Climb Every Route on Everest
Mount Everest offers climbers two primary paths to the 8,848-metre summit: the South Col Route from Nepal and the Northeast Ridge from Tibet. These routes define the modern era of high-altitude mountaineering and account for virtually all successful ascents in the commercial guiding era. Beyond these two, a handful of expedition-grade alternatives – the West Ridge, Southwest Face, and Kangshung Face – have been climbed by elite teams but remain out of reach for all but the most experienced alpinists.
Choosing the right route requires understanding technical difficulty, permit logistics, cost, seasonal windows, and personal objectives. This guide breaks down every major everest climbing route in detail, from base camp logistics and camp structure to summit-day protocols and head-to-head comparisons.
For broader expedition preparation, see our Complete Mount Everest Climbing Guide at /mountains/everest/.
The Two Primary Everest Routes at a Glance
South Col Route (Nepal) – The World’s Most Climbed Path
The South Col Route is the most frequently climbed path on Everest and the route taken on the first ascent in 1953. Approaching from Nepal via the Khumbu Valley, it provides access to the best-developed infrastructure of any 8,000-metre peak, including well-equipped base camp facilities, experienced Sherpa teams, and established fixed-rope systems.
History: The 1953 Hillary-Tenzing First Ascent
On 29 May 1953, Sir Edmund Hillary of New Zealand and Tenzing Norgay Sherpa of Nepal became the first humans to stand on the summit of Mount Everest, ascending via the South Col Route. The expedition was led by Colonel John Hunt under the auspices of the Joint Himalayan Committee. Hillary and Tenzing departed the South Col (Camp IV, 7,906 m) in the early hours and navigated the Southeast Ridge, the Hillary Step, and the final summit pyramid to reach 8,848 m at 11:30 a.m. local time. Their success established the South Col Route as the definitive path for subsequent commercial and guided expeditions.
Technical Sections of the South Col Route
Camp Structure on the South Col Route
South Col Route – Pros and Cons
Pros: Best Sherpa support network and fixed-rope maintenance on any 8,000-metre peak. More rescue infrastructure and helicopter access to Base Camp. Historically higher guided success rates (~50% vs ~30% on Northeast Ridge). Well-documented conditions and weather forecasting services. Kathmandu logistics are well developed for Western climbers.
Cons: Khumbu Icefall is an objective hazard that cannot be mitigated by skill alone. Heavy congestion, particularly on summit day, creates dangerous bottlenecks. Nepal permit fees are US$11,000 per climber (as of 2024). Crowding at Base Camp and on fixed lines affects team morale and safety.
Northeast Ridge Route (Tibet) – The Classic Tibetan Approach
The Northeast Ridge approaches Everest from the Tibetan Plateau via the Rongbuk Glacier. It was the route attempted by all early Everest expeditions, including the ill-fated 1924 Mallory and Irvine attempt. The first successful ascent via this route came in 1960 when a Chinese team – Wang Fuzhou, Gonpo, and Qu Yinhua – reached the summit. The route is technically demanding above 8,500 m, where the Three Steps pose distinct challenges not found on the South Col.
History of the Northeast Ridge
British attempts beginning in 1921 established the Northeast Ridge as Everest’s original contested route. George Mallory and Andrew Irvine were last seen high on this ridge on 8 June 1924, and whether they reached the summit remains one of mountaineering’s great mysteries. The modern era of the route began with the 1960 Chinese ascent, and Tibet became accessible to foreign climbing expeditions after 1980. Since then, the Northeast Ridge has attracted expeditions seeking a less commercial, more technical Everest experience.
Technical Sections Including the Three Steps
Camp Structure on the Northeast Ridge
Northeast Ridge – Pros and Cons
Pros: Less crowded than the South Col Route; more remote and traditional atmosphere. No equivalent of the Khumbu Icefall; objective hazard profile is different. Rich historical significance and more technical climbing above 8,500 m. Tibet permit historically less expensive than Nepal (approx. US$8,000-9,500 per climber).
Cons: Second Step crux is the hardest technical section on any standard Everest route. Tibet access subject to Chinese government restrictions; political closures occur. Lower guided success rates (~30-35%) reflect the increased technical difficulty. Less Sherpa support infrastructure compared to Nepal side. Fixed rope maintenance is less consistent than on the South Col Route.
