Mount Everest Routes Guide
For most climbers, choosing between the main Mount Everest routes comes down to one core question: Should you climb from Nepal or Tibet? The two standard routes are the South Col / Southeast Ridge from Nepal and the Northeast Ridge / North Col from Tibet. Both are serious high-altitude objectives, but they differ in camp structure, hazards, logistics, crowding, and the type of experience they offer.
This guide compares the main Everest routes in a practical, beginner-friendly way so you can understand how each route works, what makes each one difficult, and which one may be the best fit for your goals, experience, and expedition style.
Who This Everest Route Guide Is For
This page is built for climbers who want a clear and realistic route comparison before deciding how they want to approach Everest.
- Beginner climbers planning a long-term Everest goal
- Intermediate climbers comparing commercial expedition options
- Mountaineers who want to understand Nepal vs Tibet before booking
- Readers looking for a practical route overview without technical overload
At-a-Glance Everest Route Comparison
| Route | Side | Technical Grade | Objective Hazards | Camp Structure | Crowding | Typical Client Profile |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| South Col / Southeast Ridge | Nepal | Moderate technical climbing, extreme altitude | Khumbu Icefall, Lhotse Face, South Col exposure, traffic jams | Base Camp, Camps 1–4 | Usually highest | First-time guided Everest climbers |
| Northeast Ridge / North Col | Tibet | Moderate technical climbing, harsher exposure | High winds, cold exposure, technical ridge features, long summit ridge | Base Camp, Interim Camp, Advanced Base Camp, Camps 1–3 | Often lower than Nepal side | Returning high-altitude climbers, those preferring Tibet logistics |
| West Ridge | Nepal / Tibet variants | High technical difficulty | Serious exposure, complex route finding, objective danger | Varies | Very low | Elite alpinists |
| Southwest Face | Nepal | Very high technical difficulty | Avalanche risk, steep climbing, major commitment | Varies | Very low | Expert climbers only |
| Kangshung Face | Tibet | Extreme technical difficulty | Avalanches, isolation, route complexity, severe exposure | Expedition-specific | Very low | Technical alpinists and exploratory teams |
Which Everest Route Is Best for Most Climbers?
For most beginner and intermediate guided climbers, the South Col / Southeast Ridge from Nepal is the standard choice. It is the most established route, the most commonly guided, and the route most commercial teams are built around.
That does not mean it is easy. It still includes major objective hazards, especially the Khumbu Icefall and the Lhotse Face. But it is the route most first-time Everest clients will encounter when comparing expedition operators.
The Northeast Ridge from Tibet may appeal more to climbers who prefer a different logistics setup, potentially lower crowding, and a route that avoids the Khumbu Icefall, but it comes with its own serious challenges, including colder and more exposed ridge climbing.
The Two Main Everest Routes Explained
South Col / Southeast Ridge
This is the most famous and most commonly guided route on Everest. Climbers trek to Everest Base Camp, move through the Khumbu Icefall to Camp 1, cross the Western Cwm, climb the Lhotse Face, and reach the South Col before making a summit push via the Southeast Ridge.
Why climbers choose it: strong commercial support, familiar logistics, classic Everest experience, and the route most expedition companies specialize in.
Main challenge: the Khumbu Icefall is one of the best-known hazards on Everest, and crowding on summit days can be significant.
Northeast Ridge / North Col
This route approaches Everest from Tibet and builds through Base Camp, Intermediate Camp, Advanced Base Camp, the North Col, and the high ridge system leading to the summit. It avoids the Khumbu Icefall but exposes climbers to a longer and often windier ridge environment.
Why climbers choose it: no Khumbu Icefall, a different logistics rhythm, and sometimes less crowding than the Nepal side.
Main challenge: colder, more exposed upper mountain climbing with technical ridge features and a longer-feeling summit day.
Historic and Elite Alternatives
West Ridge
A highly respected and far more technical alternative. This is not a standard client route and is generally reserved for elite climbers looking for a much more difficult line.
Southwest Face
One of Everest’s most serious lines, known for technical climbing and major commitment. This is not part of the normal beginner or intermediate Everest planning conversation.
Kangshung Face
A wild, remote, and highly committing route from the east. It is far outside the mainstream guided Everest model and is best understood as an expert alpinist objective.
Camp-by-Camp Breakdown of the Standard Routes
South Col / Southeast Ridge Camps
| Camp | Approximate Role | What Climbers Face |
|---|---|---|
| Base Camp | Main expedition hub | Rest, acclimatization, logistics, weather waiting |
| Camp 1 | Above the Khumbu Icefall | Crevasses, ladders, changing ice conditions |
| Camp 2 | Advanced base within the Western Cwm | Heat reflection, long glacier travel, staging point for higher moves |
| Camp 3 | On the Lhotse Face | Steep fixed lines, exposed climbing, altitude fatigue |
| Camp 4 / South Col | High camp before summit push | Extreme exposure, wind, limited recovery before summit day |
Northeast Ridge / North Col Camps
| Camp | Approximate Role | What Climbers Face |
|---|---|---|
| Base Camp | Road-accessible main camp | Initial logistics and adaptation to the Tibet side |
| Interim Camp | Transition camp | Gradual move toward higher altitude systems |
| Advanced Base Camp | Main high operations hub | Long stays at altitude, preparation for the North Col |
| North Col / Camp 1 | First major high camp | Steep ascent, exposure, strong winds |
| Camp 2 / Camp 3 | Upper mountain staging | Cold, extended ridge travel, increasing technical fatigue |
| High Camp / Summit Push | Final push along Northeast Ridge | Three Steps area, wind exposure, long summit day |
Hazard Analysis: What Makes the Everest Routes Dangerous?
Khumbu Icefall
The most famous hazard on the Nepal side. Climbers move through unstable ice, ladders, and crevasse systems where conditions can change quickly.
Lhotse Face
A steep and exposed section on the South Col route where fixed-line efficiency and controlled movement become very important.
The Three Steps
A well-known feature on the Northeast Ridge route. These sections add technical and psychological difficulty high on the mountain.
Exposure Above 8,500m
On both routes, the upper mountain is where altitude, wind, cold, fatigue, and decision-making all become more serious and less forgiving.
How to Choose the Right Everest Route
First-Time Guided Climber
The South Col route is usually the most realistic choice because it is the route most expedition companies are built around, and it offers the most established support model for commercial teams.
Returning 8,000er Climber
The Northeast Ridge may become more appealing if you already have strong high-altitude experience and want a different style of exposure, logistics, or crowd profile.
Technical Alpinist
Historic alternatives like the West Ridge, Southwest Face, or Kangshung Face are expert objectives and sit far outside the normal guided Everest planning path.
Route Strategy by Expedition Style
| Expedition Style | Typical Route Preference | Why |
|---|---|---|
| Commercial Team | Usually South Col / Southeast Ridge | This is the most established guided route with strong commercial expedition infrastructure. |
| Private Team | Depends on team goals | More flexibility in route choice, logistics style, and risk tolerance. |
| Technical Alpinist Team | Alternative routes | These teams may pursue more serious historic lines based on technical objectives rather than standard summit logistics. |
Frequently Asked Questions
Explore the Full Mount Everest Planning Series
Mount Everest Routes Guide: Comparing South Col vs Northeast Ridge
The best Everest route for you depends on more than just the line on the mountain. Budget, weather window, expedition support, and training all play a major role in making the right decision.