Global Summit Guide · Sesto/Sexten Dolomites · South Tyrol / Belluno, Italy
Tre Cime di Lavaredo — Italy
Complete guide: the 10.8 km Giro delle Tre Cime circuit, Cima Grande Normal Route (UIAA II), Comici-Dimai North Face (one of the Six Great North Faces), Via Ferrata De Luca-Innerkofler & full 2025 access logistics — the most iconic mountain group in the Alps, a WWI front line, and a 150-year laboratory for the evolution of alpinism.
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Ultimate Tre Cime di Lavaredo Guide: Hiking, Climbing & Full Logistics
The Tre Cime di Lavaredo (German: Drei Zinnen — Three Merlons) are three free-standing limestone towers in the Sexten/Sesto Dolomites of northeastern Italy, rising from an alpine plateau at approximately 2,200 m and piercing the sky with vertical faces on all sides. They are, by any reasonable measure, the most recognised mountain group in the entire Alps: a silhouette so distinctive and so repeatedly photographed that it has become a global shorthand for the very idea of mountains. Reinhold Messner called them “a mirror of the evolution of alpinism” — from the first hesitant ascents of 1869 to the free solos of the modern era, every generation of climbers has returned here to define what is possible.
The three peaks span a cultural and political border: the north faces look into the German-speaking South Tyrol (formerly Austria-Hungary until 1919); the south faces look into the Italian-speaking Province of Belluno (Veneto). The names themselves encode this duality — Tre Cime in Italian, Drei Zinnen in German, both correct, both in use. The summit ridge is still, as it has been for centuries, a language border.
The three peaks — Cima Grande (2,999 m), Cima Ovest (2,973 m), and Cima Piccola (2,857 m) — were first climbed across a span of 12 years, all by the same guide family: the Innerkoflers of Sexten. The north face of Cima Grande was climbed by Emilio Comici in 1933 — one of the Six Great North Faces of the Alps. Between the first ascent and Comici’s route lay the catastrophe of the First World War, which turned these peaks into a front line and killed one of the very Innerkoflers who had opened them to climbing.
🚫 2025 Access Alert — Online Reservation Now Mandatory
From summer 2025, car access to the Rifugio Auronzo parking area requires an advance online reservation. Book a 12-hour time slot at auronzo.info before travelling. Toll: approximately €30–40 per car. Without a reservation, entry through the toll gate is not guaranteed. Shuttle buses from Misurina (Bus 31) and Dobbiaco/Toblach (Bus 444) do not require the car reservation — Bus 444 requires separate advance booking at tre-cime.bz/ticket.
At a Glance
Tre Cime di Lavaredo Quick Facts
| Peak / Category | Details |
|---|---|
| Cima Grande (Große Zinne) | 2,999 m / 9,839 ft — highest of the three — First ascent August 21, 1869 (Paul Grohmann + Franz Innerkofler + Peter Salcher) — Normal Route: UIAA II, South Face, 200 m |
| Cima Ovest (Westliche Zinne) | 2,973 m / 9,754 ft — western peak — First ascent August 21, 1879 (Michel Innerkofler + G. Ploner) — exactly 10 years after Cima Grande |
| Cima Piccola (Kleine Zinne) | 2,857 m / 9,373 ft — eastern peak — First ascent July 25, 1881 (Michel & Hans Innerkofler) — most difficult Normal Route of the three |
| Location | Sexten/Sesto Dolomites — border of South Tyrol (Bolzano province) and Belluno province (Veneto) — UNESCO World Heritage Dolomites (2009) |
| Language Border | Summit ridge is the boundary between German-speaking South Tyrol and Italian-speaking Belluno — officially “Tre Cime” and “Drei Zinnen” are equally correct |
| Comici North Face | Cima Grande NE face — one of the Six Great North Faces of the Alps — first climbed August 13–14, 1933 by Emilio Comici + brothers Dimai — 3 days, 2 nights — Comici soloed it unroped September 2, 1937 |
| The Loop Hike | Giro delle Tre Cime: 10.8 km · 400 m elevation gain · 3–4 hours · most famous day hike in the Dolomites · accessible to most walkers |
| Three Rifugi | Rifugio Auronzo (2,333 m) · Rifugio Lavaredo (2,344 m) · Rifugio Locatelli / Dreizinnenhütte (2,405 m) |
| 2025 Car Access | Online reservation mandatory — book at auronzo.info — toll ~€30–40 including parking — 700-vehicle capacity — fills quickly in July–August |
| WWI History | Front line between Italy and Austria-Hungary ran through the peaks 1915–1917 — trenches, tunnels, iron ladders visible — Sepp Innerkofler killed on Monte Paterno July 4, 1915 |
| Messner Quote | “A mirror of the evolution of alpinism” |
| UNESCO Status | Within the Dolomites UNESCO World Heritage Site (2009); Three Peaks Nature Park |
| Geology | Dolomia Principale (Hauptdolomit) — Carnian to Rhaetian — ancient tropical coral reef limestone |
| Best Season | Late June – mid-September; July–August very busy; September often finest |
First Ascents
Paul Grohmann, the Innerkofler Family & Three Peaks in Twelve Years
Paul Grohmann — Cima Grande, August 21, 1869
Paul Grohmann (1838–1908) was a Viennese mountaineer who essentially opened the Dolomites to systematic alpinism between 1863 and 1869. Looking south from the high Tauern, he had seen the Dolomites and resolved to climb them all. By the time he arrived at Tre Cime, he had already made first ascents of Antelao, Pelmo, Marmolada, Tofana, Monte Civetta (fourth ascent), and others. The Tre Cime — specifically Cima Grande — were his crowning objective. On August 21, 1869, Grohmann with guides Franz Innerkofler and Peter Salcher reached the summit of Cima Grande via the South Face — a route of 200 m that remains the Normal Route today. The date August 21, 1869 is considered the founding moment of serious Dolomite mountaineering.
