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  • Makalu Expedition Update 2026: The Fifth-Highest & One of the Hardest 8000ers

    Makalu, the four-sided pyramid of the world's fifth-highest mountain, in the Mahalangur Himalaya
    Makalu is 8,485 m (27,838 ft), the fifth-highest mountain on earth. Its four-sided pyramid, 19 km from Everest, is one of the hardest of the 8000ers to climb.
    Expedition Updates · Himalaya

    Makalu expedition update

    The fifth-highest mountain in the world, and one of the hardest. This page tracks why Makalu is a technical 8000er, the permit-and-difficulty mismatch, the French Couloir, the wild Barun approach, and a go or no-go checklist. A single-mountain page in our Expedition Updates directory. Elevations in metres (feet).

    Current status Technical 8000er 8,485 m (27,838 ft)

    Fifth by height, near the top for difficulty.

    Makalu is the world’s fifth-highest mountain, a clean four-sided pyramid 19 km from Everest, but its rank undersells it. Where Everest, Cho Oyu, and Manaslu are fixed-line climbs within reach of well-supported commercial teams, Makalu is a technical mountain, with a summit pyramid that demands real rock and ice climbing above 8,400 m and a summit rate near 30 percent.

    Its permit tells the opposite story: at around $3,000 for spring, a fifth of Everest’s $15,000, it looks like a bargain. It is not. On Makalu the barrier is not the price, it is the climbing. For the full route and cost detail, see our Makalu climb guide.

    8,485 m

    Summit (27,838 ft)

    Fifth-highest in the world, 19 km from Everest.

    ~30%

    Summit success

    One of the hardest of the 8000ers.

    Spring

    Main season

    And autumn; permit around $3,000.

    Makalu stands in the Mahalangur Himalaya, on the Nepal and China border in Makalu-Barun National Park, an isolated giant whose name comes from a Sanskrit word for the great black one. It was first climbed in 1955 by a French team on which every member reached the summit, and it has stayed a climber’s mountain ever since, far from the commercial crowds. This page owns the current picture and the honest difficulty. For the Northwest Ridge route detail, camps, gear, and cost breakdown, see our Makalu climb guide.

    Season and status

    A spring and autumn 8000er, for experienced teams.

    Makalu is climbed in spring, from April to May, and in a shorter autumn window in September and October, the same seasons as the other Himalayan 8000ers. It sees a small number of serious expeditions rather than the crowds of Everest, and in any given season the mountain may host only a handful of teams. Summit pushes hinge on catching a calm, clear weather window on an exposed, wind-scoured summit, and the short list of successful climbers each year reflects how often the mountain simply does not allow it.

    Fifth-highest, one of the hardest

    Why the height rank misleads.

    Height is the headline, but it is a poor guide to difficulty among the 8000ers. Makalu is far harder than Everest, Cho Oyu, or Manaslu, not because it is taller, it is not, but because its normal route keeps a genuine technical challenge to the very top. The upper mountain is a steep pyramid of rock and ice, graded around III to IV, climbed at an altitude where every move is slow and the margin for error is thin. That is why its summit rate sits near 30 percent while the commercial giants run far higher, and why Makalu is grouped with the hardest 8000ers rather than the accessible ones.

    The permit and difficulty mismatch

    Cheap to permit, hard to climb.

    Makalu against Everest, to show how permit price and rank hide the real difficulty. Figures for spring; confirm current permit costs.
    AspectMakaluEverest
    Height rankFifth in the worldFirst in the world
    Spring permitAround $3,000 (2025 revision)$15,000
    Summit successRoughly 30%Much higher, heavily supported
    Summit terrainTechnical: the French Couloir, Grade III to IVFixed-line snow and ice
    CrowdsRemote and uncommercialHeavily commercial
    Typical climberExperienced 8000er mountaineersA broad commercial range

    Under Nepal’s 2025 fee revision, the spring permit for Makalu is around $3,000, up from $1,800, and still a fraction of Everest’s $15,000. A climber comparing only the permit might conclude Makalu is the easier, cheaper option. The opposite is true. Everest’s higher price buys a fixed-line trade route and heavy commercial support; Makalu’s lower price comes with a technical summit, a remote approach, and far thinner infrastructure. Read the low permit as a warning, not an invitation.

