Everest South Col vs North Ridge: which route should you climb?
Mount Everest has two standard commercial routes: the South Col from Nepal (the original first-ascent route used by Hillary and Tenzing in 1953) and the North Ridge from Tibet (first climbed by a Chinese expedition in 1960). The two routes converge near the summit but follow fundamentally different paths up the mountain — different base camps, different objective hazards, different infrastructure, and meaningfully different costs. This guide breaks down the head-to-head comparison: difficulty, success rates, costs, weather, and how to choose between them. For broader route context see our Everest South Col vs North Ridge master page and our Everest route comparison framework.
The head-to-head at a glance
South Col (Nepal)
North Ridge (Tibet)
South Col for infrastructure. North Ridge for cost savings and fewer crowds.
The South Col is the dominant commercial route with more operators, better rescue infrastructure, and the famous Khumbu Icefall as both its primary hazard and its iconic image. The North Ridge offers meaningful cost savings (10-30% cheaper), vehicle access to base camp instead of a 12-day trek, fewer crowds at the high camps, but more technical climbing on the upper mountain and limited rescue capability. Most modern climbers choose the South Col.
Why Everest has two routes a brief history
For the first three decades of Everest attempts (1921-1953), Tibet was the only access. The early British expeditions including the famous 1924 attempt with George Mallory and Andrew Irvine all approached from the north via Tibet because Nepal was closed to foreign visitors. When Nepal opened in 1949 and Tibet was closed by China in 1950, the South Col route became the only practical option. The 1953 first ascent by Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay used the South Col approach, establishing it as the standard route.
The North Ridge was finally climbed in 1960 by a Chinese expedition (the ascent was disputed for decades but is now widely accepted) and re-opened to international climbing in the 1980s. Modern commercial Everest expeditions began offering both routes in the 1990s, with the South Col remaining dominant due to better-developed infrastructure in Nepal and easier permit access. The full historical context is in our Everest route comparison framework.
The South Col route day by day character
The South Col route is the iconic Everest experience. The journey starts with a flight to Lukla in Nepal, followed by a 10-12 day trek through Sherpa villages including Namche Bazaar, Tengboche Monastery, and Dingboche, reaching Everest Base Camp at 5,364 m. The trek itself is a meaningful acclimatization process and one of the most famous trekking routes in the world.
| Section | Elevation | Character |
|---|---|---|
| Base Camp | 5,364 m | Tent city on the Khumbu Glacier |
| Khumbu Icefall | 5,400-5,900 m | ~3-7 hour passage through serac field |
| Camp 1 | 6,065 m | Above the icefall in the Western Cwm |
| Western Cwm | 6,000-6,400 m | “Valley of Silence” — flat glacial valley |
| Camp 2 (Advanced BC) | 6,400 m | Main acclimatization and staging camp |
| Lhotse Face | 6,800-7,500 m | Steep ice face with fixed ropes |
| Camp 3 | 7,200 m | Mid-face camp on the Lhotse Face |
| Yellow Band | 7,500-7,800 m | Limestone band traverse |
| Camp 4 (South Col) | 7,920 m | High camp before summit push |
| The Balcony | 8,400 m | Resting platform on summit day |
| South Summit | 8,749 m | False summit before the true peak |
| Hillary Step | ~8,790 m | Famous rock step (changed after 2015 earthquake) |
| Summit | 8,849 m | The highest point on Earth |
The signature features of the South Col route are the Khumbu Icefall (the single most dangerous section), the Western Cwm with its dramatic Lhotse Face headwall, and the long summit ridge from the South Col through the Balcony, South Summit, and Hillary Step to the top. The total elapsed time from arriving at Base Camp to the summit is typically 6-8 weeks including multiple acclimatization rotations.
The Khumbu Icefall is the defining feature climbers describe — moving through it in pre-dawn darkness with seracs the size of houses above you and the glacier creaking under your feet. Most climbers traverse the icefall 6-8 times during a single expedition, each crossing a calculated bet that the ice will hold for the time it takes to pass through.
