Everest: South Col vs North Col
Two routes to 8,849m. The real differences between the Nepal and Tibet approaches — permit costs, route character, the Icefall, the Northeast Ridge, and which one to choose.
Everest has two standard routes, and the choice between them shapes the entire expedition experience. The South Col via Nepal and the North Col via Tibet are not simply different paths to the same place — they carry different logistics, different objective hazards, and different technical demands. The Icefall versus the Northeast Ridge steps. Nepal infrastructure versus Tibet access. This comparison gives you the information to choose clearly.
Quick Comparison: Route at a Glance
The South Col is the more popular guided route globally, with a larger body of operator experience and a higher overall success rate. The North Col eliminates the Icefall but introduces more technical terrain above 8,500m. Neither is simply easier — they are different mountains in practice.
Route by Route
South Col Route
Ascends through the Western Cwm to the Lhotse Face, traverses to the South Col (7,906m), then follows the Southeast Ridge and Hillary Step to the summit. Fixed lines and guided infrastructure are well-established. The Khumbu Icefall must be crossed multiple times and represents the route’s most significant uncontrollable hazard.
North Col Route
Approaches via Rongbuk Glacier to Advanced Base Camp (6,400m), ascends to the North Col (7,162m), then follows the Northeast Ridge to the summit. The Three Steps above 8,500m — rocky bands requiring technical climbing in extreme conditions — are the route’s crux and are significantly more demanding than the South Col’s upper couloir.
Which Everest route is right for your expedition?
You want the most established guided infrastructure, accept the Icefall as part of the Nepal experience, prioritise a higher statistical success rate, and your operator has deep South Col history.
You want to eliminate the Icefall as a variable, are a stronger technical climber comfortable on the Northeast Ridge, and prefer a less commercially congested experience.
Choosing the Right Everest Operator
Route choice is only one decision. Guide service, timing, and permit logistics are equally critical. Research operators carefully and book early for the best dates.