    The French Couloir and summit pyramid

    Where the climb is won or lost.

    ⚠ The crux is at the very top, at the worst possible altitude

    The final barrier on the normal route is the French Couloir, a steep gully on the summit pyramid named for the 1955 first-ascent team, leading to a narrow, exposed summit ridge. It is real technical climbing at over 8,400 m, in extreme cold and wind, where a body is already failing from lack of oxygen. Many attempts end here, turned back by the difficulty, the weather, or the clock.

    This is what separates Makalu from the fixed-line 8000ers: the hardest climbing comes last, when climbers have least to give. It demands technical skill that carries over to the summit, not just endurance. Brush up on the systems in our fixed lines and jumars guide, though Makalu asks for more than a trade-route skill set. This page is educational and is not a substitute for experience.

    The wild Barun approach

    One of the last uncrowded expeditions in Nepal.

    Reaching Makalu is an expedition in itself. Base camp lies at the end of an 18 to 22 day trek through the Barun valley in Makalu-Barun National Park, one of the most isolated and unspoiled corners of Nepal, with camping, high passes, dense forest, and almost none of the lodges or crowds of the Everest and Annapurna trails. For many climbers the wildness of the approach is a large part of the appeal, a throwback to how Himalayan expeditions once felt. It also means self-sufficiency and time, well before the climbing begins.

    Who should attempt it

    An experienced climber’s 8000er.

    Makalu is not a first 8000er. It is usually climbed by mountaineers who have already succeeded on peaks such as Manaslu, Cho Oyu, Lhotse, or Everest, and it is widely used as Everest preparation and as an early objective in a fourteen-eight-thousanders project, because its technical terrain and extreme altitude build directly transferable skills. Arriving without that background is how climbers end up turning around low on the mountain, or worse. Weigh your experience honestly against our fitness standards, plan acclimatization with our acclimatization guide, and see where Makalu sits among the giants in our Nepal peaks gateway.

    Weather and timing

    A live look at the Mahalangur.

    Makalu’s summit is high enough to sit in the jet stream outside the short seasonal windows, and even in spring a summit push depends on a break in the wind. The live map below shows current conditions for the massif; a real attempt relies on expedition forecasting for every move above base camp.

    Live wind and weather for Makalu. Source: Windy.com. For how to read a mountain forecast, see our weather guide.
    Makalu, in the Mahalangur Himalaya on the Nepal-China border, 19 km southeast of Everest. Map: OpenStreetMap contributors.

    Go or no-go checklist

    Work through these before you commit.

    Before you go

    • Bring 8000er experience – Makalu expects a technical and high-altitude background, not a first attempt at extreme altitude.
    • Respect the summit pyramid – the French Couloir is real technical climbing above 8,400 m, and it decides most attempts.
    • Do not be lured by the permit – the low fee reflects demand, not difficulty; budget the full $25,000 to $45,000 expedition.
    • Plan for the approach – the Barun trek is 18 to 22 days of remote, self-sufficient travel before the climb.
    • Carry proper cover – helicopter evacuation and high-altitude rescue insurance are essential and often required.
    • Wait for the window – the summit is exposed to the jet stream; patience beats ambition.

    Makalu update FAQ

    The questions climbers ask most about the difficulty, the permit, and the approach.

    How hard is Makalu compared to other 8000ers?

    It is one of the hardest. Despite ranking fifth by height, Makalu is far more technical than the fixed-line commercial 8000ers such as Everest, Cho Oyu, or Manaslu. The summit pyramid involves real rock and ice climbing, around Grade III to IV, through the French Couloir and along an exposed summit ridge above 8,400 m, and summit success rates sit near 30 percent. It is usually attempted only by climbers who have already succeeded on easier 8000ers.