The Innerkofler Family — Cima Ovest (1879) & Cima Piccola (1881)
The Innerkofler guide family of Sexten (Sesto) in South Tyrol made three of the three Tre Cime first ascents. Franz Innerkofler guided Grohmann in 1869. Then, on August 21, 1879 — exactly ten years to the day after the Cima Grande first ascent — Michel Innerkofler with client G. Ploner made the first ascent of the Cima Ovest. Two years later, on July 25, 1881, Michel and Hans Innerkofler made the first ascent of the Cima Piccola — the most technically demanding of the three normal routes. The three first ascents span twelve years; all three normal ascent routes still follow the Innerkofler lines. No other guide family in the Dolomites can claim to have opened an entire massif of this stature.
The Normal Routes Today — Still the Original Lines
The Normal Route on each peak follows precisely the line taken on the first ascent. Cima Grande’s South Face (UIAA II, 200 m, 2.5 hours from the Lavaredo hut) is the most popular climbing objective in the entire Dolomites — smooth from generations of ascent, approached in 40 minutes from the Rifugio Auronzo parking area, and heavily trafficked in July and August. The Cima Piccola Normal Route is the most difficult, with the summit block requiring more committed climbing. The Cima Ovest Normal Route (SW Face, UIAA III, 300 m, 2 hours) is the least visited of the three by ordinary walkers but offers the finest summit position.
The Evolution: From Normal Routes to the Modern Era
After the Innerkofler first ascents, successive generations measured their ambitions against the north face of Cima Grande. The north face looks out toward South Tyrol — almost entirely vertical, 550 m high, overhanging at its core. Between 1869 and 1933, it was attempted and left unclimbed. Then Comici arrived (see below). After Comici, the great routes of the post-war era followed: the Hasse-Brandler Directissima in 1958 (18 pitches, originally climbed with significant aid), an important test piece that took the absolute most direct line up the centre of the face. By the modern era, Alex Huber had free-soloed the north face in 2002. The Tre Cime had compressed the entire history of rock climbing into a single wall.
The North Face & Comici’s Philosophy
Emilio Comici — The Drop of Water & the North Face of Cima Grande, 1933
△ August 13–14, 1933 — Emilio Comici + Giuseppe & Angelo Dimai — 3 Days, 2 Nights — 550 m
Emilio Comici (1901–1940) was the greatest Dolomite climber of the inter-war period — a man from Trieste who transformed what was possible on limestone by combining extraordinary natural ability with a philosophical approach to route-finding that produced lines of aesthetic perfection. His stated principle was precise: “I wish someday to make a route and from the summit let fall a drop of water and this is where my route will go.” The plumb line. The absolute vertical. The most direct path down the face from summit to glacier.
- The first ascent (August 13–14, 1933): Comici with brothers Giuseppe Dimai and Angelo Dimai climbed the 550 m north face of Cima Grande over three days and two nights. The route found the logical line of weakness on an apparently featureless overhanging wall, ascending cracks, corners, and slabs that hang over the glacier below. The north face of Cima Grande is the only route of the Six Great North Faces that is on the Dolomite limestone rather than granite or mixed terrain — giving it a completely different character: warm-coloured, featured, often climbed in rock shoes rather than boots.