The North Ridge route day by day character
The North Ridge approach is dramatically different from the South Col. Climbers fly to Lhasa or Kathmandu (sometimes combining both), then drive across the Tibetan plateau to Base Camp at 5,150 m. There is no trek — vehicles drive directly to base camp. The acclimatization happens through several days at base camp and rotations up to Advanced Base Camp at 6,400 m.
| Section | Elevation | Character |
|---|---|---|
| Base Camp | 5,150 m | Drive-in tent camp on Rongbuk Glacier |
| Interim Camp | 5,800 m | Acclimatization stop |
| Advanced Base Camp | 6,400 m | Main staging camp |
| North Col Wall | 6,400-7,020 m | Steep glaciated face with fixed ropes |
| Camp 1 (North Col) | 7,020 m | Saddle between Everest and Changtse |
| Camp 2 | 7,500 m | On the North Ridge proper |
| Camp 3 | 7,900 m | High camp before summit push |
| Camp 4 (high camp) | 8,300 m | Final high camp for summit attempt |
| First Step | ~8,564 m | Rock step on summit ridge |
| Second Step | ~8,610 m | The famous step — ladder installed 1975 |
| Third Step | ~8,710 m | Final rock obstacle before summit pyramid |
| Summit | 8,849 m | The highest point on Earth |
The signature features of the North Ridge route are the long summit-day traverse from the high camp through the three Steps, the more exposed terrain on the upper mountain, and the historically significant Mallory route that early British expeditions attempted. The Second Step has been equipped with a fixed Chinese ladder since 1975 — without this, the step would be a class 5.7+ rock climb at 8,610 m.
The key differences side by side
| Dimension | South Col (Nepal) | North Ridge (Tibet) |
|---|---|---|
| Approach | 10-12 day trek through Khumbu | Vehicle drive across Tibetan plateau |
| Base camp altitude | 5,364 m | 5,150 m |
| Number of high camps | 4 (BC, C1, C2, C3, C4) | 4 (BC, ABC, C1, C2, C3) |
| Highest camp before summit | South Col (7,920 m) | High camp (8,300 m) |
| Summit day elevation gain | ~930 m (7,920 → 8,849) | ~550 m (8,300 → 8,849) |
| Primary objective hazard | Khumbu Icefall serac fall | Cold + technical steps |
| Technical climbing difficulty | Limited (icefall + Lhotse Face) | More sustained (Steps + ridge) |
| Cold exposure | Moderate (Nepal weather) | Severe (Tibetan plateau) |
| Wind exposure | Moderate | Severe (jet stream interaction) |
| Commercial operators | ~30-40 active | ~10-15 active |
| Crowding on summit day | Often very crowded | Less crowded |
| Rescue infrastructure | Helicopter to ~7,000 m | Limited helicopter access |
| Permit complexity | Standard Nepal process | Complex Chinese permits |
| Political risk | Stable | Periodic closures by China |
| Famous deaths / disasters | 1996, 2014, 2015 disasters | 1924 Mallory/Irvine, 1996 north side |
The South Col concentrates objective hazards in the lower mountain (Khumbu Icefall) and shifts to relatively safer terrain higher up. The North Ridge has fewer objective hazards in the lower mountain but more sustained technical climbing and severe cold on the upper mountain. This produces different decision-making patterns: South Col deaths often happen during summit-day exhaustion on the descent, while North Ridge deaths often happen on the upper mountain Steps when climbers cannot complete the long summit-day traverse.
Cost comparison honest numbers
| Cost category | South Col (Nepal) | North Ridge (Tibet) |
|---|---|---|
| Climbing permit | $11,000 (Nepal royalty) | $8,000-12,000 (China) |
| Operator fee (budget) | $35,000-45,000 | $30,000-40,000 |
| Operator fee (mid-range) | $50,000-70,000 | $40,000-50,000 |
| Operator fee (luxury) | $80,000-130,000+ | $55,000-80,000 |
| Sherpa climber (1:1 ratio) | $10,000-15,000 extra | Included or $5,000-10,000 |
| Oxygen (bottles) | Included in operator fee | Included in operator fee |
| Helicopter access (start) | $2,000-5,000 (optional) | N/A (drive-in) |
| Gear (if needed) | $8,000-15,000 | $8,000-15,000 |
| International flights | $1,500-3,500 | $1,500-3,500 |
| Total typical cost | $45,000-100,000+ | $35,000-60,000 |
The North Ridge is meaningfully cheaper than the South Col, typically by 10-30%. The price difference reflects three main factors: lower commercial competition on the North side (fewer operators bidding against each other), simpler base camp logistics with vehicle access, and historically lower-cost Sherpa support on the Chinese side. The full Everest cost framework is in our cost to climb Everest guide.
Success rates honest data
Modern Everest success rates on both routes have improved dramatically from the historical baseline due to better forecasting, more reliable oxygen systems, and Sherpa-supported fixed-rope infrastructure. Current commercial expedition success rates:
- South Col guided commercial expeditions: approximately 55-70% summit success rate in good weather seasons, 30-50% in difficult seasons. The 2019 traffic jam season produced notably lower rates due to summit-day crowding.