    What is the French Couloir on Makalu?

    The French Couloir is the steep, technical gully on Makalu’s summit pyramid, named after the 1955 French team that made the first ascent. It leads to a narrow, exposed summit ridge and is the crux of the normal route, demanding real technical climbing at extreme altitude in fierce cold and wind. It is the single feature that makes Makalu so much harder than its taller, more commercial neighbours, and it is where most summit attempts are decided.

    How much does the Makalu permit cost?

    Nepal’s climbing royalty for Makalu falls in the other-8000ers tier, around $3,000 for the spring season under the 2025 fee revision, up from $1,800, and a fraction of Everest’s $15,000. But the low permit price is misleading. The barrier to Makalu is not the cost, it is the difficulty, and a cheap permit does not make it an easier mountain. Fees change, so confirm the current figure with the Department of Tourism or your operator.

    How much does a Makalu expedition cost?

    A full guided Makalu expedition runs roughly $25,000 to $45,000, less than Everest but still a major undertaking, reflecting the remote approach, the technical support required, and the long duration on the mountain. Far fewer operators run Makalu than Everest, and the expeditions tend to be smaller and more serious. Our Makalu climb guide breaks the costs down in detail.

    What is the approach to Makalu like?

    Wild and remote. Makalu base camp is reached by an 18 to 22 day trek through the Barun valley in Makalu-Barun National Park, one of Nepal’s most isolated and unspoiled regions, a long way from the lodges and crowds of Everest or Annapurna. It is a genuine wilderness expedition rather than a teahouse trek, with camping, high passes, and minimal services, which is part of the mountain’s appeal to experienced climbers.

    When is the Makalu climbing season?

    Spring, from April to May, is the main climbing season, with a shorter autumn window in September and October. The seasons match the other Himalayan 8000ers, and summit pushes still depend on catching a calm, clear weather window on an exposed, wind-blasted summit. Winter ascents have been made, but they are an extreme undertaking reserved for elite alpinists.

    Who should attempt Makalu?

    Experienced high-altitude climbers, typically after peaks such as Manaslu, Cho Oyu, Lhotse, or Everest. Makalu is widely used as Everest preparation and as an early objective in a fourteen-eight-thousanders project, because its technical terrain and extreme altitude build skills that transfer directly to harder peaks. It is emphatically not a first 8000er, and arriving without a technical and high-altitude background is a recipe for turning back or worse.

    How high is Makalu and where is it?

    Makalu is 8,485 m (27,838 ft), the fifth-highest mountain in the world, in the Mahalangur Himalaya on the border of Nepal and China, 19 km southeast of Everest. It is a striking, isolated four-sided pyramid, first climbed in 1955 by a French team on which, remarkably, every member reached the summit, one of the most successful first ascents of any 8000er.

    📋 How this update is built

    This page is compiled by Travis Ludlow, Founder and Head of Research at Global Summit Guide, from Nepal Department of Tourism permit rules, the 2025 fee revision, and operator-published expedition records, with sources named below. It was reviewed for safety by Dawson Ludlow, our Climbing and Mountaineering Lead (Wilderness First Aid), whose highest first-hand summit is Kilimanjaro.

    Our team has not climbed Makalu, so we report official rules and expedition records rather than personal experience, and we review this page before each Himalayan season. Permit fees and rules change, so confirm the current royalty and requirements with the Department of Tourism or your operator before planning around them.

    Planning a Makalu expedition?

    Start with our Makalu climb guide for the full route, camps, and cost, compare the neighbours in our Everest and Lhotse updates, and vet specialist teams in the operator directory. Every expedition stages through Kathmandu, so for flights and hotels there, browse travel on Expedia.

    Disclosure: the Expedia link above is a sponsored affiliate link. We may earn a commission at no extra cost to you.

