Lake parking area. Ask your shuttle driver or guide about the correct East Ridge drop-off point.
- Getting to Lake Louise: Drive the Trans-Canada Hwy (AB-1) west from Calgary approximately 185 km (~2 hours) or east from Revelstoke (~3 hours). Lake Louise Village has accommodation, a grocery store, and gas. Banff townsite is ~55 km east with full services.
Grizzly Bear Group-Size Restrictions
Parks Canada periodically restricts party size on the Larch Valley and Paradise Valley trails due to grizzly bear activity. When restrictions are in effect, groups of 4 or more are required. Check current restrictions at the Lake Louise Visitor Centre or call (403) 522-1264 before your trip. The scramble route above Sentinel Pass is typically not included in this restriction, but verify before departure. Groups form naturally at the trailhead; be prepared to wait or coordinate with other parties if you arrive solo or as a pair.
Complete Route Listing
All Trails & Routes on Mount Temple
Mount Temple offers a remarkable range of difficulty from a popular scramble to one of the most respected alpine rock ridges in North America. Unlike Robson, Assiniboine, and Waddington, Temple has a genuine non-technical route accessible to strong hikers.
| # | Route Name | Grade | First Ascent | Character & Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | SW Ridge (Standard Scramble) | Grade I Scramble | 1894 — Wilcox, Allen & Frissell | Most popular route. Larch Valley → Sentinel Pass → SW Ridge → 3 cliff bands. 16 km round trip, 1,690 m gain, 8–13 hrs. Crux: polished 3–5 m steps with 2-bolt anchor. Helmet mandatory. Parks Canada publishes official scrambler’s guide. Non-technical in dry conditions but “frequently underestimated.” |
| 2 | East Ridge | Grade IV · 5.7 (D) · 1,000 m | August 17, 1931 — Wittich & Stegmaier | Featured in 50 Classic Climbs of North America. Best Canadian Rockies 50 Classics selection by consensus. Big Step (200 m buttress, 5.6–5.7), Black Towers traverse, glaciated summit ridge. 12–20 hrs car-to-car. Bivouac option at Big Step for 2-day program. Descent via SW Ridge. 1:1 guide:guest ratio. |
| 3 | North Face (Greenwood–Locke Route) | Grade V+ · Mixed | 1966 — Brian Greenwood & Charlie Locke | “Eiger of North America.” Over a mile wide, nearly 5,000 ft high, visible from Hwy 1. Attempts began 1962. First ascent 1966 paved the way for a decade of Rockies north wall ascents. Serious committing objective on mixed terrain. Rarely climbed. |
| 4 | Northeast Ridge (Ammer Couloir approach) | Grade III–IV | Various | Alternative approach to the East Ridge via the Ammer Couloir from the Paradise Valley parking lot. Used when a different approach to the upper east ridge is preferred. Involves couloir climbing to access the ridge system. |
| 5 | Additional North Face Routes | Grade V–VI · Mixed | Various 1970s–2000s | Multiple routes have been established on the North Face since the 1966 Greenwood–Locke first ascent by many of the continent’s best alpinists. All are committing mixed objectives on the imposing north wall. |
Note: The SW Ridge is the only non-technical route. It still requires scrambling, route-finding through 3 cliff bands, and can involve snow and ice near the summit. It is not appropriate for unprepared hikers — Parks Canada has published a dedicated scrambler’s guide due to the frequency of rescues. The East Ridge requires technical alpine climbing skills and previous multi-pitch trad experience to 5.9.
Primary Route Detail
SW Ridge & East Ridge — Full Descriptions
SW Ridge — Standard Scramble Route
- From Moraine Lake to Larch Valley: Take the early shuttle to Moraine Lake (trailhead at 1,884 m). Walk the northwest shore of the lake past the lodge to the Larch Valley trailhead. Thirteen switchbacks gain 352 m through 2.5 km of forest to the Larch Valley junction. Take the right (north) fork toward Larch Valley/Sentinel Pass. The forest gives way to larches and then open alpine meadows — the famous golden larch display draws crowds in late September, though that is beyond the climbing season window.