- Comici’s solo, September 2, 1937: Four years after the first ascent, Comici soloed the route unroped — an act of such audacity that it has never been fully repeated in the same manner. He died in 1940 from a fall during a training descent in the Friulian Dolomites, at 39. His career lasted barely 15 years; his routes define the Dolomites to this day.
- The Spigolo Giallo (Yellow Edge) on Cima Piccola: Comici also climbed the Spigolo Giallo — the dazzling yellow overhanging edge on the south-east face of Cima Piccola — with Mary Varale and Renato Zanutti. Described as “the characteristic, magnificent, yellow overhanging rock, which falls down to the depth below the obelisk of the southern foresummit almost impossibly slender and slime like an awl.” The Spigolo Giallo is considered one of the most beautiful routes in the Dolomites.
- The Hasse-Brandler Directissima (1958): The next great north face chapter came in 1958 when Lothar Brandler, Dieter Hasse, Jörg Lehne, and Sigi Löw climbed the Directissima on Cima Grande — a more direct line than Comici’s, taking the central overhanging yellow wall head-on. 18 pitches, July 6–10, 1958. The route required significant aid and represented a new frontier of commitment on the face.
- Alex Huber, 2002: The logical endpoint of the progression arrived when Alex Huber free-soloed the north face of Cima Grande in 2002 — a feat that would have been incomprehensible to Grohmann in 1869 and nearly incomprehensible to Comici in 1933. From first ascent to free solo: 133 years. That span encapsulates what Messner meant when he called the Tre Cime a mirror of the evolution of alpinism.
👤 The Summit Register & the Six Great North Faces
The Comici-Dimai Route is classified as one of the Six Great North Faces of the Alps alongside the north faces of the Eiger, Matterhorn, Grandes Jorasses, Piz Badile, and the Petit Dru. Of the six, it is arguably the most frequently climbed — due to the extraordinary accessibility of the Tre Cime approach compared to the other five. It is graded ED inf / UIAA VII (or VI with A0), 550 m. The route has bolted belays at most stances, but intermediate protection consists of old pegs of variable quality, and the overhanging structure means retreat by abseiling is very difficult once committed above the lower section. Current grade free: VII; with aid (A0): VI.
The White War
World War I at the Tre Cime — The Front Line & Sepp Innerkofler
Between 1915 and 1917, the Tre Cime di Lavaredo were a front line of the First World War. The pre-1919 border between Italy and Austria-Hungary ran precisely through the peaks — which meant that when Italy entered the war in May 1915, Italian and Austro-Hungarian troops found themselves entrenched on the ridge that the Innerkoflers had climbed for sport less than 40 years earlier. The conflict in the Dolomites was known as the “White War” (Guerra Bianca) — fought at altitude, in snow and ice, in conditions of extreme cold and isolation, by soldiers who sometimes faced each other from positions just a few hundred metres apart on adjacent peaks.
The traces of the White War remain perfectly visible throughout the Tre Cime area: trenches, tunnels carved through the rock, artillery positions, iron ladders, and commemorative plaques scattered along the hiking trails. Monte Paterno (2,744 m) — the rocky pyramid northeast of the Tre Cime, visible from Rifugio Locatelli — is an open-air museum of WWI, with a system of tunnels that the Italian Alpini dug through the mountain to reach their positions without exposure to Austrian fire.
Sepp Innerkofler — July 4, 1915
Sepp Innerkofler was one of the most famous mountain guides in the Sexten/Sesto area — a member of the Innerkofler guide family that had opened the Tre Cime between 1869 and 1881 — and was serving as an Austrian soldier when the war began. On the night of July 4, 1915, Innerkofler led a patrol in a night attack attempting to storm the summit of Monte Paterno, which the Italian Alpini had fortified. Italian sharpshooters spotted the men and opened fire. Sepp Innerkofler was killed on the mountain he knew better than any soldier on either side. It is said that the Italian Alpine soldiers who discovered who had been killed were distraught — many were themselves alpinists who had admired Innerkofler as a guide. His body was laid to rest on the summit of Monte Paterno and later moved to a cemetery in Sexten after the war.
Today, the Via Ferrata De Luca-Innerkofler on Monte Paterno is named jointly after Sepp Innerkofler and Piero de Luca, an Italian Alpini officer who defended the summit in the same engagement — a deliberate act of reconciliation between the nations that once faced each other here. The via ferrata passes through the original WWI tunnels (headlamp essential) before emerging onto the cabled sections of the mountain’s crest.
Getting There — 2025 Update
Access, Toll Road & 2025 Mandatory Reservation
🚫 2025 CRITICAL: Online Reservation Required for Toll Road
From summer 2025, driving to the Rifugio Auronzo parking area requires an advance online booking. Visit auronzo.info to book a 12-hour time slot. You will need your email, phone number, and licence plate. Rental car drivers can add the plate number the day before. Without a booking, entry cannot be guaranteed. Toll: approximately €30–40 including parking (700-vehicle capacity). Road open roughly late May–late October depending on snow.