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  • The 14 peaks: complete list of all 8,000-meter mountains

    Mountain Lists / Eight-Thousanders

    The 14 peaks: complete list of all 8,000-meter mountains

    14
    Peaks above 8,000m
    8,849 m
    Everest high point
    8,027 m
    Shishapangma low
    < 50
    Climbers completed all 14
    Part of the Eight-Thousanders series This list summary supports our comprehensive 14 Eight-Thousanders complete guide covering routes, history, difficulty, and climbing logistics for every peak. Full guide →

    The 14 peaks — also called the eight-thousanders, the 14 summits, or simply “the 8000ers” — are the mountains on Earth above 8,000 meters in elevation. All 14 are in Asia, distributed across the Himalaya and Karakoram ranges through Nepal, Tibet (China), Pakistan, and the disputed Kashmir region. Climbing all 14 is one of the rarest achievements in mountaineering, accomplished by fewer than 50 climbers in history. This is the complete list with heights, locations, first ascents, and the relative difficulty climbers use to plan their progression. For detailed route guides on individual peaks, see our complete guide to every eight-thousander.

    The 14 peaks in order of height

    1

    Mount Everest

    Location: Nepal / Tibet · Range: Mahalangur Himalaya · First ascent: May 29, 1953 by Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay
    8,849 m
    29,032 ft

    The highest point on Earth and the most-climbed eight-thousander. Standard routes via the South Col (Nepal) and the North Ridge (Tibet) operate as large commercial expeditions during the spring season. See our Everest route comparison.

    2

    K2

    Location: Pakistan / China (Kashmir disputed) · Range: Karakoram · First ascent: July 31, 1954 by Achille Compagnoni and Lino Lacedelli
    8,611 m
    28,251 ft

    “The Savage Mountain.” Second-highest peak in the world but widely considered the hardest of the eight-thousanders. The Abruzzi Spur is the standard route. See our K2 climb guide and K2 route comparison.

    3

    Kangchenjunga

    Location: Nepal / India (Sikkim) · Range: Himalaya · First ascent: May 25, 1955 by George Band and Joe Brown
    8,586 m
    28,169 ft

    The “Five Treasures of the Snow.” Third-highest peak in the world. The first ascent team stopped just short of the true summit out of respect for local religious beliefs — a tradition climbers have continued for decades.

    4

    Lhotse

    Location: Nepal / Tibet · Range: Mahalangur Himalaya · First ascent: May 18, 1956 by Ernst Reiss and Fritz Luchsinger
    8,516 m
    27,940 ft

    Shares the lower portion of Everest’s South Col route — the two peaks are often climbed back-to-back by guided expeditions. See our Lhotse climb guide.

    5

    Makalu

    Location: Nepal / Tibet · Range: Mahalangur Himalaya · First ascent: May 15, 1955 by Lionel Terray and Jean Couzy
    8,485 m
    27,838 ft

    The distinctive four-sided pyramid east of Everest. Considered one of the more technically demanding eight-thousanders despite its standard route. Lower commercial traffic than the nearby Everest-Lhotse-Cho Oyu peaks. See our Makalu permits and cost guide.

    6

    Cho Oyu

    Location: Nepal / Tibet · Range: Mahalangur Himalaya · First ascent: October 19, 1954 by Herbert Tichy, Joseph Jöchler, Pasang Dawa Lama
    8,188 m
    26,864 ft

    Widely considered the easiest of the eight-thousanders and the standard “first 8000er” for climbers progressing toward Everest. The Tibetan north side is the commercial route, though Chinese-side access has varied with geopolitics. See our Cho Oyu climb guide.