- Larch Valley to Sentinel Pass (2,611 m): Continue through Larch Valley to Sentinel Pass. The pass sits at 2,611 m (8,566 ft) and offers a commanding view of the Tower of Babel, Moraine Lake, and the Valley of the Ten Peaks. Grizzly bear group-size restriction may be in effect here — check before departure. From the pass, the scramble begins in earnest.
- Sentinel Pass to the SW Ridge — three cliff bands: Above Sentinel Pass the terrain shifts from hiking trail to steep scree and loose rock with three cliff bands requiring hands-on scrambling. Parks Canada’s guide provides detailed navigation through each band:
• First cliff band: Climb left side of a shallow gully (cairn marks the line). Scramble up rock steps. Do not follow beaten paths into gullies — these lead into rockfall-prone bowls.
• Second cliff band: A 3–5 metre step with polished holds and significant exposure. Two-bolt anchor at the top. Parks Canada suggests considering a rope and belay here. This is the crux of the scramble.
• Third cliff band: Lighter-coloured rock band. Find the break on the left (climber’s perspective) and follow the cairned trail through to regain the ridge. - Summit ridge and summit (3,544 m): Above the third band, the summit ridge comes into view. Switchbacking scree and occasional rock steps lead to the broad summit at 3,544 m. Views encompass Moraine Lake, the Valley of the Ten Peaks, Mount Assiniboine to the south, and the full Lake Louise area including Lake Louise itself, Victoria Glacier, and the Icefields Parkway.
- Descent — same route, extra caution: Descend by the exact route climbed. “No shortcuts!” (Parks Canada). Other gullies may appear inviting or have cairns but lead to dangerous terrain. The polished holds at the second cliff band crux are more treacherous on descent; consider a rappel from the 2-bolt anchor. Do not dislodge rocks when others are below.
- Crampons and ice axe: Required if the route is snow-covered (common before mid-July and possible any time of year near the summit). Boots must be crampon-compatible. The scramble transitions to genuine mountaineering when snow covers the upper ridge.
East Ridge — 50 Classic Climbs of North America
- Approach from Moraine Lake Road: The East Ridge approach begins from a pullout on the south side of Moraine Lake Road, approximately 1–2 km below the Moraine Lake parking area. A short hike alongside an obvious avalanche slope brings you to the base of the ridge. The lower ridge is 4th class scrambling on good quartzite rock through talus and grassy terrain.
- The Big Step (200 m, 5.6–5.7): After several hundred feet of moderate scrambling from the base, you reach the broad shoulder at the foot of The Big Step — the first major technical section and the key bivouac site on 2-day programs. The Big Step is a 200-metre buttress involving 2–3 pitches of sustained 5.6–5.7 climbing on generally excellent quartzite rock. Good protection and some fixed pitons. This is the route’s technical centrepiece and the point at which parties make their most critical judgment about conditions and team speed.
- Upper ridge and Black Towers: Above the Big Step, more moderate scrambling works up the ridge to another lower-angled section. The ridge continues to the Black Towers — dark gray bands of harder rock that form the upper technical barrier. At the Black Towers, locate a prominent ledge system and traverse left several hundred feet (the crux of the upper ridge) before working up and left through gully and chimney systems. Approximately 5 pitches of additional technical climbing bring you through the black band.
- Glaciated summit ridge: Above the Black Towers, the route transitions to the glaciated summit ridge — a long, exposed, corniced traverse that requires crampons and ice axe. This section is one of the most memorable of the entire route: a sustained ridge walk in the sky with dramatic drops on both sides, leading to the final approach to the summit pyramid. A truly classic alpine experience.
- Summit and descent: The summit at 3,544 m. Descent via the SW Ridge scramble route to Moraine Lake — a “carefree” descent that provides a contrasting experience to the technical ascent. The descent via SW Ridge is the standard and takes 3–5 hours to Moraine Lake.