- North Ridge guided commercial expeditions: approximately 50-65% summit success rate in good weather seasons. The lower numbers reflect harsher weather windows and the longer summit-day traverse rather than fundamentally lower commercial standards.
- Both routes — bad weather seasons: can drop to 20-30% success when weather windows are limited or operators turn back groups for safety.
The single biggest determinant of summit success on either route is the weather window, not the route choice. Climbers who arrive during a season with a multi-day stable window have dramatically higher success rates than climbers in a season with tight or broken windows. Operator quality (Sherpa team experience, fixed-rope reliability, decision-making) is the second biggest factor.
Safety comparison empirical fatalities
Mount Everest has approximately 340 total deaths across all routes since 1921. The deaths are distributed across both standard routes roughly proportionally to climber numbers — both routes are extremely dangerous. The per-climber fatality rate on the modern commercial routes is approximately 1 percent, meaning roughly 1 in 100 climbers who attempts the summit dies on the mountain. The empirical death-rate framework is in our most dangerous mountains analysis.
Where climbers die differs meaningfully between the routes:
South Col primary fatality patterns
- Khumbu Icefall: serac collapse and avalanche. The 2014 Khumbu Icefall avalanche killed 16 Sherpas in a single event.
- Death Zone exhaustion: climbers running out of energy or oxygen on the long descent from the South Summit.
- Summit-day storms: the 1996 disaster (8 deaths) involved climbers caught in an afternoon storm on the upper mountain.
- Avalanche on the upper mountain: the 2015 earthquake-triggered avalanche killed 22 at Base Camp.
North Ridge primary fatality patterns
- Cold exposure: Tibetan plateau winds and severe cold cause frostbite and hypothermia at higher rates than the South side.
- Long summit-day traverse: climbers running out of time or energy on the extended ridge traverse.
- The Steps: exhaustion-related falls on the technical sections at extreme altitude.
- Historical context: the 1924 Mallory/Irvine deaths, the 1996 disaster also affected the north side, and various smaller-scale incidents throughout history.
Who should choose which route honest assessment
Choose South Col if…
— You want the iconic Hillary/Tenzing route
— You value the Khumbu trek as part of the experience
— You want the broadest operator selection
— You want maximum rescue infrastructure
— You prefer better-developed commercial support
— Budget is less of a constraint
Choose North Ridge if…
— Budget is a meaningful constraint
— You want fewer crowds on summit day
— You want vehicle access (no trek)
— You have stronger technical climbing skills
— You value the historical Mallory route
— You accept limited rescue infrastructure
Beyond the two standard routes briefly
Everest has many additional routes beyond the two commercial standards, almost all of which are technical alpine objectives climbed by elite teams rather than commercial expeditions:
- West Ridge — first climbed 1963 by an American expedition. Significantly harder than either standard route.
- Northeast Ridge (Mallory route variant) — the route Mallory and Irvine attempted in 1924, completed later by various parties.
- South Pillar — Polish-style technical route on the south face.
- North Face direct lines — multiple variants climbed by Japanese, Swiss, and other expeditions.
- Kangshung Face (East Face) — the most remote face, technically demanding and rarely attempted.
For commercial climbers, the South Col and North Ridge remain the only practical options. Everything else is in the realm of elite alpine mountaineering. The broader context is in our Everest route comparison framework.
Seasonal patterns when to climb
| Season | Months | South Col | North Ridge |
|---|---|---|---|
| Spring (primary) | April-May | Standard season | Standard season |
| Pre-monsoon | Late May | Most summit days happen here | Most summit days happen here |
| Monsoon | June-September | Not climbed | Not climbed |
| Autumn (secondary) | September-October | Rare attempts | Rare attempts |
| Winter | December-February | Extreme – rarely attempted | Extreme – rarely attempted |
Both routes use the same primary climbing season — spring/pre-monsoon (April-late May). The peak summit window is typically May 15 to May 30. Both sides receive jet stream interference outside this window, making summit attempts impossible. Some operators offer autumn (post-monsoon) attempts but success rates are much lower due to colder conditions and shorter windows.
The complete Everest climbing framework
Route comparisons, costs, seasonal patterns, and the broader Everest expedition framework.