    7

    Dhaulagiri I

    Location: Nepal · Range: Himalaya · First ascent: May 13, 1960 by Kurt Diemberger, Peter Diener, Nawang Dorje, Nima Dorje, Albin Schelbert, Ernst Forrer
    8,167 m
    26,795 ft

    “The White Mountain.” Famous for being the first peak ever supported by aerial deposits during a first ascent. Lower commercial popularity than the eastern Nepalese giants but a regular target for serious climbers. See our Dhaulagiri climb guide.

    8

    Manaslu

    Location: Nepal · Range: Himalaya · First ascent: May 9, 1956 by Toshio Imanishi and Gyalzen Norbu
    8,163 m
    26,781 ft

    “Mountain of the Spirit.” Has become the most popular alternative to Cho Oyu as a first eight-thousander since Chinese-side access tightened. The autumn season sees substantial commercial traffic on the standard northeast route.

    9

    Nanga Parbat

    Location: Pakistan · Range: Western Himalaya · First ascent: July 3, 1953 by Hermann Buhl (solo final push)
    8,126 m
    26,660 ft

    “The Killer Mountain.” Westernmost of the eight-thousanders and historically one of the deadliest. The Diamir face is the standard route. See our Nanga Parbat route comparison.

    10

    Annapurna I

    Location: Nepal · Range: Himalaya · First ascent: June 3, 1950 by Maurice Herzog and Louis Lachenal
    8,091 m
    26,545 ft

    The first eight-thousander ever climbed (in 1950) and the one with the highest death rate of all 14 peaks. The standard north face route is heavily exposed to serac fall. Annapurna remains feared even among elite high-altitude mountaineers.

    11

    Gasherbrum I (Hidden Peak)

    Location: Pakistan / China · Range: Karakoram · First ascent: July 5, 1958 by Andy Kauffman and Pete Schoening
    8,080 m
    26,509 ft

    The 11th eight-thousander and the highest peak in the Gasherbrum massif. Climbed via the Japanese Couloir on the southwest face. Often combined with Gasherbrum II as a Karakoram double-summit expedition.

    12

    Broad Peak

    Location: Pakistan / China · Range: Karakoram · First ascent: June 9, 1957 by Marcus Schmuck, Fritz Wintersteller, Kurt Diemberger, Hermann Buhl
    8,051 m
    26,414 ft

    Named for its expansive summit ridge. The standard west face route shares base camp with K2, allowing acclimatization climbs for K2 expeditions. Considered one of the more accessible Karakoram eight-thousanders.

    13

    Gasherbrum II

    Location: Pakistan / China · Range: Karakoram · First ascent: July 7, 1956 by Fritz Moravec, Hans Willenpart, Sepp Larch
    8,035 m
    26,362 ft

    The most-climbed Karakoram eight-thousander and considered the easiest of the four Pakistani 8000ers. Shares the Gasherbrum base camp with GI, making it a logical companion peak for stronger parties.

    14

    Shishapangma

    Location: Tibet (China) · Range: Himalaya · First ascent: May 2, 1964 by Xu Jing and Chinese team of 10
    8,027 m
    26,335 ft

    The 14th and lowest eight-thousander. The only one located entirely in Tibet (China) with no Nepal or Pakistan border. Was the last 8000m peak first-ascended due to Chinese restrictions on foreign climbers. Has a true summit and a slightly lower central summit, which has caused confusion about valid ascents.

    Key facts about the 14 peaks

    The big-picture stats

    All 14 peaks are in Asia. All 14 are in either the Himalaya or the Karakoram. The tallest is Everest at 8,849 m. The shortest is Shishapangma at 8,027 m. The difference between the tallest and shortest is just 822 m. Fewer than 50 climbers have completed all 14. The first to do so was Reinhold Messner in 1986.