🚌 Getting to Misurina & the Tre Cime Toll Road
- From Venice by car (~130 km, 2–2.5 hours): Take the A27 motorway north from Venice toward Belluno. Continue north on the SR51 Boite valley road through Pieve di Cadore, Auronzo di Cadore, and to Lago di Misurina. The toll road gate is 1.9 km north of Lake Misurina near Lago d’Antorno. After the gate, it is a 5–7 km drive to the Rifugio Auronzo parking area (2,333 m).
- From Cortina d’Ampezzo by car (~35 km, 45 min): Drive east via Passo Tre Croci to Misurina, then the toll road to Rifugio Auronzo. Cortina is the nearest resort with full services.
- By train to Calalzo di Cadore: Train from Venice to Calalzo di Cadore (~1.5–2 hours). Buses from Calalzo connect to Auronzo di Cadore and Misurina.
- Bus 31 from Misurina (no car reservation needed): DolomitiBus line 31 from Misurina (stop: Misurina-Genzianella) reaches Rifugio Auronzo in approximately 20 minutes. Approximately €4 one-way. Does not require the online car reservation.
- Bus 444 from Dobbiaco/Toblach (advance booking required): Bus 444 connects Dobbiaco/Toblach train station (South Tyrol, reachable from Bolzano/Trento by Brenner line) to Rifugio Auronzo — approximately 50 minutes. Bus 444 requires advance online booking and payment at tre-cime.bz/ticket. Operates approximately May–October. From Dobbiaco, travellers arrive on the north side of the Tre Cime — the face side — before continuing to Rifugio Auronzo. This is the approach for the finest view of the north face.
- Hiking in without the toll: Several marked trails allow hikers to approach the Tre Cime on foot from below the toll gate, avoiding the car fee. Trail 101 branches from just before the toll station. The walk from the gate to Rifugio Auronzo adds approximately 1 hour each way.
All Routes & Experiences
From the Loop Hike to the Six Great North Faces
| # | Route / Experience | Grade | Character & Key Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Giro delle Tre Cime — The Circuit Hike | T2–T3 Hiking | 10.8 km loop · ~400 m gain · 3–4 hours · The most famous day hike in the Dolomites. From Rifugio Auronzo, circuit around all three peaks via Rifugio Lavaredo, Forcella Lavaredo, Rifugio Locatelli / Dreizinnenhütte, and back. The north face view from Rifugio Locatelli is the highlight. Suitable for most walkers in good weather. |
| 2 | Cima Grande Normal Route — South Face | II UIAA · 200 m | Grohmann’s 1869 first ascent line. 40 min approach from Rifugio Auronzo to Rifugio Lavaredo; then 40 min to route base. 200 m; II UIAA; 2.5 hours up. Most popular rock climbing objective in the Dolomites. Polished smooth by generations; rockfall risk from parties above; helmet mandatory. Pre-dawn start essential in July–August. |
| 3 | Cima Piccola Normal Route — SW Face | III UIAA · 300 m | Michel & Hans Innerkofler, 1881. SW Face. 300 m; III UIAA; 2 hours. More demanding than Cima Grande; most difficult of the three normal routes. From Rifugio Auronzo. |
| 4 | Cima Ovest Normal Route — SW Face | III UIAA · 300 m | Michel Innerkofler, 1879. SW Face. 300 m; III UIAA; 2 hours. Quieter than Cima Grande; finest summit position of the three for views of the group. |
| 5 | Via Ferrata De Luca-Innerkofler — Monte Paterno | Via Ferrata (B/C) | Named for Sepp Innerkofler (Austrian guide, killed here July 4, 1915) and Piero de Luca (Italian Alpini officer). Begins at Rifugio Locatelli. WWI tunnels (600 m, headlamp essential) then cabled sections to summit of Monte Paterno (2,744 m). Total 5–7 hours. Outstanding north face view from summit. One of the finest via ferratas in the Dolomites. |
| 6 | Comici-Dimai Route — Cima Grande North Face | ED inf · VII (VI A0) | One of the Six Great North Faces. Comici + Dimai brothers, August 13–14, 1933. 550 m; ED inferior; UIAA VII free or VI with A0. Bolted belays; old intermediate pegs of variable quality. Overhanging structure: retreat very difficult above lower section. Approach 1 hour from Rifugio Auronzo via Rifugio Lavaredo and Forcella Lavaredo traverse to north side base. |
| 7 | Spigolo Giallo (Yellow Edge) — Cima Piccola | VI+ UIAA | Comici, Varale, Zanutti. The dazzling yellow overhanging arête on Cima Piccola’s SE face — one of the most beautiful routes in all the Dolomites. UIAA VI+. Avoid at high season weekends: can be dangerously overcrowded. |
| 8 | Via Cassin — Cima Piccolissima | VI UIAA | Riccardo Cassin, Luigi Pozzi, Gigi Vitali, 1934. Short SE-facing overhanging yellow wall. All loose holds cleaned. Climbable before and after the main season due to SE aspect. |