South Col vs Northeast Ridge – Head-to-Head Comparison
Other Historical Everest Routes
Beyond the two primary commercial routes, Everest has been climbed by several other lines – all of them expedition-grade objectives requiring elite technical ability, significant prior 8,000-metre experience, and large support teams. None of these routes are recommended or accessible for guided commercial ascents.
West Ridge Route (1963)
The West Ridge was first climbed on 22 May 1963 by Americans Tom Hornbein and Willi Unsoeld as part of the American Mount Everest Expedition. Their ascent included a traverse – descending via the South Col – which remains one of the boldest achievements in Himalayan climbing history. The route follows the West Ridge from the Western Cwm and involves serious mixed terrain. It has seen very few subsequent ascents.
Southwest Face Route (1975)
The enormous Southwest Face of Everest, rising 2,400 metres above the Western Cwm, was considered impossible for many years. British expedition leader Chris Bonington led a large team that achieved the first ascent on 24 September 1975, with Dougal Haston and Doug Scott reaching the summit. The route requires technical rock and ice climbing at extreme altitude and is rarely attempted.
Kangshung Face Route (1983)
The East or Kangshung Face is the most remote and technically demanding of Everest’s three main faces. First climbed on 8 October 1983 by an American team (Carlos Buhler, Kim Momb, Louis Reichardt), the Kangshung Face involves complex mixed terrain, extreme avalanche exposure, and extremely limited rescue access. It is considered a pure expedition undertaking for the world’s top alpinists only.
Summit Day: What to Expect on Both Routes
Departure Time and Duration
On both routes, summit day begins between midnight and 1:00 a.m. from the final high camp.
- South Col Route: Depart Camp IV (~7,906 m) at midnight to 1:00 a.m. Typical ascent time: 8-12 hours to summit. Total round trip from C4: 16-20 hours.
- Northeast Ridge: Depart Camp III (~8,300 m) at 11:00 p.m. to midnight. Typical ascent time: 8-10 hours to summit. Total round trip from C3: 14-18 hours.
Oxygen and Turnaround Rules
The vast majority of guided clients use supplemental oxygen above 7,000-8,000 m. Standard flow rates are 2-4 litres per minute during climbing and 1 litre per minute during sleep at high camps. Turnaround time is non-negotiable. Most guiding companies enforce a hard turnaround time of 1:00-2:00 p.m. regardless of summit proximity. The majority of Everest fatalities occur during descent, often by climbers who summited too late and ran out of oxygen, daylight, or energy before returning to high camp.
Route Selection Decision Framework
Frequently Asked Questions
What are the main differences in camp structure between the South Col Route and the Northeast Ridge?
The South Col Route features five camps, including Base Camp at 5,364 m and four higher camps, with a focus on acclimatization and logistical support. In contrast, the Northeast Ridge has a slightly different structure, with Base Camp at 5,150 m and an Advanced Base Camp at 6,400 m, followed by three additional camps. The Northeast Ridge’s camps are generally more basic, reflecting its less commercial nature and the technical challenges climbers face.
What is the best time of year to attempt climbing Everest?
The optimal climbing season for both routes is during the pre-monsoon period, typically from late April to early June. This window offers the most stable weather conditions, which are crucial for high-altitude climbing. The South Col Route is particularly popular during this time, while the Northeast Ridge can also be attempted until early June, although weather patterns can vary, making careful planning essential.
How do climbers prepare for the extreme altitude on Everest?
Preparation for high-altitude climbing on Everest involves extensive physical training, acclimatization, and mental conditioning. Climbers often engage in endurance training, strength workouts, and altitude simulations. Acclimatization is critical; climbers spend weeks at Base Camp and ascend to higher camps to allow their bodies to adjust to lower oxygen levels. Many also use supplemental oxygen above 7,000 m to mitigate the effects of altitude sickness.
What are the risks associated with climbing Everest?
Climbing Everest presents numerous risks, including altitude sickness, extreme weather, avalanches, and falls. The Khumbu Icefall on the South Col Route poses significant hazards due to serac collapses and crevasses, while the Northeast Ridge has its own dangers, such as rockfall and the technical challenges of the Three Steps. Additionally, climbers face the risk of exhaustion and hypoxia, particularly during summit attempts when conditions can change rapidly.