    StatisticDetail
    Total number of 8000m peaks14
    TallestMount Everest (8,849 m)
    ShortestShishapangma (8,027 m)
    First climbedAnnapurna I (1950)
    Last first-ascendedShishapangma (1964)
    Highest death rateAnnapurna I
    Considered easiestCho Oyu (with current access limitations: Manaslu)
    Considered hardestK2, Annapurna I, Nanga Parbat (debated)
    First to climb all 14Reinhold Messner (1986)
    Fastest known time all 14Nirmal Purja (6 months, 6 days, 2019)
    Climbers completed all 14Fewer than 50

    Where the 14 peaks are by country

    CountryNumber of 8000ersWhich ones
    Nepal (entirely or partially)8Everest, Kangchenjunga, Lhotse, Makalu, Cho Oyu, Dhaulagiri I, Manaslu, Annapurna I
    Pakistan (entirely or partially)5K2, Nanga Parbat, Gasherbrum I, Broad Peak, Gasherbrum II
    China / Tibet (entirely or partially)9Everest, K2, Lhotse, Makalu, Cho Oyu, Shishapangma, Gasherbrum I, Broad Peak, Gasherbrum II
    India (Kangchenjunga only)1Kangchenjunga (Sikkim side)
    Entirely in one country5Nepal: Dhaulagiri, Manaslu, Annapurna; Pakistan: Nanga Parbat; Tibet: Shishapangma

    The political geography matters because climbing permits, costs, and logistics depend heavily on which country issues the permit. Nepal hosts the most accessible permit regime for foreign climbers, particularly for Everest, Lhotse, Manaslu, and Annapurna. Pakistan offers lower-cost permits for the Karakoram peaks but more complicated visa logistics. Tibet (China) periodically tightens or loosens access for foreign expeditions, with Cho Oyu and Shishapangma typically requiring more advance planning. The full Everest-region context is in our Everest route comparison, and the K2 cost framework is in our K2 climb guide.

    The 14 peaks by climbing difficulty

    The order of difficulty among the eight-thousanders is debated and depends heavily on the chosen route and season. A widely-accepted general ordering for the standard commercial routes, from most accessible to most difficult:

    TierPeakWhy
    Most accessibleCho OyuGentle glaciated slopes, well-established route
    AccessibleManasluStandard commercial route, autumn season
    AccessibleEverest (commercial)Highly resourced but altitude-driven challenge
    ModerateLhotse, Gasherbrum IISolid commercial routes, manageable technical difficulty
    Moderate to hardBroad Peak, DhaulagiriMore objective hazards, less infrastructure
    HardMakalu, Shishapangma, Gasherbrum IGreater technical and route-finding demands
    Very hardKangchenjunga, Nanga ParbatLong, complex routes; high objective danger
    HardestK2, Annapurna IExtreme technical difficulty + high death rate

    This ordering is a general framework, not a strict ranking. Individual seasons can completely change the relative difficulty — a heavy snow year on Annapurna creates much higher avalanche risk, while an unusually dry year on Cho Oyu can expose ice that adds technical difficulty. The cumulative difficulty across all 14 peaks is what makes the full completion such a rare achievement. The broader hardest-mountains context is in our 10 hardest mountains to climb and the death-rate framework is in our death rates by mountain analysis.

    Notable climbers of the 14 peaks

    The list of climbers who have completed all 14 eight-thousanders is short and historically significant:

    • Reinhold Messner (Italy, 1986) — first to complete all 14, and first to do so without supplemental oxygen.
    • Jerzy Kukuczka (Poland, 1987) — second to complete, multiple new routes and winter ascents.
    • Erhard Loretan (Switzerland, 1995) — third to complete, exclusively without supplemental oxygen.
    • Edurne Pasaban (Spain, 2010) — first woman to complete all 14 (verification debated for some ascents).
    • Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner (Austria, 2011) — first woman to complete all 14 without supplemental oxygen.
    • Nirmal “Nims” Purja (Nepal, 2019) — fastest known time, all 14 in 6 months and 6 days. Featured in the documentary “14 Peaks: Nothing Is Impossible.”
    • Kristin Harila (Norway, 2023) — broke Purja’s speed record, all 14 in 92 days.