- 50 Classics distinction: The East Ridge of Temple is widely regarded as the strongest inclusion in Steck & Roper’s Canadian Rockies selections — in contrast to Robson’s Wishbone Arête (disputed) or Assiniboine’s North Ridge (not in the book). The route achieves what the best 50 Classics do: sustained, high-quality climbing at a grade that rewards technical skill without requiring extreme commitment, in a spectacular setting with a straightforward descent.
North Face — Greenwood–Locke Route
- Why it earned the “Eiger of North America” label: Temple’s North Face is one of the few major north walls in the Canadian Rockies that is directly visible from a paved highway — the Trans-Canada Hwy offers a prolonged view of the face throughout the Castle Junction to Lake Louise corridor. Its sheer scale (over a mile wide, ~5,000 feet high) and its mixed rock-and-ice character drew direct comparisons to the Eiger Nordwand, and attempts beginning in 1962 had the same “who will first?” atmosphere as the pre-1938 Eiger era.
- Greenwood and Locke, 1966: Brian Greenwood — the Yorkshire-born Canadian climbing legend — and Charlie Locke made the first ascent in 1966 after several years of failed attempts by the strongest climbers in the region. The route is named the Greenwood–Locke Route in their honor. Mountain Project notes that while “in retrospect the route is perhaps not quite as mythical or challenging as the iconic Nordwand, it was an impressive step forward that paved the way for an unparalleled decade of daring ascents on north walls throughout the range.” Locke later became owner of the Lake Louise Ski Resort.
- Brian Greenwood’s legacy: Greenwood is one of the most important figures in Canadian Rockies climbing history. Originally from Yorkshire, England, he arrived in Canada in 1955 and over roughly 20 years rewrote the climbing history of the Rockies, establishing over a dozen new routes on Yamnuska alone plus the Grand Sentinel, the North Face of Ha Ling, routes on Castle Mountain, and many others. The Temple North Face was among his most significant achievements.
- Subsequent routes: Since the Greenwood–Locke first ascent, many of the continent’s best alpinists have added lines to the North Face. All are serious committing mixed objectives on predominantly loose Rockies limestone and quartzite. None are appropriate for parties without extensive Canadian Rockies and mixed climbing experience.
Day Plan
SW Ridge One-Day Program & East Ridge Two-Day Itinerary
SW Ridge — One Day
5:00–6:00 AM — Shuttle Departure & Moraine Lake
6:00–8:00 AM — Larch Valley to Sentinel Pass
8:00 AM – 12:00 PM — SW Ridge Scramble & Summit
12:00–4:00 PM — Descent via SW Ridge & Shuttle Out
East Ridge — Two-Day Program
Day 1, 3:00–5:00 AM — Early Start, Moraine Lake Road Pullout
Day 2 — Black Towers, Summit Ridge & Descent
Regulations & Fees
Banff National Park Passes & Shuttle Booking
| Resource / Fee | What It Covers | How to Book / Cost |
|---|---|---|
| Banff National Park Entry Pass | Mandatory for all visitors to Banff NP including the Moraine Lake / Lake Louise area | ~$25/person/day or annual Discovery Pass — purchase at park gates or online at pc.gc.ca → |
| Moraine Lake Shuttle | Only way to access Moraine Lake — no private vehicles permitted on Moraine Lake Road | Book at pc.gc.ca → or Parks Canada reservation system — sells out weeks in advance in peak season |
| Climbing Registration | Voluntary — no mandatory climbing permit or fee; sign-in log at Lake Louise Visitor Centre recommended | Lake Louise Visitor Centre or call (403) 522-1264 for current route conditions |
| Grizzly Bear Group Restriction | Larch Valley / Paradise Valley trails may require groups of 4 or more depending on current bear activity | Check current restrictions at Lake Louise Visitor Centre or (403) 522-1264 before your trip |
| No Camping | Camping is not permitted in Larch Valley, on the mountain, or in the immediate surrounding area | East Ridge bivouac at the top of the Big Step is the exception for technical climbing programs — verify with Parks Canada |