Master comparison →The bottom line on South Col vs North Ridge
The South Col from Nepal and the North Ridge from Tibet are the two standard commercial routes on Mount Everest, both of which converge near the summit but take fundamentally different paths up the mountain. The South Col is the dominant commercial route with better infrastructure, more operators, the iconic Khumbu Icefall, and the famous Hillary/Tenzing first-ascent legacy — but costs typically run $45,000-100,000+. The North Ridge offers meaningful cost savings (10-30% cheaper at $35,000-60,000), vehicle access to base camp, fewer crowds, and the historical Mallory route — but accepts more technical upper-mountain climbing, harsher cold, and limited rescue infrastructure. Success rates are similar between the two routes (55-70% on good seasons), and the per-climber fatality rate is approximately 1% on both. Most modern climbers choose the South Col for its commercial infrastructure; climbers with budget constraints or who value smaller crowds increasingly choose the North Ridge. The full framework is in our Everest South Col vs North Ridge master comparison, with broader route context in our Everest route framework.
Frequently asked questions
What is the difference between the South Col and North Ridge routes on Everest?
The South Col route ascends Mount Everest from Nepal via the Khumbu Icefall, Western Cwm, Lhotse Face, and the South Col before the final summit ridge. The North Ridge route ascends from Tibet (China) via the East Rongbuk Glacier, the North Col, and the North Face before the summit ridge. The two routes converge near the summit but take fundamentally different paths up the mountain. The South Col is the original first-ascent route used by Hillary and Tenzing in 1953 and is the more commercially developed route. The North Ridge was first climbed in 1960 by a Chinese expedition and has historically seen lower climber numbers.
Which Everest route is easier?
The South Col route is generally considered slightly easier and is the more popular commercial route, primarily because of better-developed infrastructure, more guide services, and more rescue capability. However, both routes are extremely difficult and dangerous. The North Ridge has fewer objective hazards in the lower mountain (no Khumbu Icefall) but is longer, colder, and has more exposed terrain on the upper mountain including the famous First, Second, and Third Steps. Most modern Everest climbers choose the South Col for its more developed commercial support.
What is the North Col on Everest?
The North Col is a saddle at approximately 7,020 meters (23,031 feet) between Mount Everest and Changtse, a satellite peak on the Tibetan side. The North Col serves as the location for Camp 1 on the North Ridge route and is reached by climbing the steep North Col Wall from Advanced Base Camp at 6,400 m. The North Col was the gateway for early 20th century British Everest expeditions including the 1924 expedition with Mallory and Irvine. The col itself is heavily glaciated and requires fixed-rope ascent for most climbers.
What is the Khumbu Icefall?
The Khumbu Icefall is a section of the Khumbu Glacier between Base Camp at 5,364 meters and Camp 1 at 6,065 meters on the South Col route. The icefall is a chaotic field of seracs, crevasses, and ice towers that shifts daily as the glacier moves downhill. The Khumbu Icefall is the most dangerous section of the standard Everest route, having killed climbers including 16 Sherpas in the 2014 avalanche disaster. Ladders and fixed ropes are installed each season by Icefall Doctors to make passage possible, but the route remains hazardous throughout each climbing season.
Which Everest route has a higher success rate?
Both routes have similar overall success rates in the modern commercial era, typically 50 to 70 percent on a given season for guided climbers in good weather windows. The South Col has slightly higher success rates due to better infrastructure and more reliable weather windows. The North Ridge has lower numbers of attempts but proportionally similar success rates. Success rates are heavily influenced by weather, operator quality, individual climber fitness, and acclimatization rather than the route itself.
Which Everest route is cheaper?
The North Ridge route from Tibet is generally cheaper than the South Col route from Nepal by approximately 10 to 30 percent. Costs for the North Ridge typically range from 35,000 to 60,000 USD compared to 45,000 to 100,000+ USD for the South Col. The price difference primarily reflects lower commercial competition on the North side (fewer operators competing), simpler logistics with vehicle access to base camp rather than helicopter or trek, and historically lower permit costs from China. However, China has periodically restricted access to the North side which can disrupt expeditions.
Which Everest route is more dangerous?
Both routes are extremely dangerous. The South Col route concentrates most fatalities in the Khumbu Icefall (avalanche and serac collapse risk) and the Death Zone above the South Col on summit day. The North Ridge concentrates fatalities on the upper mountain steps, the long summit-day traverse, and exposure to severe cold on the more weather-exposed north face. The historical death rate is approximately 1 percent per climber on both routes in the modern era. Total deaths are higher on the South Col simply because more climbers attempt it, not because the per-climber risk is higher.
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