    The 14 peaks completion list grows slowly. Of those who have attempted it, most expeditions end on the harder peaks — particularly K2, Annapurna, and Nanga Parbat. The combination of cost (potentially over $500,000 USD for a complete tour), time commitment (most completers take 7-15 years), and survival probability (multiple climbers have died on their last few peaks) keeps the achievement rare even as commercial expedition support has expanded. The framework for understanding this scale of objective is in our top 50 technical mountaineering objectives.

    The peaks that just miss the list

    Several mountains exceed 8,000 m in elevation but are not counted in the standard 14 because they are considered subsidiary summits of larger massifs rather than independent peaks. The most commonly discussed of these “near-misses”:

    • Yalung Kang (8,505 m) — western summit of Kangchenjunga.
    • Lhotse Middle (8,410 m) — middle summit of the Lhotse massif.
    • Lhotse Shar (8,383 m) — eastern summit of the Lhotse massif.
    • Kangchenjunga South (8,494 m) — south summit of Kangchenjunga.
    • Kangchenjunga Central (8,482 m) — central summit of Kangchenjunga.
    • Broad Peak Central (8,011 m) — central summit of Broad Peak.

    The line between “independent peak” and “subsidiary summit” depends on topographic prominence — the elevation a peak rises above the lowest col that connects it to a higher peak. The standard threshold for an independent eight-thousander is roughly 500 m of prominence, which excludes the subsidiary summits above. If you used a stricter prominence threshold, the list could be smaller; with a looser threshold, several subsidiary summits would qualify. The 14 peaks list reflects the most widely accepted convention.

    ★ Eight-Thousanders Master Guide

    Routes, history, and difficulty for every peak

    The complete deep guide to all 14 eight-thousanders: route comparisons, first-ascent history, climbing logistics, and the broader Himalaya and Karakoram context.

    Read the full guide →

    How climbers progress toward the eight-thousanders

    The 14 peaks are not entry-level objectives. The standard progression that climbers follow before attempting any eight-thousander typically takes 5-15 years and includes a sequence of progressively harder mountains. The general framework:

    1. Foundational glaciated peaks: Cascade volcanoes (Hood, Rainier), Mexican volcanoes (Pico de Orizaba, Iztaccíhuatl). Framework in our mountaineering for beginners guide.
    2. First 5,000-meter peak: Mount Elbrus or Cotopaxi as the introduction to high-altitude glaciated climbing.
    3. First 6,000-meter peak: Aconcagua or Denali as the next step. See our Aconcagua season guide.
    4. First 7,000-meter peak: typically Aconcagua followed by a Himalayan 7000m peak like Spantik, Khan Tengri, or Mount Manaslu’s lower trekking peaks.
    5. First 8,000-meter peak: usually Cho Oyu or Manaslu. The introduction to true Himalayan expedition climbing.
    6. Everest and beyond: the standard high-volume commercial objective, followed by individual eight-thousanders pursued one at a time based on personal goals.

    Climbers pursuing the full 14 typically have completed several eight-thousanders before formally committing to the all-14 goal. The cost framework, training timeline, and broader expedition planning context that supports this progression is in our full eight-thousanders guide, with the next-step framework in our intermediate climbing guide.

    The bottom line on the 14 peaks

    The 14 eight-thousanders represent the highest mountains on Earth and the highest tier of mountaineering objectives. All 14 are in Asia, distributed across the Himalaya and Karakoram, with Nepal hosting the largest share. The list has been climbed in its entirety by fewer than 50 people in human history, with the first complete ascent by Reinhost Messner in 1986 and the current speed record held by Kristin Harila at 92 days. For climbers building toward 8,000-meter objectives, the standard progression starts with smaller glaciated peaks, builds through 5,000 to 7,000 meter mountains, and graduates to Cho Oyu or Manaslu as the first true eight-thousander. The full route framework, expedition logistics, and historical context for each peak is in our complete eight-thousanders guide.

    Frequently asked questions

    What are the 14 peaks?