Seasonal Planning
Best Time to Climb Mount Temple
| Season | Window | Pros | Watch-outs |
|---|---|---|---|
| Summer ★ Primary | Mid-July – August | Snow typically cleared from SW Ridge; most stable weather; Larch Valley trail open; shuttle fully operational; all cliff bands accessible without crampons in good conditions | Moraine Lake shuttle sells out; grizzly restrictions may be in effect; afternoon thunderstorms — summit well before midday; the mountain is busy; rockfall risk increases with crowds |
| September | September | Larch season (golden larches, spectacular photos); fewer crowds on the upper mountain; crisp stable weather possible | Snow increasingly likely on upper route; crampons and ice axe potentially mandatory; some shuttle service reduced after Labor Day |
| Before mid-July | June – early July | Route may be in condition with crampons | Significant snow and ice on upper route transitions SW Ridge to mountaineering territory; cornices present; not appropriate without full winter kit; shuttle may not be running yet |
| Winter | Oct – May | Winter ascents have been done by specialists | Extreme conditions; Moraine Lake Road closed; shuttle not operating; full mountaineering required throughout |
Equipment
Essential Gear for Mount Temple
Gear requirements vary significantly between the SW Ridge scramble and the East Ridge technical climb. Both routes share the Rockies essentials: helmet (mandatory on both for rockfall), waterproof layers, and crampon-compatible boots. The East Ridge adds a full technical rack and glacier gear for the summit ridge.
⛰ SW Ridge — Scramble Kit
- Helmet — mandatory (rockfall from other parties)
- Stiff hiking or approach boots (crampon-compatible)
- Crampons (required if snow present on upper route)
- Ice axe (required if snow on upper route)
- Trekking poles (useful on descent)
- Light harness (for 2-bolt belay at crux if desired)
- 30–40 L daypack with extra layers
- Bear spray (mandatory on approach trails)
🠗 East Ridge — Technical Kit (additional)
- Harness (required)
- Dynamic rope 60 m per team
- Light trad rack (cams + nuts for Big Step)
- Slings ×4 + carabiners + belay device
- Crampons (mandatory for glaciated summit ridge)
- Ice axe (mandatory summit ridge)
- Rock shoes (optional but useful on Big Step in dry conditions)
- Bivouac kit if doing 2-day (lightweight sleeping system)
🌄 Rockies Clothing
- Waterproof hardshell jacket + pants
- Down or synthetic insulating jacket
- Moisture-wicking base layers
- Warm gloves + liner gloves
- Warm hat + buff
- Sunscreen SPF 50+ (high UV at altitude)
- Sunglasses
📡 Essentials & Safety
- Satellite communicator (InReach etc.)
- First aid kit
- Map (GemTrek Banff Lake Louise) + compass
- GPS + downloaded offline maps
- Headlamp + batteries (early starts on East Ridge)
- Bear spray (grizzly country throughout)
- Extra food + water (16 km day on SW Ridge)
Risk & Preparedness
Difficulty & Safety Notes
The 1955 Tragedy — A Permanent Lesson
The death of seven American teenagers on July 11, 1955, remains one of the most cited incidents in Canadian Rockies safety history. The contributing factors were stark: one ice axe among ten climbers, no group leaders present, and a warm summer day destabilizing the snowpack. An avalanche swept the party 200 m through a bottleneck of rocks. Parks Canada references this event in its current scrambler’s guide. Mount Temple is popular enough that the risk of underestimation is real — the mountain’s accessibility from Moraine Lake draws parties who may not appreciate what the upper mountain demands.
SW Ridge primary hazards
- Rockfall: The leading cause of accidents on the SW Ridge route. Human-triggered rockfall from parties above is a constant risk when the route is busy. Stay out of gullies where rock from above funnels. Helmets are non-negotiable. Space out from groups ahead.