Are there any age restrictions for climbing Everest?
While there are no official age restrictions set by the Nepalese or Tibetan authorities, most guiding companies have their own policies. Generally, climbers must be at least 16 years old to attempt Everest. However, many successful climbers are in their 20s to 50s, as physical fitness and experience are crucial for tackling the challenges of high-altitude climbing. Parental consent is typically required for younger climbers.
What should climbers consider when choosing between the South Col Route and the Northeast Ridge?
When deciding between the two routes, climbers should consider their experience level, technical skills, and personal preferences. The South Col Route is more suited for first-time climbers due to its established infrastructure and higher success rates. In contrast, the Northeast Ridge appeals to experienced alpinists seeking a less commercial and more technical challenge. Factors such as permit costs, crowd levels, and logistical support should also influence the decision.
What is the success rate on each route?
On the South Col Route, guided expedition success rates typically range from 45-55% depending on season and team quality. On the Northeast Ridge, guided success rates are lower, generally 30-35%, reflecting the increased technical difficulty above 8,500 m and less consistent fixed-rope infrastructure. Independent (non-guided) success rates are significantly lower on both routes.
Can you climb Everest without supplemental oxygen?
Yes, but it is extremely rare and reserved for elite climbers with extensive 8,000-metre experience. Fewer than 200 people have summited Everest without supplemental oxygen since Reinhold Messner and Peter Habeler made the first oxygenless ascent in 1978. The death rate for climbers attempting Everest without oxygen is substantially higher. Most guiding companies require or strongly recommend supplemental oxygen for all clients.
Which route is less crowded?
The Northeast Ridge via Tibet is significantly less crowded. It accounts for roughly 15% of all Everest ascents versus 85% via the South Col. However, Tibet access is subject to Chinese government restrictions and periodic closures, making route availability unpredictable from season to season.
How much does a Tibet permit cost vs Nepal permit?
As of 2024, the Nepal government charges US$11,000 per climber for the South Col Route. The Tibet Mountaineering Association (TMA) charges approximately US$8,000-9,500 per climber for the Northeast Ridge. Both figures exclude agency fees, Sherpa wages, equipment, insurance, and logistics, which can bring total expedition costs to US$40,000-US$100,000+ per person.
What is the hardest technical section on Everest?
The Second Step on the Northeast Ridge, at approximately 8,611 m, is widely considered the most technically demanding section on any standard Everest route. The near-vertical 40-metre rock pitch requires genuine rock climbing ability at an altitude where most climbers are severely hypoxic. A metal ladder installed by Chinese climbers in 1975 assists modern ascents, but the section remains strenuous and consequential. On the South Col Route, the Hillary Step (~8,790 m) is a shorter but highly exposed 12-metre near-vertical rock section.
Choosing Your Path to the Summit
The choice between the South Col Route and the Northeast Ridge is ultimately a question of experience, risk tolerance, logistics, and personal ambition. The South Col remains the world’s most climbed high-altitude route for good reason: it offers superior support infrastructure, historically higher success rates, and a well-established safety culture developed over seven decades of guided expeditions. The Northeast Ridge offers a more technical, less crowded, and historically resonant alternative – but demands a higher skill ceiling and carries greater uncertainty around access and conditions.
For most climbers approaching Everest for the first time, the South Col Route is the rational choice. For experienced alpinists with prior 8,000-metre experience seeking a more serious technical challenge, the Northeast Ridge is a compelling and storied path.
Plan your full expedition with our Complete Mount Everest Climbing Guide at /mountains/everest/.
Summing Up Everest Routes: South Col vs Northeast Ridge
Choosing the right route to summit Everest is crucial for achieving your climbing goals, whether you seek the support of the South Col Route or the technical challenge of the Northeast Ridge. Each path offers unique advantages, from higher success rates and established infrastructure to a less crowded and historically rich experience. Understanding these options empowers climbers to make informed decisions tailored to their skills and ambitions. Start planning your adventure today with our Complete Mount Everest Climbing Guide at /mountains/everest/.