    The 14 peaks, also called the eight-thousanders or 14 summits, are the mountains on Earth above 8,000 meters (26,247 feet) in elevation. All 14 are located in the Himalaya and Karakoram ranges of Asia, distributed across Nepal, China (Tibet), Pakistan, and the disputed Kashmir region. The 14 peaks in order of height are: Mount Everest, K2, Kangchenjunga, Lhotse, Makalu, Cho Oyu, Dhaulagiri I, Manaslu, Nanga Parbat, Annapurna I, Gasherbrum I, Broad Peak, Gasherbrum II, and Shishapangma.

    How many 8000m peaks are there?

    There are exactly 14 mountains on Earth above 8,000 meters in elevation. The number is fixed because it depends on the definition of what counts as an independent peak, which is generally measured by topographic prominence. Mountains like Lhotse Middle (8,410 m) or Yalung Kang (8,505 m) exceed 8,000 m in height but are considered subsidiary summits of larger massifs (Lhotse and Kangchenjunga respectively) and are not counted in the standard list of 14.

    Who climbed all 14 eight-thousanders first?

    Reinhold Messner of Italy became the first person to climb all 14 eight-thousanders in 1986 when he summited Lhotse on October 16. Messner climbed all 14 peaks without supplemental oxygen, which remains a defining accomplishment in mountaineering history. The second person to complete the list was Jerzy Kukuczka of Poland in 1987. As of the most recent counts, fewer than 50 climbers have completed the 14 eight-thousanders. The fastest known time for completing all 14 is held by Nirmal Purja, who climbed all 14 in 6 months and 6 days in 2019.

    What is the 14th peak?

    Shishapangma at 8,027 meters (26,335 feet) is the 14th and lowest of the eight-thousanders. Located entirely in Tibet (China), Shishapangma is the only 8000-meter peak not partially in Nepal or Pakistan. It was the last 8000-meter peak to be first ascended, summited by a Chinese team led by Xu Jing in 1964. The mountain has a true main summit and a slightly lower central summit, which has caused historical confusion in determining true ascents of the peak.

    How hard are the 14 peaks to climb?

    The 14 peaks range from technically moderate to extreme depending on route and conditions. The easier eight-thousanders for guided commercial ascents include Cho Oyu, Manaslu, and the trade routes on Everest, Lhotse, and Dhaulagiri. The harder ones for technical difficulty and death rate include K2, Annapurna I, Nanga Parbat, and Kangchenjunga. Annapurna I has the highest death rate of any 8000m peak, while Everest has the largest number of total deaths due to the volume of climbers. All 14 are serious objectives that require multi-week expeditions, significant prior altitude experience, and substantial financial investment.

    Where are the 14 eight-thousanders located?

    All 14 eight-thousanders are located in two adjacent mountain systems in Asia: the Himalaya and the Karakoram. The Himalayan eight-thousanders include Everest, Kangchenjunga, Lhotse, Makalu, Cho Oyu, Dhaulagiri I, Manaslu, Nanga Parbat, Annapurna I, and Shishapangma, distributed across Nepal, Tibet (China), and the western Himalaya in Pakistan. The Karakoram eight-thousanders are K2, Gasherbrum I, Broad Peak, and Gasherbrum II, all located in northern Pakistan and the disputed Kashmir region. No 8000m peaks exist outside this region of Asia.

    How much does it cost to climb an 8000-meter peak?

    Costs for climbing 8000-meter peaks vary dramatically by mountain, country, and service level. Mount Everest from Nepal currently ranges from roughly $45,000 to $130,000 per climber depending on operator and oxygen plan. Less popular peaks like Cho Oyu, Manaslu, and the Pakistani eight-thousanders typically range from $15,000 to $40,000. Permit fees alone range from $250 (Pakistan summer season) to over $11,000 (Everest South Side). Add international flights, equipment, training, and insurance for a full expedition budget.

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