| 9 | Hasse-Brandler Directissima — Cima Grande North Face | ED · VIII+ A0 | Brandler, Hasse, Lehne, Löw, July 1958. 18 pitches. The direct line on the north face above Comici’s route. VIII+ A0. Most belays bolt-protected; not all pegs trustworthy. Very tiring due to length regardless of style. |
Route Detail
The Circuit Hike, Cima Grande Normal Route & Comici North Face
Giro delle Tre Cime — The Circuit
- Start from Rifugio Auronzo (2,333 m): The circuit begins and ends at the Rifugio Auronzo parking area at the top of the toll road. From the rifugio, Trail 101 heads north across the debris cone of the south faces — the first experience of the Tre Cime at close range, their smooth south faces rising on your left. The trail is broad, well-marked, and shared with hundreds of other walkers in peak season. If you see large crowds departing counter-clockwise on Trail 101, consider starting clockwise (Trail 105) for a less congested initial section.
- Rifugio Lavaredo & Forcella Lavaredo (2,344 m / 2,454 m): Approximately 30 minutes from Rifugio Auronzo, the trail reaches the privately-run Rifugio Lavaredo at the base of the south faces. Continue another 15–20 minutes uphill to Forcella Lavaredo at 2,454 m — the pass that gives the first direct view north onto the north faces. This moment — cresting the col and suddenly seeing the vertical amphitheatre of the three north walls spread before you — is the emotional core of the entire hike. The Comici route is directly above; the Hasse-Brandler Directissima is to its right.
- Rifugio Locatelli / Dreizinnenhütte (2,405 m) — the great viewpoint: Continue northwest from the Forcella on Trail 101 to Rifugio Locatelli — the most celebrated hut in the Dolomites, with its position directly beneath the north faces. The north face view from this hut is the one that graces every Dolomite postcard and magazine cover. The Tre Cime rise vertically above; Monte Paterno stands to the northeast; the Three Peaks Nature Park spreads below. The German name “Dreizinnenhütte” is on every signpost on the South Tyrol side. For the finest view away from the crowds at the hut, walk 5–10 minutes past it to the north, where a plateau gives an unobstructed 180-degree panorama of both the north faces and Monte Paterno.
- Return via the north side — Trail 102: From Rifugio Locatelli, the circuit continues via Trail 102 west across the north side of the massif — traversing beneath the north faces at close range. This is the section where the scale of the Comici and Hasse-Brandler routes is most viscerally apparent: you are walking at the base of what was once thought the most difficult rock face in the world. Return south around the western end of the massif to the Rifugio Auronzo.
- Crowd management in peak season: July and August see hundreds of people on this circuit daily. Start before 8:00 AM to have the Forcella Lavaredo and Rifugio Locatelli viewpoints to yourself. Alternatively, stay a night at Rifugio Locatelli and walk the north side in the early morning light — the golden hour on the north faces is extraordinary.
Cima Grande di Lavaredo — Normal Route (South Face)
- Approach to route base (80 min from Rifugio Auronzo): From the Rifugio Auronzo, walk south and east along the path beneath the south faces to the Rifugio Lavaredo at 2,344 m (30 minutes). Continue to the route base at the left-hand side of the South Face — total approach approximately 80 minutes from the car park. The approach is a good path with no technical difficulty.
- The South Face route: The Normal Route ascends the left side of the South Face in 200 m of UIAA II climbing. The rock is well-featured but polished from generations of ascent; there are sections of fixed rope and some in-situ protection. The grade is genuinely II in dry conditions but increases significantly when wet. The route is susceptible to rockfall from parties above — in July and August with multiple roped teams on the face simultaneously, helmets must be worn throughout.
- The summit of Cima Grande (2,999 m): The view from the highest of the Tre Cime is extraordinary in all directions. Looking down the south face, the Rifugio Auronzo is visible far below with its car park and the line of the toll road descending to Misurina. Looking north, the circuit of mountains that forms the Sexten Dolomites panorama is spread at eye level. There is a small bivouac box on the summit.