- Route-finding errors: Multiple cairned lines exist, not all of which mark the safest route. Off-route navigation leads into gully terrain with greater rockfall exposure and more difficult scrambling. Study Parks Canada’s official route description before your trip.
- Snow and ice on upper route: Before mid-July and in early autumn, snow and ice on the cliff bands transforms the scramble into a mountaineering route requiring crampons and ice axe. Check conditions at the Lake Louise Visitor Centre before your trip.
- Thunderstorms: The summit and upper ridge are fully exposed to afternoon lightning. Start early and commit to turning around if weather threatens before reaching the summit.
- Descent: The descent often involves more accidents than the ascent. The polished holds at the crux are more dangerous when tired. The 2-bolt anchor allows a rappel — use it if in doubt.
East Ridge primary hazards (additional)
- Duration: 12–20 hour car-to-car days demand extraordinary fitness and efficiency. Parties that are too slow on the lower ridge will be benighted on the upper mountain.
- Loose rock: Mountain Project notes “loose rock is the crux of this route for sure.” Even on relatively “bomber” quartzite, Rockies limestone habits persist and rock dislodgement is possible throughout.
- Glaciated summit ridge: Cornices, crevasses, and the transition from rock to ice on the summit ridge require glacier travel skills and confident crampon movement.
Guided Programs
Mount Temple Guide Services
Yamnuska offers both the SW Face scramble program (groups of up to 8) and the East Ridge technical program (1:1 guide:guest ratio). Based in Canmore, they coordinate the Moraine Lake shuttle logistics as part of their programs and provide a full technical equipment package for the East Ridge.
Visit Website →Cloud Nine Guides offers both single-day and 2-day East Ridge programs with a 3:30–4:00 AM shuttle start for early access to the mountain. Their East Ridge program includes a high alpine bivouac option at The Big Step. They manage all shuttle logistics from their Canmore hub.
Visit Website →CRAG describes the East Ridge as “perhaps the best and most famous alpine rock ridge in the entire Canadian Rockies” and offers guided ascents with prerequisite screening. Only available to guests who have completed other alpine climbs with CRAG first.
Visit Website →Common Questions
Frequently Asked Questions About Mount Temple
Live Conditions
Map of Mount Temple & Live Weather
Summit location and live weather from Temple’s coordinates (51.358°N, 116.209°W). The map shows the summit, Moraine Lake (the trailhead and shuttle destination), and Lake Louise Village (nearest services and shuttle departure at Samson Mall). The Trans-Canada Hwy (AB-1) runs through the valley below, visible from the summit.
Mount Temple — Summit Conditions
11,627 ft / 3,544 m · Highest in Lake Louise area · Live from summit coordinates
Planning Summary
At-a-Glance Planning Snapshot
| Mountain | Mount Temple |
| Elevation | 11,627 ft / 3,544 m |
| Location | Banff National Park, Alberta — Lake Louise area, above Moraine Lake |
| Distinction | First 11,000-foot peak climbed in Canadian Rockies (1894); highest in Lake Louise area |
| Access | Parks Canada shuttle mandatory from Samson Mall, Lake Louise (book weeks in advance) |
| Standard Route | SW Ridge scramble (Grade I — non-technical in dry conditions; 16 km, 1,690 m, 8–13 hrs) |
| Classic Technical Route | East Ridge (Grade IV, 5.7 — 50 Classic Climbs of North America — 12–20 hrs car-to-car) |
| North Face | Greenwood–Locke Route (1966) — “Eiger of North America” — Grade V+ |
| Best Season | Mid-July – August (September for larches) |
| Park Pass | Banff NP pass required (~$25/day) |
| Camping | Not permitted in Larch Valley or on mountain |
| Bears | Grizzly habitat — groups of 4+ may be required on Larch Valley trail |
| First Ascent | August 17, 1894 — Wilcox, Allen & Frissell (first 11,000-footer in Canadian Rockies) |
| 1955 Tragedy | Seven teenagers killed by avalanche on SW Ridge — one ice axe among ten; no group leaders present |