- Descent: Reverse the South Face route. Be especially careful on descent — the polished rock is more demanding going down than up. Return to Rifugio Lavaredo and then to Rifugio Auronzo.
- Mosca Chimney variant (UIAA III): A popular variation leaves the Normal Route at the first terrace and ascends the left side of the South Face before rejoining at the second terrace. Many parties climb this and descend the Normal Route as a slightly more interesting circuit.
Via Ferrata De Luca-Innerkofler — Monte Paterno
- The WWI tunnels — headlamp essential: From Rifugio Locatelli, the via ferrata route begins by entering the WWI tunnel system that the Italian Alpini dug through Monte Paterno to approach their summit positions without exposure to Austrian fire. The tunnel is approximately 600 m long with some sections steep enough to require the iron ladder installations inside. The natural “windows” in the rock do not provide sufficient light to navigate safely — a headlamp is not optional. The experience of walking through the tunnels with the knowledge of what happened here in 1915 — and Sepp Innerkofler’s night attack against these very positions — is one of the most historically resonant moments in the entire Dolomites.
- The cabled sections — to the summit: Above the tunnels, the via ferrata begins proper with steel cable protection on the steep northwest crest and east face of Monte Paterno. The difficulty is not extreme — the route is graded B/C (moderate to slightly demanding) — but the length and altitude make it a serious undertaking for beginners. Clip in throughout; people have died on this via ferrata and memorial plaques are mounted on the rock. The summit route is an out-and-back from Forcella del Camoscio.
- The summit view of Monte Paterno (2,744 m): The summit of Monte Paterno gives the finest close-up view of the north faces of the Tre Cime available without climbing them. The three great towers are spread in front of you at close range, at approximately their mid-height, with the Comici route directly visible as a line on Cima Grande’s overhanging wall.
- Descent: Return via the ascent route from the summit, or use the Ferrata delle Forcelle for a complete traverse of the eastern crest of Monte Paterno — a more involved descent over a series of ledges with ladders and bridges, ending at the path below the mountain. Second tunnel on the descent (torch essential again).
Comici-Dimai Route — Cima Grande North Face
- Approach to the north face base (1 hour): From Rifugio Auronzo, walk to Rifugio Lavaredo (30 min) and then continue through Forcella Lavaredo to the north side of the massif (45–60 min total). The route base is at the foot of Cima Grande’s north face, after skirting the base of the mountain toward its right-hand side. An alpine start is required.
- The lower section — the hardest: The Comici-Dimai is most difficult in its lower section. The first pitches follow a logical line of weakness through the overhanging base of the wall — steep crack and face climbing at the route’s maximum grade. The intermediate protection in this section is old pitons of variable trustworthiness; supplement with own gear. Once committed past the initial overhangs, retreat becomes very difficult due to the face’s geometry.
- The middle section — rising right: Above the crux lower section, the route rises somewhat rightward toward the crest area before turning back toward the summit line. This section is less interesting technically but more committing: the overhanging face above means that abseiling directly off is not a viable option. Move efficiently; watch the weather constantly.
- The upper section — near the arête: The upper section of the Comici brings the route toward the distinctive arête that marks the boundary between the true north face and the NE face. Here the climbing is on the finest rock of the route and follows the beautiful line Comici envisioned: the drop of water from the summit. The view outward from the upper face is extraordinary: the Sexten Dolomites panorama in every direction, with the Rifugio Locatelli visible far below as a dot.
- Descent via South Face: From the summit of Cima Grande, descend the Normal Route on the South Face to Rifugio Lavaredo and return to Rifugio Auronzo. This descent is the standard for all parties completing the north face.
- Weather on the north face: The north face is in shade for most of the day and can be cool even in summer. Wet conditions render it significantly more serious. Afternoon thunderstorms — the characteristic Dolomite hazard — are a serious threat on a face of this commitment. Retreat is not an option once established above the lower section. Check the forecast meticulously.
Sample Itinerary
Classic Two-Day Tre Cime Program
Day 1 — Circuit Hike & Rifugio Locatelli Night
Day 2 — Via Ferrata Innerkofler or Cima Grande Normal Route
Huts & Access
Three Rifugi, Toll Road & No Climbing Permits
| Resource | Details | Cost / Booking |
|---|---|---|
| Climbing Permit | No climbing permit required. The area is within the Three Peaks Nature Park (UNESCO World Heritage) but access is unrestricted for climbers and hikers. | Free |
| Toll Road (2025) | Misurina → Rifugio Auronzo (7 km). Online reservation mandatory from 2025. Book at auronzo.info. 12-hour time slot. 700-vehicle capacity. Road open late May–late October (weather dependent). | ~€30–40 per car including parking · Book at auronzo.info |
| Rifugio Auronzo (2,333 m) | Largest hut; most accessible; at road end with full facilities; best for families and day visitors. Starting point for the circuit hike. Panoramic terrace overlooking south faces. Open June–October. | ~€40–55/night · Book directly |
| Rifugio Lavaredo (2,344 m) | Small private hut at Forcella Lavaredo; 30 minutes from Rifugio Auronzo; at the base of Cima Piccola south face; starting point for Cima Grande Normal Route. Open June–September. | ~€35–50/night · Book directly |
| Rifugio Locatelli / Dreizinnenhütte (2,405 m) | The iconic north face viewpoint hut. SAC / CAI managed; 1.5 hrs from Rifugio Auronzo via Forcella Lavaredo. The definitive Tre Cime photograph position. Starting point for VF Innerkofler on Monte Paterno. Extremely busy; book well in advance. German spoken. Open July–September. | ~€45–60/night half board · Book months in advance |
| Bus 444 (Dobbiaco/Toblach) | Shuttle from Dobbiaco/Toblach train station to Rifugio Auronzo. Runs May–October. Advance booking required at tre-cime.bz/ticket. Journey ~50 minutes. Arrives on north side of massif — finest approach view. | ~€8–12 one-way · Book at tre-cime.bz/ticket |
| Bus 31 (Misurina) | DolomitiBus from Misurina-Genzianella stop to Rifugio Auronzo. No advance booking required. ~20 minutes. ~€4 one-way. | ~€4 one-way · No booking required |
Seasonal Planning
Best Time to Visit the Tre Cime
| Season | Window | Pros | Watch-outs |
|---|---|---|---|
| Late June – early July | Late June–early July | Relatively uncrowded; trails just clearing of snow; rifugi opening; snow patches on Forcella Lavaredo give beautiful contrast with limestone; long days | Toll road opens late May or June depending on snow; some trails still snowy — boot traction useful; mountain huts may not yet be fully staffed |
| July – August (Peak) | July–August | All rifugi fully open and staffed; buses running on full schedule; all routes accessible; classic Dolomite summer light | Most crowded period — hundreds of people on the circuit daily; Cima Grande Normal Route has queues; Rifugio Locatelli crowded at midday; Spigolo Giallo “dangerously overcrowded” on weekends; start before 7 AM |
| September ★ Best | September | Finest month: significantly fewer visitors; autumn light turns Dolomite limestone gold; stable weather; cool temperatures ideal for climbing; rifugi still open | Rifugi closing from mid-September; first autumn snowfall possible; earlier dark |
| Winter (Dec–May) | Oct–May | Ski mountaineering from Misurina (winter access on groomed tracks / snowshoe / snowcat); extraordinary winter atmosphere; no crowds | Toll road closed; rifugi closed; all trails require winter equipment; Comici north face in winter conditions is extreme (winter first ascent 1963 took 8 days) |
Equipment
Essential Gear by Activity
🍷 Circuit Hike
- Good hiking boots (ankle support; trail can be rocky)
- Waterproof jacket (afternoon storms can arrive fast)
- Layers (rifugio plateau at 2,400 m — cold in shade)
- Sunscreen & sunglasses (Dolomite limestone very bright)
- Water (1.5–2 litres; rifugi available)
- Cash euros for rifugi and buses
⛰ Cima Grande Normal Route
- Helmet — mandatory (rockfall constant)
- Rock shoes or approach shoes (II UIAA — boots not required in dry conditions)
- Harness + belay device + rope (30–40 m minimum)
- Slings and a few cams/wires for additional protection
- Gloves (shaded face, cool even in summer)
- Headlamp (pre-dawn approach)
🔌 VF Innerkofler (Monte Paterno)
- Headlamp — mandatory (600 m of WWI tunnels)
- Via ferrata set: Y-lanyard + D-ring clamp
- Helmet (rockfall from parties above)
- Mountain boots (long day; variable terrain)
- Warm jacket (tunnels cold; summit exposed)
- Gloves for the cables
⛰ Comici North Face
- Full rack: cams, wires, slings, quickdraws
- 60 m rope ×2 (half rope system recommended)
- Rock shoes (limestone face climbing)
- Warm layers (north face cold and shaded)
- Bivouac sack (commitment means possible overnight)
- Headlamp (approach in dark; possible bivouac)
- Current weather forecast (check evening before)
Risk & Preparedness
Difficulty & Safety Notes
A mountain for everyone — but crowds create specific hazards
- Rockfall on Cima Grande Normal Route: The south face is polished and heavily trafficked. Parties above dislodge rock — whether intentionally or not — onto parties below. Helmet mandatory from the approach. On busy days (July–August weekends), the density of parties creates sustained rockfall hazard throughout the route. Consider early starts (pre-dawn) or off-peak timing (September).
- Afternoon thunderstorms: The Dolomites produce severe afternoon thunderstorms with very little warning. The characteristic pattern: clear morning, clouds building from noon, storm by 2–3 PM. For any route on the peaks, summit by noon. Do not start the Cima Grande Normal Route after 9 AM in storm-risk conditions.
- Wet rock on the Normal Route: UIAA II on dry Dolomite limestone is accessible for most roped parties with basic climbing experience. The same route in rain or after rain becomes a much more serious proposition — smooth, polished, wet limestone is far harder than its nominal grade suggests.
- Comici North Face — no retreat: The overhanging structure of the north face means that once committed past the lower section, retreat by abseiling is not a viable option. Parties must be certain of their ability to complete the route before starting. Check the weather twice. Have an alpine start that guarantees summit before noon.
- Via Ferrata Innerkofler — length at altitude: The difficulty is moderate but the duration (5–7 hours) at altitude (up to 2,744 m) means that pace must be managed carefully. People have died on this route; clip in throughout. The headlamp in the tunnels is not optional — the natural light is insufficient.
- Crowd management on the circuit hike: The Giro delle Tre Cime is straightforward but congested. Start before 8 AM to have the best viewpoints with manageable crowds. On high-season summer weekends, the Forcella Lavaredo and Rifugio Locatelli areas can be overwhelmingly busy by mid-morning.
Guided Programs
Tre Cime Guide Services
IFMGA-certified guides based in Cortina d’Ampezzo and the Sexten valley are the local authorities on all Tre Cime routes — the Normal Routes, the Comici-Dimai, the Hasse-Brandler, and the Via Ferrata Innerkofler. They have current knowledge of face conditions, fixed gear status, and seasonal access details. The Cortina guide association has over a century of history on these peaks.
Guide Alpine Cortina →The guide school based in Sexten (Sesto) — the same village where the Innerkofler family lived — operates on the north side of the Tre Cime with the deepest local knowledge of the German-side approach via Dobbiaco and the north face routes. Bilingual (German/Italian) in keeping with the cultural border position.
Sexten Area Guides →Common Questions
Frequently Asked Questions About the Tre Cime
Live Conditions
Map of the Tre Cime & Live Weather
Summit location and live weather from Cima Grande di Lavaredo’s coordinates (46.617°N, 12.304°E). The map shows all three peaks, the three rifugi, and Misurina (toll road access point).
Cima Grande di Lavaredo — Summit Conditions
2,999 m / 9,839 ft · Tre Cime di Lavaredo · Live from summit coordinates
Planning Summary
At-a-Glance Planning Snapshot
| Peaks | Cima Grande (2,999 m) · Cima Ovest (2,973 m) · Cima Piccola (2,857 m) |
| Location | Sexten/Sesto Dolomites — border of South Tyrol & Belluno — UNESCO World Heritage 2009 |
| Language Border | Summit ridge = boundary between German South Tyrol and Italian Belluno |
| Circuit Hike | Giro delle Tre Cime: 10.8 km · 400 m · 3–4 hrs · T2–T3 · most famous Dolomite hike |
| Toll Road 2025 | Online reservation mandatory at auronzo.info · ~€30–40 · 12-hr time slot · 700 cars |
| Buses | Bus 444 from Dobbiaco (book at tre-cime.bz/ticket) · Bus 31 from Misurina (no booking) |
| Three Rifugi | Auronzo (2,333 m) · Lavaredo (2,344 m) · Locatelli/Dreizinnenhütte (2,405 m) |
| Cima Grande Normal Route | UIAA II · 200 m · South Face · 2.5 hrs from route base · helmet mandatory |
| Comici North Face | ED inf / UIAA VII · 550 m · one of Six Great North Faces · first ascent August 1933 |
| VF Innerkofler | B/C via ferrata · Monte Paterno · WWI tunnels (headlamp mandatory) · 5–7 hrs |
| First Ascents | Cima Grande: August 21, 1869 (Grohmann + Franz Innerkofler) · Cima Ovest: August 21, 1879 · Cima Piccola: July 25, 1881 |
| WWI | Front line 1915–1917 · Sepp Innerkofler killed Monte Paterno July 4, 1915 |
| Comici | North face 1933 · solo unroped 1937 · “drop of water” philosophy |
| Permit | None required for climbing |
| Best Season | September (quietest, finest light) or late June–early July (before peak crowds) |
